I actually used a big pair of wire cutters and then a hand file. A Dremel tool would be just fine as well...just be sure you don't weaken the tower just cut off the body post.

Hey guys

does anoyone know if the proline b4.2 Body is the same as the "original-kit-Body"?

I bought a new B4.2 (only built,not driven) for 120 bucks, but the Body was messed up very badly.

If not, does anyone know where to order the original Body? Google doesn`t give me any usefull Information

thanks for help lg

um if you have the original b4 body it wont fit properly, because the b4.2 is +8mm chassis

The body that comes in the B4.2 kit is the Proline Bulldog.

Yes ProLine Bulldog for the B4.2 is the FT kit body...I do believe the RTR body is different.

no it is not, the proline bulldog b4.2 is a different body then the one thats included in the kit, the kit body is the bulldog 2012 edition for the b4.1 wc (+8mm body still tho)

proline bulldog b4.2 has a fin on the roof. as well as extra cooling cutouts.

b4.1 bulldog: [kit body]

http://prolineracing.com/images/prod.../3342-00-2.jpg

b4.2 bulldog: [2013]

http://prolineracing.com/images/prod.../3403-00-2.jpg

Savox servos are excellent. I have them in all 3 of my cars and am looking to get one for my son's RB5 because he's got my 25 year old Futaba Servo which is top quality but is a little slow for today's RC. Additionally, they are easy to find used for $40 or less so it won't set me back much at all.


Also, I much prefer the Bulldog to the Bulldog 2. I paint my own bodies and I'm a novice and though I am excellent with my hands, cutting LM in those tiny recesses is a HUGE PITA!!! I much prefer the smoother roof of the older model.

I also dremeled off the lip on the front of the shock tower to make it easier to put the body on.

only way this will happen is if they move operations from "cheapo-land" to a different country like japan or wherever they make xray cars.:lol:

Thanks man, appreciate the info.

Ha !

slop ? My Ae ride is tight and wear's forever .....

Over the last 10 years my B4 has been converted in to a B4 Wc then converted into a B4.1 , then again converted into a B4.2 only again to turn into a way faster Centro .


Ae has always been keeping me fast & slop free ....

I have been running AE for about 5 years now and have only had slop issues when the car was not taken care of. I mean racing 3 days a week and practice 3 days a week (when i worked at the track) took a toll on the car but, it happens with all cars. I've seen sloppy Kyosho cars TLR cars, I think it all comes down to the maintenance on the cars.:nod:

i gotta agree with that. my fresh built b4.2 is nice and tight. my used sc10.2's have some play in them, up until i replace parts then back tight

Well I take extra great care of my whips and my 410 NEVER develops excess slop but my B4.2 and T4.1 do and everyone else's Associated cars are the same, so you either got lucky or you have not had a more precise vehicle to compare it to. On top of that I'm sure by now you guys are aware of what some of AE Team drivers say in regards tot he slop and looseness of their vehicles, but in case you haven't, whenever someone makes mention of all the slop their reply is Loose is fast. So no offense but, I highly doubt your car is as "tight" as you claim it to be.

TLR Ball Cups did remedy most of the slop in my 4.2's steering and camber but my arms do indeed have a little bit of play at the hinge pins. The slop the 22 develops is due to the putrid Sliderack system that is utter junk, but the rest of the car remains tight until you break something.

AE should look into Static mounting the pins on the arms and go to pivot balls like a few others have done. That's the only way the play will be eradicated once and for all. LOL

not true, the 22 develops plenty of slop everywhere. those that say it does not are blinded with their fanboy glasses. :lol: