The bearings are very good quality for kit bearings--maybe just a fluke.....

One of our rear big hub bearings nuked after only 4 runs with my sons truck. luckly I had a replacement. The crappiest bearings I have ever encountered are in AE kits.

Boca yellow-seals for an application like that

Bearings are disposable wear items like tires.

If one happened to blow up, replace it for a $1.00 and move on.

Here's the new body for my Tekno custom painted by Ab Brusher (Facebook tag).. just thought I'd share.. the guy does some sick work, $90 for body, paint, and shipping whatever you can throw at em'.. Anywho..

Exactly... a WEAR item, which means you expect it to wear out first.
Did you not read the part where he said it was on the track for 3 minutes before it went?!?
I was there, I seen it.

That is BADASS!!

Hey guys, I plan to be ordering my sct410 before the end of next week...

(I sold my E-Revo roller to pay for my new toy.)

But I do have a few questions...

I've read the last 15 pages or so on this thread, and fully intend to go back to read the first page over a few times to let it all soak in. I also plan on looking into a few of the setup sheets before I build the kit.

I'm wondering:

-what; if any, spare parts to order with the kit?(are guys breaking a-arms or hubs??)

-should I order any optional parts ahead of time?(CF or CNC alloy shock towers, or more shock shafts? Optional springs?)

-what pinions should I grab? (I plan to be taking the RX8 out of my Revo, and a ten shock sc411 4000kV.) On my local track I run a 2250-t8 geared 12/44 on my mugen mbx6-eco.

-which servo should I rob from my other trucks?(I've got a Savox 1256tg and 1258tg
To choose from.)

-any reason my FTW Racing Diamondback body wouldn't fit??


Thanks for the help, I know I've got lots of reading ahead of me before I get this kit, but I look forward to being another contributing member here on RCTech.

PS... Bcholka; I think I may have run into you at Trackside last Friday night. I was on my way out the door asking how to get to Miller Park for the Brewer's game. And ask a guy what he has... he said he wrenched for his son, but didn't drive an RC him self...

If it was the bearing on the outside if the gearbox, on the diff pinion, the problem is one of assembly. If you squeeze the pinion drive cup tight, then tighten the setscrew, the bearing will bind when heated up during normal use. Then it goes blammo! Make sure there is just the slightest of pay between the bearing and the drive cup before tightening the setscrew down.
Let me guess....it was the rear bearing?

@Erevo
Alum Hexes, Arms (just to have), Hinge Pin plates (Just to have), 15-18 pinions (dependent on the track), 1258TG is brutal, your body should fit with no issues, Def get a few stiffer rear springs (just in case), The towers if your concerned about weight... However, with all that said.. I haven't had anything break as of yet.. It's pretty much solid, if something does break you'd have time to order it vs. needing it right then and now to finish a race lol.. But it's good to see a Traxxas convert stepping up to the big league lol.. I was right there with you dumping tons of money in my Slash 4x4 with no chance at ever competing.. lol !

all I have done was get the aluminum steering rack,center drive shaft,new stiffer servo saver spring and stiffer suspension springs.

I am curious if anyone has tried something like Barcodes in Orange on a dry outdoor hard packed super abrasive track. NorCal eats tires and they work fine as slicks but I am trying to find something that will work well and have some longevity. I am also considering some Panther Slicks in soft (I think that is the hardest compound that they make in slicks). I guess the tire surface is thicker than a normal treaded tires carcass so they should last a lot longer.

Seems pretty logical I guess.

Lol @ a Traxxas convert... that's what I love about them... you can convert them into anything you want... 1 platform 90% interchangeable parts, gets you 5 different trucks! (Don't hate on Traxxas on account of me. I'll never get rid of my mini revo, or my slash 2wd... or my pede 4x4truggy.)


But thanks for the alloy hub tip. It just so happens that I have a set from my pede4x4 from before I switched to the tekno 17mm hubs.

Sick paint job. If that was mine, I would not run it. It would be on the shelf as a show piece.

Spreading the word of God--that's cooler than your paint job--and that paint job is COOL!!!!!