Leave the front alone. Yes, you need the right tires, but even with the right tires the kit setup will push on high bite clay tracks.

For indoor clay the trick is loosening the rear end by flattening out the roll. The hot combo on this car was to shave the rear u-brace and run the inner ballstud with no washers or maybe 1mm and then use the "C-hub" on the factory team hubs.

Try this setup, which includes what I said above: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...Hobby20130519/

You won't have problems with push with this setup and the right tires.

thanks guys

Does anyone have a good esc/gearing setup for the LRP SXX v2 Competition with a 13.5?

Thanks.

Presume shaving the brace level with the rest of the "U" right?

the above setup is actually my home track.

I'm switching this up to mod and using the avid setup, thoughts on gearing my 8.5? I think I only have the 81t spur or the smaller 72t. Thoughts?


momo

I think I run 22t pinion with my 8.5 the stock spur, think its 81

I run on a medium(ish) indoor clay track without a long straight. Was running an 8.5 and the power wasn't hard to handle, but I rarely mashed the throttle. Going to drop to a 10.5 and wanted to get a suggestion for a good ball park pinion to start with running a 81 spur. Thanks!

Go up 3 teeth on the pinion to what you had previously.

Hey guys, wondering if you could give me some insight on an odd problem I'm having with a B4.2 roller I recently bought. The right rear arm/wheel seems to be stuck about half an inch higher than the left when the car's on the stand; either the shock shaft is shorter, or it isn't coming out as far for some reason. I took the cap of the shock in question off and it looks normal, but I haven't completely disassembled it.

Disconnect the shocks...does the suspension then have full travel? If so I'd bet you have a bent shock shaft.

Most likely on the shorter shock side u have some limiter washers stuck inside shock body from previous rebuild

Can I get those out by taking the bottom cap off, or do I have to disassemble the entire shock? And wouldn't a bent shaft bind at both ends of travel?

Well it cant hurt to make sure each shock is built correctly. A bent shock shock shaft depending where it was bent could only bind one way.

I'm also thinking mismatched number of limiters in the shocks.

That could be a few things, bent shock shaft, too many limiters, heck even bent hinge pin. Something seems bound up for sure!

The hinge pins look OK to me, and the arms are moving freely. I can plainly see the difference in length between the shocks themselves, so I'll have to start with that. How many limiters should be in there?