|
Originally Posted by askbob
(Post 11717623)
I know it's probably been re-hashed many times, but in a nutshell, are any of the 'hop-up' alloy parts needed on a B4.1 other than the aluminum steering rack? I have the front brace and alloy rear hubs. Needing a quick consenus due to having parts re-anodized and don't want to leave anything out.
Get the 4.2 ....:nod: |
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 11716884)
fond of promatch racing myself. the new IP lipos he is stocking are reasonably priced and have a 1 year warranty. I got some of the 7200mah 80Cs myself. Heard good things about SMCs as well with price to performance. I think there 6500s are pretty cheap right now, though dependent on what works for you of course.
I keep going back and forth between running a shorty and this big packs I have. Like the feel of the shorty but the big pack wasn't exactly off pace either. Run the saddles in my wheeler and they are money!! Good price and outstanding performance |
what is the actual performance gain by using a front wheel hex versus bearing in the wheel setup, or, same thing for the pin setup in the rear versus the hex? I can see some more durability but curious what is the performance gain.
|
Durability for the rear, rarely strips with the hex at all.
The front is no performance upgrade really, the benefit is that you have a larger selection of wheels that you can use. I run hex rears (share em with b44.2 also). But just standard fronts because I have a bunch of em already. |
yeah, was figuring that as it was a nice feature back when I had my academy vehicles to use the hex in the rear. But was curious if WC had some other info showing that it affected performance. Maybe bit more weight from the hex?
|
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 11717963)
yeah, was figuring that as it was a nice feature back when I had my academy vehicles to use the hex in the rear. But was curious if WC had some other info showing that it affected performance. Maybe bit more weight from the hex?
|
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 11717692)
All the optional parts included in the B4.2 are very useful & important for performance ...
Get the 4.2 ....:nod: |
Originally Posted by askbob
(Post 11718261)
Thanks WC. I have the 4.1 Worlds which has the aluminum bits. Anything else necessary like the alloy front bulkhead, rear aluminum support, or any other optional alloy parts?
You only need to purchase C hub Carbon U brace ( shaved) 12mm BB shocks 0 degree blue rear hub carbon front arm b44.1 rear arm( carbon rear for high traction) AVID Steering & Triad slipper |
Have used both the VTS and Avid Triad slipper setup, and I prefer the VTS (which will come on the B4.2). Cheaper, easier to find parts for (uses standard/readily available AE spurs) and I find it has a much more adjustable range than the Avid.
|
Originally Posted by negatv1
(Post 11718399)
Have used both the VTS and Avid Triad slipper setup, and I prefer the VTS (which will come on the B4.2). Cheaper, easier to find parts for (uses standard/readily available AE spurs) and I find it has a much more adjustable range than the Avid.
|
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 11718453)
looking at giving the VTS a try but can't find that darn b44 original spring.
|
Thanks for the info! Going to have the alloy pieces anodized gold for a throwback of sorts. Need to find a few pics of attempts at old school paint schemes on the newer standard B4 bodies. Not the cab-forward, minivan-esque 4.1 body.:lol:
|
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 11718453)
looking at giving the VTS a try but can't find that darn b44 original spring.
|
I've used the kit B4.1 spring with the VTS slipper setup. Seemed to work just fine.
|
Originally Posted by negatv1
(Post 11718490)
I've used the kit B4.1 spring with the VTS slipper setup. Seemed to work just fine.
TIP for the VTS folks -- keep extra 5/40 lock nuts around and always install a new one when moving TO the vts. It tends to back off a worn out lock nut way easier than the old slipper. New nuts last a LONG time, but if you're like me and you went from a V2 to a VTS and used your year old lock nut, you will likely have to replace it to keep it from backing off. Wayne |
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:48 PM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.