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-   -   Team Associated B4.2 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/694124-team-associated-b4-2-thread.html)

Cridd 04-13-2013 07:25 PM


Originally Posted by Waflet (Post 12041840)
Hideeho
On a more serious note...
What would you change from the b4.2 to make a b5?

+7 more on chassis? Been there, done that, all but ready to come back. It's easier to drive when the skill level is not that high, but as my skill level is increasing & I'm about to the point where the shorter chassis & quicker handling would be a bigger help than slower reactions when sliding.

Aluminum chassis? Seems like a good idea on the surface, but the plastic chassis flexing helps the handling. If an aluminum chassis flexes any significant amount it will bend or warp. Just ask the 22 drivers.

Carbon fiber chassis? Again seems like a good idea, but again no flex or it breaks. Then again cf works very well for the b44 series & Schumacher. I would think cf would be a better option than aluminum.

Narrow nose with longer, maybe gullwing front arms? That's a possibility, but if its too much narrower there will be structural issues.

Redesigned front end to allow adjustable kick up, like an 8th buggy? This would be on top of my list if I were working on it.

Easier/more adjustable rear anti-squat/toe? This would be #2 on my list. Again, look at how a 1/8 buggy does it.

Mid engine? Jury is still out on this one, but x-factory seems to be able to get their cars to handle on dirt pretty well. I would be HIGHLY interested to see what AE could do with the design concept. Making it convertible is terribly convenient, but is terribly compromised, unless the conversion is a huge conversion & requires a ton of parts to do.

A true limited slip differential? This would have as big or bigger impact on the rc world as lipos & brushless combined! But, I don't think it's doable for a reasonable price.

What else would everyone like to see on a b5? Keep in mind a b5 would probably start with a clean sheet of paper, so the sky is the limit.

My dream list:
a screw in wing, quick change :)
easier (for me) ball diff tweaking, loose or tight. Longer life.
better shock mounting on the towers with no plastic nuts
high end ball end connections, popping off gets tiresome
better route to get your motor wires to esc if you break a shock tower
better places for wires to hide on electronics
A cooler tech look, a little of Apple or Google meets Detroit Iron twist
a fix so your under chassis bolts don't get dirt in them
faster gear mesh, pinion change, engine cover removal set up

Blitzrockey 04-13-2013 08:22 PM

Got a d3.5 8.5 in my buddys car just wondering what he should gear it at for a outdoor track 100ft straight. Would you run blinky also? What should he put the endbell timing at? Thanks!

3srcracing 04-13-2013 10:15 PM

So running the ESC on top of battery strap was popular... Now it seems that running everything in the battery tray is more popular.. What is the difference between these two setups?

Waflet 04-13-2013 10:56 PM


Originally Posted by Blitzrockey (Post 12043219)
Got a d3.5 8.5 in my buddys car just wondering what he should gear it at for a outdoor track 100ft straight. Would you run blinky also? What should he put the endbell timing at? Thanks!

Hideeho
I run 24/78 on my 8.5 with a similar front straight. Timing in the ESC &/or on the can is purely a personal feel. I used to run a tekin rs pro & LRP combo. I didn't like the feel of adding boost on the ESC, so I ran 3 dots (out of 4) end bell timing. Now I'm running a sp reventon r & sp v3 8.5 & prefer adding timing on the ESC & 5* on the end bell. You'll have to experiment & see what feels good with your setup. Just make sure to check you temps often as you add power.

t0p_sh0tta 04-14-2013 05:32 AM


Originally Posted by 3srcracing (Post 12043482)
So running the ESC on top of battery strap was popular... Now it seems that running everything in the battery tray is more popular.. What is the difference between these two setups?

Chassis roll vs. rotation.

I trashed an ESC a while back before a race, and ran a loaner. Didn't have time to extend the wires, so I ran it in the battery tray. Even with lowering the roll centers, I didn't like how aggressive it was in the turns. Mounting the ESC high changes when and how much weight is transferred to the outside tire. I find the raised ESC more stable, and easier to drive.

gticlay 04-14-2013 07:14 AM


Originally Posted by Waflet (Post 12041840)
Hideeho
On a more serious note...
What would you change from the b4.2 to make a b5?

