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-   -   Team Associated B4.2 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/694124-team-associated-b4-2-thread.html)

Pellefa 09-03-2013 04:36 AM

This diff adjustment tool seem very neat, video off the B44.2 thread. Anyone knows if it would work on the B4.2 as well? Diff screw is the same size, I am interested in knowing if it fits the geometry of the B4.2...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5pXW3G8ydI

Grasschopper 09-03-2013 06:21 AM

Well I wound up getting the JCon ball cups for free...do I try them?

Were all of the popping off issues related to using the hockey stick shaped cups on the inside rear? Or were people having issues with them popping off in other locations?

Ahh and an unrelated question: gear diff or ball diff for 17.5 racing on a med-high bite smooth clay track with wood jumps.

Here's the track (layout changes a few times a year):
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

Millerracing 09-03-2013 08:45 AM


Originally Posted by Grasschopper (Post 12510734)
Well I wound up getting the JCon ball cups for free...do I try them?

Were all of the popping off issues related to using the hockey stick shaped cups on the inside rear? Or were people having issues with them popping off in other locations?

Ahh and an unrelated question: gear diff or ball diff for 17.5 racing on a med-high bite smooth clay track with wood jumps.

Here's the track (layout changes a few times a year):
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

Haven't tried the jconcepts ball cup, but I would stick with the ball diff. I race at the same track.

chevmaro 09-03-2013 09:25 AM


Originally Posted by Pellefa (Post 12510530)
This diff adjustment tool seem very neat, video off the B44.2 thread. Anyone knows if it would work on the B4.2 as well? Diff screw is the same size, I am interested in knowing if it fits the geometry of the B4.2...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5pXW3G8ydI

It does. Diff nut is the same size. I always have a hard time knowing where I set my diff with this tool. Its much easier for me to use a regular hex driver. My dad uses the tool and he likes it.

chevmaro 09-03-2013 09:29 AM


Originally Posted by Cridd (Post 12508285)
When your shocks are not going up when on the car.....what is that? See video. Front work great but my rear I push down and does not go back up. Posted here since I also have had this issue on my B4.2 but can't remember what I did.

http://youtu.be/xG0UjsN31OU

Something binding. This happened on my dad's 22 when he used the wrong ball cups.

Wildcat1971 09-03-2013 10:36 AM

ok, lets talk servos for a sec. How much torque do you really need? I have often though my servos were pretty fast. But today I was watching the protek servo sales video. They pushed down on the front of the 8th scale buggy and the wheels were still really quick. If i bottom out my b4 and try to steer, its pretty slow and seems to really struggle. But with arms level, my wheels move super fast. So I assume the issue is in the torque or my car binding when the front it bottomed out. I have a NIB savox 1258 that I cant seem to sell and am wondering if it would be better.

Bob Barry 09-03-2013 10:39 AM


Originally Posted by Grasschopper (Post 12510734)
Well I wound up getting the JCon ball cups for free...do I try them?

Were all of the popping off issues related to using the hockey stick shaped cups on the inside rear? Or were people having issues with them popping off in other locations?

Ahh and an unrelated question: gear diff or ball diff for 17.5 racing on a med-high bite smooth clay track with wood jumps.

Here's the track (layout changes a few times a year):
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

HEY I KNOW THAT GUY! He's bad!

man watching that video I can really see how over geared I was.... This is why it's better to watch your races later :lol:

Wildcat1971 09-03-2013 10:40 AM

those jumps makes funny noises :)

Grasschopper 09-03-2013 10:49 AM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12511419)
ok, lets talk servos for a sec. How much torque do you really need? I have often though my servos were pretty fast. But today I was watching the protek servo sales video. They pushed down on the front of the 8th scale buggy and the wheels were still really quick. If i bottom out my b4 and try to steer, its pretty slow and seems to really struggle. But with arms level, my wheels move super fast. So I assume the issue is in the torque or my car binding when the front it bottomed out. I have a NIB savox 1258 that I cant seem to sell and am wondering if it would be better.

Yea I'm actually running a 1258tg currently in my B4 as it was in my SCT and I sold that. I had been using a DS1015 but I pulled it to put in my eBuggy as it for sure needed more torque than the B4. I don't have any issues with having enough speed (that I know of) with the Savox...just wish I had the balls to run it without the glitch buster. :D But I don't...I'm not letting something stupid like that ruin a race, even with a Futaba rx and the nice strong Viper BEC.

That said I'm not opposed to getting one of these: http://hitecrcd.com/products/servos/...-servo/product
I have the 8370 in my D8 Tekno and it's been great.

Bob Barry 09-03-2013 10:52 AM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12511434)
those jumps makes funny noises :)

Ignore that. The tires squealing going around the turns drown it out.

Grasschopper 09-03-2013 10:55 AM


Originally Posted by Bob Barry (Post 12511430)
HEY I KNOW THAT GUY! He's bad!

man watching that video I can really see how over geared I was.... This is why it's better to watch your races later :lol:

Yea the most recent videos are yours...plus I figured it gave some validity to the post.

Get ready...I'm gonna be in your way in just a couple of months. :lol:

Bob Barry 09-03-2013 10:58 AM


Originally Posted by Grasschopper (Post 12511477)
Yea the most recent videos are yours...plus I figured it gave some validity to the post.

Get ready...I'm gonna be in your way in just a couple of months. :lol:

If I'm driving like that, you won't be in my way :ha:

Grasschopper 09-03-2013 11:00 AM


Originally Posted by Bob Barry (Post 12511483)
If I'm driving like that, you won't be in my way :ha:

You clearly haven't been watching my race videos. :lol:

Waflet 09-03-2013 12:32 PM


Originally Posted by Grasschopper (Post 12510734)
Well I wound up getting the JCon ball cups for free...do I try them?

Were all of the popping off issues related to using the hockey stick shaped cups on the inside rear? Or were people having issues with them popping off in other locations?

Ahh and an unrelated question: gear diff or ball diff for 17.5 racing on a med-high bite smooth clay track with wood jumps.

Here's the track (layout changes a few times a year):
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

Hideeho
I had previously posted about problems with the JC ball cups. This past saturday I put them on the front camber links to test them before my race started. I ended up having other issues & forgot all about adding mor ball cups. The good news is I was ABLE to forget about the cups all day long. No problems with popping the front camber links at all. The next day I spend practicing (maybe Saturday morning) I plan to put them all back on, including installing the hockey stick cups the propper way.

Grasschopper 09-03-2013 12:56 PM


Originally Posted by Waflet (Post 12511747)
Hideeho
I had previously posted about problems with the JC ball cups. This past saturday I put them on the front camber links to test them before my race started. I ended up having other issues & forgot all about adding mor ball cups. The good news is I was ABLE to forget about the cups all day long. No problems with popping the front camber links at all. The next day I spend practicing (maybe Saturday morning) I plan to put them all back on, including installing the hockey stick cups the propper way.

Thanks for the feedback...I'm trying to decide whether or not to put them on my B4 when I rebuild it after the outdoor season and before indoor season.

In other news: Diff rings, AE rings are $1.89, MIP Rings are $2.29, B-Fast Rings are $13.99. Are the MIP rings any better than the AE rings? And does it really make sense to go with the B-Fast rings? That's a huge price difference. I already have the ceramic diff balls and was going to go with the caged thrust bearing setup so a complete B-Fast kit doesn't make sense.


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