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Old 12-05-2013 | 05:57 AM
  #11596  
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Originally Posted by 2-shot
Is there a good way, or a good tool to use for rolling them off the ball stud? When I changed out the stock ball cups, I used a little metal tool that came with the kit. Not sure what the tool is actually used for, but it worked pretty good to take the stock ball cups off the ball studs.

Maybe a really thin set of needle nose pliers?

Thanks for your help guys, I appreciate it!
This set from Sears is a lifesaver for small RC uses!!!

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-...6&blockType=G6
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Old 12-05-2013 | 06:17 AM
  #11597  
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Originally Posted by Speed Freak RC
I am a stock racer. Reading about the wheel questions makes me wonder about running B44 front wheels on the rear of my 2wd. I would imagine I would have to run the wider SC10 hex's to get the width back right, but it would mean less rotating mass. Just not sure if it would give up too much traction. If you look at 1/8th scale though, they run the same wheels front and rear.
thats a legality question, if you dont mind doing something roar illegal then go for it, id imagine id be best on a higher bite surface than a loose one, also you can just shim it a mm or 2 but not much more or youll loose a wheel hex, dont know how wide 4wd tires are compared to the 2wd
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Old 12-05-2013 | 06:29 AM
  #11598  
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We could care less about ROAR around here.
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Old 12-05-2013 | 07:00 AM
  #11599  
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I can't believe some of the stuff I'm reading here. Lol.
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Old 12-05-2013 | 07:20 AM
  #11600  
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Originally Posted by Speed Freak RC
I am a stock racer. Reading about the wheel questions makes me wonder about running B44 front wheels on the rear of my 2wd. I would imagine I would have to run the wider SC10 hex's to get the width back right, but it would mean less rotating mass. Just not sure if it would give up too much traction. If you look at 1/8th scale though, they run the same wheels front and rear.
Yes but 1/8th scale buggies are 4wd so they have the added traction of the front wheel drive. I assure you if you ran 4wd fronts on the rear of a b4 you will see a decrease in traction.
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Old 12-05-2013 | 07:59 AM
  #11601  
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guys that are running your eletronics inline with a shorty are you using the C hub or an A hub? shaved brace?
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Old 12-05-2013 | 08:01 AM
  #11602  
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Originally Posted by CHIZZLE
I can't believe some of the stuff I'm reading here. Lol.
+1
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Old 12-05-2013 | 08:15 AM
  #11603  
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Hey guys

is it still "worth it" to buy the B4.2? I´ve heard rumours about the B5 being available in january14. Does anyone have any more Infos/rumours?
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Old 12-05-2013 | 08:20 AM
  #11604  
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Originally Posted by BLKHAWK
guys that are running your eletronics inline with a shorty are you using the C hub or an A hub? shaved brace?
C hub and shaved brace for me with the AVID shelf and a shorty.
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Old 12-05-2013 | 08:24 AM
  #11605  
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So i just got a B4 worlds and instead of reading 774 pages what are the common mods to do to this car. I always have had losi my first Associated since my carpet racing days.
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Old 12-05-2013 | 08:28 AM
  #11606  
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Originally Posted by Ice22
Hey guys

is it still "worth it" to buy the B4.2? I´ve heard rumours about the B5 being available in january14. Does anyone have any more Infos/rumours?
There has been nobody that works for AE say when the B5 will be released, or even acknowledge that it exists. Anything rumored so far has been from keyboard "gurus".
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Old 12-05-2013 | 09:03 AM
  #11607  
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Originally Posted by lv4sndz
So i just got a B4 worlds and instead of reading 774 pages what are the common mods to do to this car. I always have had losi my first Associated since my carpet racing days.
basically anything to make it a b4.2 is a good upgrade. I found a big difference with the big bores and the alum steering rack. The only other common upgrades outside of a b4.2 that i can think of is the avid motor centering kit and esc shelf. and RPM ball ends, personally i just replace them as they break.
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Old 12-05-2013 | 10:17 AM
  #11608  
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hexes would be nice too
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Old 12-05-2013 | 01:35 PM
  #11609  
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So i broke a rear a arm for the first time yesterday but I cant get the hinge pin out, I took out the small screw next to the pin. Ive been trying to shake it out but nothing is working. Whats the best way?
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Old 12-05-2013 | 01:40 PM
  #11610  
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Originally Posted by Subwire
So i broke a rear a arm for the first time yesterday but I cant get the hinge pin out, I took out the small screw next to the pin. Ive been trying to shake it out but nothing is working. Whats the best way?
needlenose pliers, grip the exposed portion of the hinge pin toward the middle of the arm and work it out a little at a time. Or, you could take the toe block out and pull it out from the battery compartment.
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