Yea I'm going to pick up the aluminum collars and hexes ASAP, are u guys running the bumpstop orings on the shaft or better off without em

I remember hearing that the gear noise is high on these but will break in and quiet down. I ran mine on the street for a minute just to make sure everything was rolling right and it was unbelievably loud. Louder than the Tekno's that I have seen at the track. Is that indicating improper mesh (motor pinion/c-diff spur is fine)?

Should I check the shimming of the diff gears? I assembled per the manual with one shim on each left and right side of the diff outdrive bearing inside the housing.

most likely improper mesh, it says 1 shim each side but if the mesh doesn't sound smooth you switch 1 shim to 1 side vice-versa till you're satisfied with the mesh like the manual says, I'd recommend breaking in the diffs as well before driving

This is what mine sounded like after a month of use. I've actually started applying more grease to the ring gear than I normally do on my 1/8 and it did quiet it down some.

+ YouTube Video

I helps the marshals know you're coming at least!! :lol: But refer to the note about shimming on page 5. I just make sure there a little bit of play.

I bet its the pinion/spur mesh. When you tighten down the motor mound screws make sure to hold the motor as straight as possible. There is a little slop in the motor mount and it wants to kick to one side or the other when you tighten it down and that will make it really loud.

Thanx for the info everyone. I did feel the mesh when assembling and it felt good but will pull the diffs out to give it another look.

I did notice the motor mount wanted to wander and I think I had it straight when I was tightening but will check that first... would suck if that was it after I pulled the diffs.

Thanx again.

Stock droop in front and rear currently.

@Fq06 I had the same problem turned out that I had the wrong type of pinion.. being loud is one thing but another way that you can check BUT I MAY BE WRONG.. when I was having issues with the mesh, my pinion was actually getting hot, when you Shouldn't really get any type of temp off the pinion after a few passes.. So if you take a lap or a few street passes and everything is cool except the pinion you may have the same issue I had..

Will check that out... mod 1 is correct right? Funny, didn't even look, just assumed by the look of the spur :D

I need to get a 16t anyway, 15t is the biggest I have in my box.

My whole point. The design is not allowing use of a sleeve which would be a lot stronger connection than loading the cross pin.

just practiced with new tranny housing and straight gears a lot quieter!!!

A sleeve wont do anything, the bearings are put into the hub from the outside so a sleeve on the inside can just push it out until the axle contacts the bearing that is being pushed into the hub. It effectively does nothing unless the bearings are captured, then the two bearings would share the load (only when pushing out) but since there is play the cross pin (I am assuming that you are talking about the one behind the hex) will still get all the load of the wheel nut being tightened.

I dont see anything wrong with the design, there are no reports of premature bearing failure and most bearings that are getting damaged are probably getting damaged more from the inhospitable environment they are being run in rather than side loading.

Also, I just checked a bunch of manuals for similar vehicles and 0 of them have a crush sleeve.

I have yet to replace my bearings after 6 months.
------------

I mean this with 100% unbiased honesty before I represented them: The Bearing structure and design is flawless.

I replaced my front axles (pics a page ago) the bearings HELD the shattered axles together for I have no idea how long. I put the same bearings back in the Truck. Absolutely astounding.

What brand of bearings are you referring to?

Kit Stock.

I'm also refering to the system as a whole. Not "just" the bearings. (in reference to the crush-tube complaint)