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Blingy
Where do you race & what are the track conditions like ? |
The track is hard packed i dont know if id call it clay but something close to it , and it in IA
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Originally Posted by blingy
(Post 12590663)
The track is hard packed i dont know if id call it clay but something close to it , and it in IA
Try to post a image of your ride & the track if you can . Welcome to the thread ...:) |
Originally Posted by blingy
(Post 12590537)
I need some set up help ths is my current front:
1.7 32.5 Black springs In on the tower out on the arm 1/A w/1mm .90 limiters Grn barcodes open cell Rr: 1.7 30 Grn springs In and in Hubs all the way back w/C Brace shaved w/0 washers The speed in the batt channel Shorty Battery w1full pad in front Ok here is the problem its great just off center but wont finish a corner mid to exit any help is good oh and the track small indoor med traction and the rear tires green v1 barcodes and ive tried v2 not much differant thnx Both of the suggestions given will help with on power push & wheelies, but neither actually addresses the underlying problem of too much weight transfer to the rear. Both issues (on power push & wheelies) are a result of this. Absolutely adding/moving weight to the front will cause the front to lift less, but when that weight does transfer, there is more weight to transfer... What I would suggest is to adjust the mechanical connections that affect weight transfere directly with out changing where weight is in the buggy or how much weight is in the buggy. These 2 adjustments are anti-squat in the rear & droop in the front. Adding more anti-squat to the rear will keep the rear from droping as much due to torque during acceleration which limits the weight transfer to the rear. As an exact opposite (but accomplishing the same thing) limiting droop in the front (adding spacers inside the shock, below the piston, on the shaft) limits how far down the front wheels can go which is analagous to how high the chassis rises. Limiting how far up the chassis can go before the wheels come off the ground also limits how much weight is transfered to the rear. These 2 in combination with moving weight around should get you cornering better. p.s. don't make any changes in big steps, & only make one change at a time. I.e. Increase anti-squat 1*, run it, judge it. Need more? Move the battery 1/4" forward, run it, judge it. Need more? Add 1 spacer to the front shocks, run it, judge it. Repeat until it runs the way you want it. |
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http://www.redrc.net/2013/09/reedy-c...ok/#more-72088
looks like it will be out sooner than some thought |
Originally Posted by 34x17
(Post 12589231)
Cav Portland Spring Shoot out, link on this page
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...dRC10B4.2.html I run it with 69x32 or 72x32 D3.5 blinky. 14 grams in the rear triangles to settle it, or the vision chassis stiffeners. Carbon front end and arms. Alternatively, try the Hartson stock nationals setup, but I don't think he ran a shelf. Wild Cherry's setup looks very as well. |
Originally Posted by jswo
(Post 12590948)
What is wild cherries setup?
not my set-up , its what our better drivers are using however. will post tonight , too much for smart phone... |
Originally Posted by Waflet
(Post 12587425)
Hideeho
I really hate to be a debby downer, but as of late I have really started to wonder/hope what direction AE is going in their designs for the next few years. What has gotten me to thinking about it is AE's results on the world stage recently. In particular, last year @ 1/8 worlds, "rumor" has it the AE drivers had to use Kyosho drive shafts & related parts because the AE shafts weren't up to the challenge, & they lost :(. This year for 2wd worlds, AE had to use an aftermarket chassis because the AE design wasn't up to the challenge, & they lost :(. Today for 4wd worlds, AE is using an aftermarket chassis because the AE design isn't up to the challenge, & they didn't get tq :( (the race hasn't been run yet, so there's still some hope:nod:). The top echelon of AE drivers DO NOT EVEN COMPETE with the sc10 4x4 because the design is lacking, so they never win:(. See the pattern? Don't get me wrong, I love my b4 & b44 & they both work VERY well. The problem is, all 3 designs are OLD & have only received minor updates to try to stay ahead of the competition. Meanwhile, the competition is coming out with new, innovative designs that are catching up with & surpassing the AE designs on the track. The next round of new releases from AE, over the next 1-2 years, are going to be VERY telling on where the company is heading. Hopefully we will see a b5/t5/sc10t2 that is either rr/mr convertible or preferably 2 separate chassis, a b45, an rc8b2/t2, not to mention a 4wd sc that can actually compete the other brands. Hopefully these will be revolution/next step kind of designs rather evolution type designs. This will be a very good direction for the company to be going in. What I'm afraid we are going to see is a .3 series of cars & more cheap rtr cars to compete with Traxxas. IMHO, this will be a VERY bad sign for AE racers. I went AE for 1/10 buggy mostly because the indoor track I run has a wall full of parts for it and have heard it's easier to get a basic setup working than some other brands. My 1/8 buggy is very close to getting replaced by the EB48.2 as i'm running better lap times on my SCT410. The econversion setup is just not as good as something designed for electric. And I would rather have some parts crossover for the cars i'm running that day. So by next season i'll end up with an SC104x4 on auction block, SC10.2 & B4.2 running indoors, SCT410 & EB48.2 outdoors. |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 12591004)
not my set-up , its what our better drivers are using however.
will post tonight , too much for smart phone... |
Originally Posted by Waflet
(Post 12590873)
p.s. don't make any changes in big steps, & only make one change at a time. I.e. Increase anti-squat 1*, run it, judge it. Need more? Move the battery 1/4" forward, run it, judge it. Need more? Add 1 spacer to the front shocks, run it, judge it. Repeat until it runs the way you want it. |
Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 12591104)
I agree but for me being someone still trying to figure out what does what I find it helpful to make one adjustment but a big change to I can really feel the contrast, then meet back in the middle once I see what each extreme does, but wouldn't add tons of limiters and tons of anit-squat at the same time, but one at at time in big measurements to see the difference between changing one end or the other.
That is probably a lot quicker than the way I do it. I tend to make 1 small change (i.e. 1* of anti-squat) then run it, then ad another, then run it, etc until I get to the point where I past it help & it starts to get worse. When your doing anti-squat or droop (both of which take a while to change) you can spend all day working with 1 change :(. The up side is you learn what the limits are :). |
Anti-squat shouldn't take more than 2 minutes to change. Loosen the 2 screws that hold the front hingepin holder, and use a pick to remove the shim. Then slide the new one in.
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
(Post 12591311)
Anti-squat shouldn't take more than 2 minutes to change. Loosen the 2 screws that hold the front hingepin holder, and use a pick to remove the shim. Then slide the new one in.
You're right, it should. I always seem to have HUGE problems trying to get that shim in there or out of there :flaming::lol:. I guess that's just me :blush:. |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 12591004)
not my set-up , its what our better drivers are using however.
will post tonight , too much for smart phone... |
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