Originally Posted by sramos (Post 12420526)

+1 that's why I use hudy blocks and droop gauge now

Originally Posted by wreckya (Post 12420571)

There is a screw on the 410 that locks the droop in? Is it located on the A arms? And this is only something u set on a vehicle that is made to set it correct? Like my Losi 22 SCT I don't set droop on that correct?

Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 12420599)

Yea it's on the inside of the A-arms. Without the screw you get full droop which is HUGE on this truck. Not sure about the Losi, but my SC10 set's droop by putting spacers under the shock piston so the shocks can only extend so far.

Originally Posted by wreckya (Post 12420576)

Sramos can u give me that website u ordered the CF air dams from? Thanks.

Originally Posted by sramos (Post 12420617)

Hotlapsrc.com

Originally Posted by lala4fire (Post 12419653)

Well I pulled the trigger and bought this truck and am stoked to start building it and racing a new class:ha: Most all the guys that race these vehicles run 2 cell and 4600 kv motors. They are always coming off complaining how hot their motors get and how their puffing batteries and such. The track is a small indoor clay/dirt mix with med. traction. So I was thinking of running a takin RX8 gen2 with a 3000 kv pro 4 hd on 3 cell and wanted to know if this would be the way to go to keep thing running cool and still have the power to try and beat these guys:sneaky: My local track does not regulate cell count. Any advise would be great and hope to one day be able to give constructive tuning input for this tread.

Originally Posted by cpt_RedBeard (Post 12420489)

I never got why we measure droop eyelet to eyelet. What happens when you change shock locations. Yes droop will stay the same because of the stopper screws, but if you need to adjust it it will be different that the initial setting.

Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 12420694)

Yea if all your worried about is making them even you just need a stick and a marker to measure the sock length on one side and compare to the other. However a decent set of digital calipers is a good tool to have in you back. I got mine at an autoparts store for $30 but have seen them online for half that.

Originally Posted by Hoese37 (Post 12420715)

I wish they woulda went with a droop screw like the one on a RC8B.2. Its a button head screw with a hex in both ends, and the screw gois in frm the bottom. It doesnt wear the chassis at all. Maybe this is just an idea for future products fro Tekno...

Originally Posted by Hoese37 (Post 12420715)

I wish they woulda went with a droop screw like the one on a RC8B.2. Its a button head screw with a hex in both ends, and the screw gois in frm the bottom. It doesnt wear the chassis at all. Maybe this is just an idea for future products fro Tekno...

Originally Posted by Slotmachine (Post 12420766)

So why dont you do what I did and buy them and put them in? You do have to bevel the stop on the chassis to get full droop though because the chassis is not like the lite-weight one (eb-48). It is intended to use the screw like that.