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Old 08-20-2013 | 05:33 PM
  #8416  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
have any of you looked at the setup sheet and setup chart that Ray Munday put together? This is the same setup sheet that's on AE site, but the chart looks like a great find. Start with his setup and then pick the conditions you run in.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...0811/setup.pdf
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...hart201303.pdf
Chart is a very good quick reference tool while at the track, good find there buddy.
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Old 08-20-2013 | 07:14 PM
  #8417  
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It's great to see the boys in the USA have found Ray's setup sheet.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...0811/setup.pdf

It's honestly the best and most balanced 2wd I've driven in a long time. Super stable and just enough pack for over jump flat landings. A few of us in AUS have been running and tweaking the setup for the last few months, but all the credit to Ray. I pretty much start with this setup at every outdoor track and its 80-90% there.
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Old 08-20-2013 | 08:37 PM
  #8418  
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Buying a FT b4.2 tomorrow. going to race it in stock class. Looking forward to it as this will be my first 1/10th 2wd buggy.
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Old 08-20-2013 | 08:46 PM
  #8419  
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grats, its a very easy car to get setup and do well with. but the stock ball cups suck, just an hyi. otherwise good kit
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Old 08-20-2013 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by PSSUPERSTORE
Buying a FT b4.2 tomorrow. going to race it in stock class. Looking forward to it as this will be my first 1/10th 2wd buggy.

you'll like it very much and there's tons of members here including myself that will help you setup your car. have fun and enjoy the build, like what wildcat said don't use the box kit ball cups, for some reason they are weak just get some stock ones from your local hobby store.
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Old 08-20-2013 | 09:16 PM
  #8421  
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They aren't kidding I just built mine about a month ago. Used the stock ball cups and had one split right up the center. In 20 years of RC Ive never seen that. Didn't pop off or break it literally split up the middle and the ball stud was jammed halfway up the cup LOL

Just get some stock AE cups you clip off the tree or RPM's, green springs front and back with 30wt oil and stock pistons you'll be golden
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Old 08-21-2013 | 05:32 AM
  #8422  
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Question I purchased a pre owned lot with a b4.2, B4.1wc and also a B4.
The purchase came with a huge bag of parts for all 3 buggies.
How do I tell the difference between the B4, B4.1wc & the B4.2 parts?

I'm planning on keeping the 4.2 so should I just keep all of the parts?

I know some of the fast guys around here run the graphite front arm and the black plastic rear arms on our indoor track.

Thx...

Last edited by RED-LINE M03; 08-21-2013 at 08:13 AM.
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Old 08-21-2013 | 07:37 AM
  #8423  
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Hey Wildcat, I tried to mount the rear camber link like you do but it seems the ballcup rubs a teeny bit on the rear hub carrier. Have you found this to be a problem? I use RPM cups they might be a bit bigger then the AE cups.
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Old 08-21-2013 | 07:38 AM
  #8424  
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Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03
Question I purchased a pre owned lot with a b4.2, B4.1wc and also a B4.
The purchase came with a huge bag of parts for both buggies.
How do I tell the difference between the B4, B4.1wc & the B4.2 parts?

I'm planning on keeping the 4.2 so should I just keep all of the parts?

I know some of the fast guys around here run the graphite front arm and the black plastic rear arms on out indoor track.

Thx...
Not gonna swear on this but I think that most of the chassis parts may be interchangeable, the difference in the cars in some oth the more minor parts, like steering racks and slippers and BB shocks and so on, but a-arms and shock towers and so on may be usable on all of them!
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Old 08-21-2013 | 07:57 AM
  #8425  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
Hey Wildcat, I tried to mount the rear camber link like you do but it seems the ballcup rubs a teeny bit on the rear hub carrier. Have you found this to be a problem? I use RPM cups they might be a bit bigger then the AE cups.
I use the rpms and back mount the C hub with no rubbing at all with avid, tlr, aka or rb6 rear wheels.
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Old 08-21-2013 | 08:00 AM
  #8426  
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Originally Posted by theblitzkidd
Not gonna swear on this but I think that most of the chassis parts may be interchangeable, the difference in the cars in some oth the more minor parts, like steering racks and slippers and BB shocks and so on, but a-arms and shock towers and so on may be usable on all of them!
just need to mod the b4.1 and b4 towers for the b4.2 with BB. The b4.0 rear tower does not have the "4th hole" also. And the chassis might not be the same either.
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Old 08-21-2013 | 08:05 AM
  #8427  
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about a month ego after driving the brand new b4.2 for about 3.5 packs i saw that my chassis had two cracks near the servo:



because it was a new car i didn't drive hard (i still don't). only getting to know the track and the car.

so i emailed associated and they agreed to send me a new chassis.
so nice CS from AE.

did this ever happened to any one?
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Old 08-21-2013 | 08:10 AM
  #8428  
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lol, I have never seen them crack there. normally under the steering rack. you broke it on a beefy part of the chassis. And Nick over at AE does excellent CS. I have nothing bad to say about AE CS at all. That was a main driving factor in selling my rb6 and keeping the b4.


I suspect you broke because of the savox servo. They have been know to brake a chassis or 2.
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Old 08-21-2013 | 08:21 AM
  #8429  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
just need to mod the b4.1 and b4 towers for the b4.2 with BB. The b4.0 rear tower does not have the "4th hole" also. And the chassis might not be the same either.

So is it safe to say that all of the arms from the B4, B4.1 and B4.2 are all the same front & rear?

AE just has 2 styles of arms for all 3 buggies correct?
"Black Plastic or Grey Graphite"

Thx...
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Old 08-21-2013 | 08:23 AM
  #8430  
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hmmm I've never seen one cracked in that area did you get hit by a shortcourse? kudos to nick, he and the others like mike are very good at what they do and ae cs is top notch.
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