boudin4evr

iTrader: (18)

+1

2SlowTC

iTrader: (41)

Im building my truck and was wondering if any one else had to ream the arms and tap all the screw holes. Its no big deal just wondering if all the kits are this "tight". Thanks

Graham11

iTrader: (22)

I have now built 4 sct/eb's and have never had to tap screw holes but yes it is definitely recommended to ream the arms although I did not on my first truck and it loosened up after a few race weekends.

cjcoffroad

iTrader: (13)

What bodies besides the j concepts titan have people had good luck with?

jiriel

for me, outdoor tracks with proline tundra body it doesn't help with the nose down issues in fact it makes it worse. my car flies truer with jconcepts f250 body.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

thanks for the heads up. I ordered the Jconcepts Nissan Titan body, regular thickness.

Right now, I am thinking about buying some more wheels, debating between AKA, Avid, or some Proline F11s.

Any recent opinions on the Proline's F11s versus Avids?

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

As for the Arms, yea that's kindof typical for most kits. When I had my SCTE and my D8, I would ream the arms so they move freely during suspension travel.

As for tapping th escrew holes, there's not really a need for that, they tend to tap themselve as you use the cap screws and button head screws. The link arms as well.

Bortzilla

iTrader: (26)

I would recommend staying away from the Avid wheels...I rounded out the hexes in those on a few separate occasions...Never had a problem with any other brands.

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

I have a set of the Proline F11s and AKA Enduros mounted to them. I have used them all summer and have been great. I plan on buying another set this week since indoor season will be starting soon

Graham11

iTrader: (22)

The Tekno guys recommended the JC ford f250 and the tlr hi flow body. I have both and also a JC chevy which is good too, just dont cut out the hood vent otherwise it will effect the nose dive.

2SlowTC

iTrader: (41)

Im just a bit of a perfectionist! Like I said its not a bad thing...I just didnt like the way the screws fit into some parts especially the diff cases. Now only if the rain would stop I can run this thing

Mizchief

I've had pretty good luck with the standard pro-line flotek. But did need to cut the extra bit of trim off the wheel wells to get good clearance. The standard JC hiflow was ok, but it broke in half on me pretty quick, truck is too heavy for it to last with all the cutout used.

I've wanted to try other bodies but shipping two day compared to the other stuff I was getting both times made me go to LHS instead and selection was more limited.

Anyone try the Pro-line EVO on this truck?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I was going to try the EVO, but I didn't find it on amain at all and other places are showing october to getting it in.


Maintenance question for everyone, I noticed that when working on my daughter's vehicle to get it setup prior to her first race, I noticed that when tigthening down the front top plate that goes on top of the steering posts, if I went too far I got binding in the steering rack.

I never noticed this before on my EB48 or my SCT410.

I plan to have her disassemble and reassemble her vehicle so she can get used to working on it some so want to address that as well.

Anything in particular I should look for?

Mullet1

iTrader: (16)

3 or 4 mm reamer for the arms?

Bernard_Jr

iTrader: (1)

When I built mine I didn't use any shims on the diff pinion at all. The diff fit was pretty snug in the new angled housing so I only used one shim on the gear side.

When he says "backlash" I believe he's referring to the amount of play between the ring gear and the diff pinion. My drivetrain spun very smoothly and seemed much quieter.