hi there

yes, rpm cups, carbide balls for the ball diff, aloy bulkhead and a rw spur gear 78.

now this one full tuned must go :-)

the b4.2 comes with carbide diff balls, lol. Why the alloy bulk head?

So I was thinking about the whole RPM ballcups.. Would it be better to break a ballcup or a turnbuckle? I have to think that if you land hard enough, SOMETHING is going to give. I'm kind of thinking that I would rather it be the ballcup than the turnbuckle.. Maybe its just me.

Anyone?

Ballcup but from what I am seeing with the RPM ones, they appear to flex more than the stockers.

ball cup will always break before a turnbuckle, unless there is a flaw or crack in the turnbuckle. Even the RPM ones will break first.

What I am seeing more and more of, are B4's with the titanium turnbuckles, ballcups and ballends from the TLR22's. These are noticeably beefier, larger, stronger and have heard nothing but good from those using them.

Don't know what the "hot" body to run is, but I'm kinda old school and will be running this body (it's currently with my painter)...

http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=494

Right now I am running the kit body just painted a nice ghost white :-)

+1 I like the Finnisher but still really like the Punnisher. I might have one painted up next to run. :sneaky:

[quote=Cain;12130123]Anyone?

The finnisher is currently the "hot" body. Weird, but I actually htink my b4 handled better with the finnisher than the bulldog, but that could be my imagination.

The real reason RPM Cups are preferred is because the stock factory ones leave a bit too much slop and pop off quite easily in comparison to the RPMs.

At least that's what I've found to be the case. As well, I find the Kyosho and TLR Factory ball Cups to be about as good and firm fitting as the RPM variety.

Personally, having been a competitive racer almost 2 decades ago, we grew tired of popping ball cups and moved onto these and NEVER encountered any such issues. in fact they're still on my 20 year old RC10 and though all cruddy from years of living on a shelf, they're still in tact and fit as firmly as they did when new. Sadly I cannot find them in multi-packs the way I used to and as a result they are extremely costly. Still, buy these once and they pay for themselves in no time as you will likely never have to buy another set of cups again.

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/d/dubq1745.jpg
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD902&P=6

Similar???

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...5&I=LXFPW8&P=K

can just replace the kits ball cups with Ae cups off the wall .

The real advantage is you can use the kits dimensions for the correct length and get a perfect alinement when done.

The new 2013 Proline Bulldog looks pretty good

Not quite.

Those are thinner around the swivel ball and they flex a bit and pop off the ball. If you notice on the one I posted, they are much thicker/more robust and that small stainless screw tightens the end around the ball to the point it's literally almost impossible to pull off without loosening that screw, and then the entire thing is screwed rather firmly to both mounting points resulting in virtually NO PLAY whatsoever. This vastly improves steering in the way of absolute precision because the side to side slop is almost 100% gone. Works the same for Camber all around as well.

Yes, but the end result is quite similar. With these you can literally match up the center points on the ends, left to right and end up with the exact same geometry and once it's done you can mark the length down for future setup/replacements.

Not to impressed with ,
tried them before. They bind more and not as smooth.

There also not bullet proof , they can snap and break.

All my experience with the dubro was using them in gas truck.

Good luck measuring as no guessing with the Ae cup.