![]() |
Originally Posted by the incubus
(Post 12209837)
I had this very issue just on my T4's left rear arm and no matter what I did it would come out. Luckily someone at my local track offered up the best possible fix and it has never again caused an issue.
Re-install it exactly as you're supposed to and then take a piece of shrink tubing and place it over the joint and shrink it well. Too large a pice and the edges will be wrinkled so I used a piece of tube that was just too small to fit over the joint and then took my needle nose pliers and stretched it just enough to allow me to work it into position, then hit it with a flame and sliced off the excess. The smaller diameter tubing shrinks all the way down around the sides without wrinkling and you can't notice it. If you give me another week or 2 I might be able to snap a pic of it for you. LOL We just landed a new client (many NFL Players wear their apparel under their unis) and the scope of work is totally NOT what they assured us it would be. It's actually more than 5 times the amount of work! The due date is just around the corner and some of us haven't slept much in the last 3 weeks. |
Originally Posted by Tradin Paint
(Post 12209749)
I use the grub screw with a little locktite and put a dab of CA glue over the "gap" in the retainer ring
Originally Posted by bilster44
(Post 12210516)
CVD= Constant Velocity Drive...manufactured by MIP. The CVA's are already tapped. I always run CVD's...they are a little smaller and lighter...and they do NOT hit the rear arm cross brace nearly as much. Mechanical traction is the same too.
|
Yes like tbe.pinions
|
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by the incubus
(Post 12209837)
I had this very issue just on my T4's left rear arm and no matter what I did it would come out. Luckily someone at my local track offered up the best possible fix and it has never again caused an issue.
Re-install it exactly as you're supposed to and then take a piece of shrink tubing and place it over the joint and shrink it well. Too large a pice and the edges will be wrinkled so I used a piece of tube that was just too small to fit over the joint and then took my needle nose pliers and stretched it just enough to allow me to work it into position, then hit it with a flame and sliced off the excess. The smaller diameter tubing shrinks all the way down around the sides without wrinkling and you can't notice it. If you give me another week or 2 I might be able to snap a pic of it for you. LOL We just landed a new client (many NFL Players wear their apparel under their unis) and the scope of work is totally NOT what they assured us it would be. It's actually more than 5 times the amount of work! The due date is just around the corner and some of us haven't slept much in the last 3 weeks. |
Originally Posted by padjr1
(Post 12210543)
Did only put the shrink tubing over the part where the cva retainer clip fits around?
Just googled it really quickly and came across this: http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...p-cvd-why.html Scroll down a bit and click on the image and then move on to the 2nd image as it has better detail. That is exactly how it should look. |
? My buggy is turning good left but on right turns I'm sliding the front the o ly way to get it to turn good right is to let it roll around the corner but if I just barely give it throttle the noise Of my car slides out to the wall any suggestions.
I am running the big bore shocks Front 32.5 w. Oil brown springs 2 limiters 1.6 pistons Rear 27.5 green springs 1 limiter 1.6 pistons front shock tower under ball stud 2 mm inside 2mm bump steer In side steering block Rear I have shaved brace with 1 mm under inside I run the plastic b44 rear hubs I also run avid steering rack Any help to help the noise from sliding would be appreciated. Tires I was running front rebars and rear gigabites |
If your turn buckles are perfectly even left to right make sure you have the right amount of tow out and proper amount of Negative Camber first. If you do, swap out your inner washers to 1mm and readjust camber and see where you're at.
I tend to eyeball it for my tow out and then adjust camber using the tool. |
Will try that in the morning thanks
|
Is it worth upgrading the bellcrank? Which model, Jconcepts or Avid?
|
Does anyone know if the b4.2 chassis is different from the 4.1? (as far as stifness?)
thks |
Originally Posted by Theroc
(Post 12211520)
Does anyone know if the b4.2 chassis is different from the 4.1? (as far as stifness?)
thks |
B.A
Thanks for the info.. Is it the same for the b4.1 worlds? |
Originally Posted by Theroc
(Post 12211607)
B.A
Thanks for the info.. Is it the same for the b4.1 worlds? |
Originally Posted by B.A. Racer
(Post 12211625)
Yes. All the +8 chassis are made from the same material.
|
Originally Posted by Skillz_B
(Post 12211483)
Is it worth upgrading the bellcrank? Which model, Jconcepts or Avid?
|
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:45 AM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.