+7 more on chassis? Been there, done that, all but ready to come back. It's easier to drive when the skill level is not that high, but as my skill level is increasing & I'm about to the point where the shorter chassis & quicker handling would be a bigger help than slower reactions when sliding.

Aluminum chassis? Seems like a good idea on the surface, but the plastic chassis flexing helps the handling. If an aluminum chassis flexes any significant amount it will bend or warp. Just ask the 22 drivers.

Carbon fiber chassis? Again seems like a good idea, but again no flex or it breaks. Then again cf works very well for the b44 series & Schumacher. I would think cf would be a better option than aluminum.

Narrow nose with longer, maybe gullwing front arms? That's a possibility, but if its too much narrower there will be structural issues.

Redesigned front end to allow adjustable kick up, like an 8th buggy? This would be on top of my list if I were working on it.

Easier/more adjustable rear anti-squat/toe? This would be #2 on my list. Again, look at how a 1/8 buggy does it.

Mid engine? Jury is still out on this one, but x-factory seems to be able to get their cars to handle on dirt pretty well. I would be HIGHLY interested to see what AE could do with the design concept. Making it convertible is terribly convenient, but is terribly compromised, unless the conversion is a huge conversion & requires a ton of parts to do.

A true limited slip differential? This would have as big or bigger impact on the rc world as lipos & brushless combined! But, I don't think it's doable for a reasonable price.

What else would everyone like to see on a b5? Keep in mind a b5 would probably start with a clean sheet of paper, so the sky is the limit.

It wasn't a limited slip differential in the way it is on an Audi, but a ball diff combined with the Hydradrive was pretty darn awesome. Someone should make that again. Just sayin'

thecman26 04-14-2013 10:53 AM

B5?
Wow I just got my B4.2!
I am thoroughly happy with it just the way it is! I couldn't ask for more at this point in time!
Can it be improved? I don't see how really. The shocks are great, diff just right, chassis layout is great, durability is great so far but like I said mine is still no so we will have to see!

snaketaco 04-14-2013 11:07 AM

B5 better quality...not to impressed with my .2 in that regards

Jmuck69 04-14-2013 11:15 AM

My wish list for a B5 will include the following:
  • maintain the B4.2
  • Molded-in threaded metal inserts in key areas such as front chassis to front plate and rear chassis area to U-brace/rear shock tower.

Waflet 04-14-2013 12:08 PM


Originally Posted by Jmuck69 (Post 12044851)
My wish list for a B5 will include the following:
  • maintain the B4.2
  • Molded-in threaded metal inserts in key areas such as front chassis to front plate and rear chassis area to U-brace/rear shock tower.

Hideeho
That is the best idea yet! And in metric!

MOmo 04-14-2013 12:33 PM

At the cactus this year, Lee Martin ran the vega chassis using a Tamiya trf platform. They also offer a metal chassis for the.b4 and Kyosho platform. For those wanting a.metal chassis and mid motor options, give this a.look.

http://www.teamxtreme.co.uk/news/673/




Momo

Eli 04-14-2013 04:41 PM

FactoryOne-rc Ultra bushings
 
The factoryOne ultra bushings are amazing! I really felt my cars suspension has not been any better then it is now with them installed. Best single in-expensive item you can get for the b4 that is an improvement over stock IMO. Give them a shot, you wont be disappointed.

Eli 04-14-2013 05:05 PM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12038991)
I think Eli is running the exotek hubs. maybe he can shed some light on what he does to keep them from rubbing and if the hubs alone fix the need for spacing at the bottom.

Yes i am currently and have been for about 2 months and am very happy with the exotek hubs. No extra washers and im at what at least feels like "A" hub height. Played with them for a while and am not using the supplied washers that come with them that is intended to use under the ballstuds to i think help a ball stud from breaking. Im using a long neck ball stud with blue loctite on the hub side to prevent it from loosening and left what i was using as far as washers go on the inside (2mm unshaved). They last a lot longer then the ae hubs do that is for sure.

Tradin Paint 04-14-2013 06:26 PM

Please remind me, are the plastic hubs from the B44 .00 degrees or .05?

Jmuck69 04-14-2013 06:38 PM


Originally Posted by Tradin Paint (Post 12046094)
Please remind me, are the plastic hubs from the B44 .00 degrees or .05?

.00


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