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I can tell u going from a fsgtb3 its night and day u can dial ur radio in to a precise liking to ur driving styles
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Until you actually use a higher end radio you won't know. I used to race way back when a $125 radio was pretty high end and nothing was going to prove better. I got back into it about 2 years ago and bought a $130 radio thinking it would be the same deal. I had all the right equipment in the car but then I'd be driving my but off only to have the radio brown out and the car would either veer off to the side or stop altogether, or my favorite... Just take off like a bat out of hell. This happened on all 3 of my cars and the only common component was the radio/rx. I bought glitch busters $30 more money out of my pocket and though the frequency and duration was less, brown outs would still occur. I switched ESC brands and it helped quite a bit but still it would occur. So I said screw it and bought an MT-4 and all I was expecting and hoping for was for the brown outs to cease.
Let me tell you, I did not expect the noticeable decrease in response time. Every input was noticeably more precise and instant. I never expected to see much difference, but boy did I. The $400+ radios do offer a slight improvement in response time but nothing you'd notice over the $200-$250 radios. Where you benefit is in the advanced features, and as with anything, the more you spend the more bells and whistles. I find the 4PLs and the MT-4/4s to offer more than enough in the way of highly advanced features and crisp response, but after finally moving away from Futaba, I have to give the nod to the MT-4/4s simply because the receivers are considerably smaller and the attention to the little details is just that much better from Sanwa. |
I'm looking for some advice. I was running my b4.2 last night and as the night progressed I had to increasingly tighten my slipper. I figured it was getting glazed and I'd take care of it today. So I cleaned it up and that didn't fix the problem, so then I installed all new pads and parts on the slipper. Even if I tighten the slipper all the way down, it still slips. (Doing the hold the real wheels method, the front won't come up at all).
I checked the Diff (without tearing it down) and it seems ok. Doing the test of holding one wheel plus the spur (with the slipper tightned down fully), there's no slippage. I even tried tightening the diff almost all the way just as a test - and it still slips. (and the noise is consistent with slipper noise rather than diff noise as near as I can tell). I could obviously rebuild the diff - but since it's not slipping that doesn't seem it would be the problem. Any ideas on what else I could check? |
Originally Posted by rtemske
(Post 13377668)
I'm looking for some advice. I was running my b4.2 last night and as the night progressed I had to increasingly tighten my slipper. I figured it was getting glazed and I'd take care of it today. So I cleaned it up and that didn't fix the problem, so then I installed all new pads and parts on the slipper. Even if I tighten the slipper all the way down, it still slips. (Doing the hold the real wheels method, the front won't come up at all).
I checked the Diff (without tearing it down) and it seems ok. Doing the test of holding one wheel plus the spur (with the slipper tightned down fully), there's no slippage. I even tried tightening the diff almost all the way just as a test - and it still slips. (and the noise is consistent with slipper noise rather than diff noise as near as I can tell). I could obviously rebuild the diff - but since it's not slipping that doesn't seem it would be the problem. Any ideas on what else I could check? |
Sorry, guess I didn't add enough detail. The motor is spinning fine and the spur gear is spinning (it's not a loose pinion or mesh issue between pinion and spur). It's that while the spur gear is spinning away, the power isn't making it effectively to the rear wheels. (It does move for sure, but slips way too easily so doesn't have the strength for the bigger jumps, etc.)
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Originally Posted by rtemske
(Post 13377799)
Sorry, guess I didn't add enough detail. The motor is spinning fine and the spur gear is spinning (it's not a loose pinion or mesh issue between pinion and spur). It's that while the spur gear is spinning away, the power isn't making it effectively to the rear wheels. (It does move for sure, but slips way too easily so doesn't have the strength for the bigger jumps, etc.)
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Originally Posted by the incubus
(Post 13369355)
Until you actually use a higher end radio you won't know. I used to race way back when a $125 radio was pretty high end and nothing was going to prove better. I got back into it about 2 years ago and bought a $130 radio thinking it would be the same deal. I had all the right equipment in the car but then I'd be driving my but off only to have the radio brown out and the car would either veer off to the side or stop altogether, or my favorite... Just take off like a bat out of hell. This happened on all 3 of my cars and the only common component was the radio/rx. I bought glitch busters $30 more money out of my pocket and though the frequency and duration was less, brown outs would still occur. I switched ESC brands and it helped quite a bit but still it would occur. So I said screw it and bought an MT-4 and all I was expecting and hoping for was for the brown outs to cease.
Let me tell you, I did not expect the noticeable decrease in response time. Every input was noticeably more precise and instant. I never expected to see much difference, but boy did I. The $400+ radios do offer a slight improvement in response time but nothing you'd notice over the $200-$250 radios. Where you benefit is in the advanced features, and as with anything, the more you spend the more bells and whistles. I find the 4PLs and the MT-4/4s to offer more than enough in the way of highly advanced features and crisp response, but after finally moving away from Futaba, I have to give the nod to the MT-4/4s simply because the receivers are considerably smaller and the attention to the little details is just that much better from Sanwa. Has anyone here used the temperature telemetry before and did you findit effective? |
Is there a part number for the tiny screws that keep the hinge pins from sliding out?
Is it 21130? Thanks. |
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Ok thanks!
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Hideeho
DO NOT use aluminum screws (even though they are pretty & shiney). The aluminum will chip & allow the pin to fall out (usually on your best run of the day :rolleyes:). |
Those of you with C4.2 experience I need help with gearing. I currently just picked up a C4.2 but have been running a B4.2 in stock blinky mode. When moving over to the C4.2 does the gearing stay close to the same?
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Originally Posted by Jade67
(Post 13416006)
Those of you with C4.2 experience I need help with gearing. I currently just picked up a C4.2 but have been running a B4.2 in stock blinky mode. When moving over to the C4.2 does the gearing stay close to the same?
Spur Gear x Pinion Gear ___________________ Internal Drive Ratio Im not sure what the internal ratios are between the B4.2 diff and the C4.2 diff |
Hey would a sidewinder 3800kv with the castle esc work as a good motor for this, it kills in my blitz but i was just wondering
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