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Old 06-24-2013, 07:22 AM
  #11476  
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Originally Posted by cottonme173
Question for you all. I have a PRO4 HD motor and am getting some pretty high temps on short runs. Adjusting the pinion down to a 15 puts it in the range around 150 (which is fine) but the owner was asking me about the timing I am using and.....well....I don't know much about that. He suggested it may help with temps and also improve run times (currently about 12-15 min on a 6000mah lipo) Im not racing hardcore just running on an outdoor med-loose dirt track.

I am using a Castle MMP ESC (RX8 going in for service).

I know runtime with a HD motor and a heavy truck is never going to be GREAT.

Question is, what timing should I be using for the PRO4 HD 4300?
i'm running the mmp w/ the pro4 hd motor. i've got 0 or 4 degrees timing in the esc. running a 16 tooth pinion and temps are 150. small/ medium track. decent traction. running 6min mains no problem w/ a 6000mah battery. i think i have 20% punch control also in the esc. i know the hd doesn't like timing or wheel spin. heats up fast with either. hopefully that helps ya.
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:59 AM
  #11477  
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Question for anyone using the savox 1258tg. Can you show a pic of how the horn is attaching to the servo? Mine is not looking right and I am not sure how I can get it level to work correctly
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:02 AM
  #11478  
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So anyone here having any wobble issues with the aluminum front drive shaft? My steel one is about done I think it has a lot of wobble and I added o rings to quiet it down.

Does the aluminum also bend like the stock steel one? If it lasts longer than the stocker even that is fine.

Grid any news on the titanium one for a sct as well? I know they are making one for the buggy drive train.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:16 AM
  #11479  
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Originally Posted by Stabone
Question for anyone using the savox 1258tg. Can you show a pic of how the horn is attaching to the servo? Mine is not looking right and I am not sure how I can get it level to work correctly
I am using the Ofna aluminum horn with a 1258tg. Picture is when I had my DS1015 in there but it is exactly the same with the Savox servo. Just use washers to get it leveled properly:

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Old 06-24-2013, 12:18 PM
  #11480  
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Default Tekno RC takes 1st & 2nd @ RC Pro Ontario Rd2 - The Barn Yard




This past weekend was round 2 of the RCPro Ontario provincial series in Canada. The 100+ entry event was hosted by The Barn Yard in Stratford Ontario, 75 minutes west of Toronto. The track owner did a great job preparing for it's third RCPro event. The track offered a high speed back straight, good mix of table tops, step downs, ski jump, camel back and challenging woop section.

Under sunny warm sky's Rob Patch was able to put his Tekno RC SCT410 to TQ honors over me (Shawn Fraser) sitting in second. Rob was able to keep out front and stay out of trouble to finish the first two triple A main's in 1st. I took 1st in A3 and finished 2nd overall.
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:20 PM
  #11481  
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Any word on aluminum hubs?
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:24 PM
  #11482  
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Originally Posted by ravage
Any word on aluminum hubs?
Don't know why you'd need them. Truck is a heavy gurl already.
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:25 PM
  #11483  
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor
So anyone here having any wobble issues with the aluminum front drive shaft? My steel one is about done I think it has a lot of wobble and I added o rings to quiet it down.

Does the aluminum also bend like the stock steel one? If it lasts longer than the stocker even that is fine.

Grid any news on the titanium one for a sct as well? I know they are making one for the buggy drive train.
The aluminum shaft is not prone to bending like the steel shaft, highly recommend replacing the steel shaft with the aluminum one. The aluminum shaft is lighter as well which equals less rotating mass and lower COG.

-Thomas

Last edited by ZERTA RACING; 06-24-2013 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:31 PM
  #11484  
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Sorry to ask this but why are people saying to get the aluminum hexes on all four corners and ditch the old plastic ones. What's wrong with the plastic ones?
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:41 PM
  #11485  
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Originally Posted by 20LSU
Sorry to ask this but why are people saying to get the aluminum hexes on all four corners and ditch the old plastic ones. What's wrong with the plastic ones?
Hello,
The plastic are fine but they are prone to stripping out over time or if the wheel nuts some how back loose a little. It is just better to know that your hex's won't strip put in a race or practice(when this happens it usually strips the hex out on the wheel). TKR1654X will make the car 1mm wider on each side making the truck as wide a possible but still within the roar legal width. But TKR5171A is stock width.

-Thomas
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(858) 997-0833 Ex:2053
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:42 PM
  #11486  
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Some people reported that they strip. I own both and haven't needed to install the aluminum ones yet, and I've owned the truck since it release.
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:04 PM
  #11487  
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Hey Tekno brothers. Raced my truck for the first time this weekend. Now, my 4600 Pro4 motor was a screamer in my FT SC10 4x4 last year. Felt lazy in my Tekno, even before pinion and esc changes. Had to turn punch down a lot to keep temps in check which made it even less exciting. Thinking that I may need a ballsier motor. Thinking either the 4700 Hobbywing or 4300 Pro4 HD. If you had a 4600 Pro4 and switched to either of these, what are your thoughts and did either motor run cooler? The truck felt good otherwise but needs a little adjusting. Thanks fellas. As always, great info and great guys offering help on this thread.
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:10 PM
  #11488  
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Originally Posted by King DORK
Hey Tekno brothers. Raced my truck for the first time this weekend. Now, my 4600 Pro4 motor was a screamer in my FT SC10 4x4 last year. Felt lazy in my Tekno, even before pinion and esc changes. Had to turn punch down a lot to keep temps in check which made it even less exciting. Thinking that I may need a ballsier motor. Thinking either the 4700 Hobbywing or 4300 Pro4 HD. If you had a 4600 Pro4 and switched to either of these, what are your thoughts and did either motor run cooler? The truck felt good otherwise but needs a little adjusting. Thanks fellas. As always, great info and great guys offering help on this thread.
had the 4600 and went to 4300HD. big difference and the way to go.
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:16 PM
  #11489  
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Originally Posted by Mullet1
had the 4600 and went to 4300HD. big difference and the way to go.
Thanks Mullet! That's my initial thought. What pinion are you running? Does that motor run cooler than the 4600 Pro4? I'd think so since it doesn't have to work so hard to move this big girl, but I've seen other posters say that the 4300 HD runs hot. I run a Viper VTX8 esc and SMC 7200 batteries so I'm not concerned about my electronics being up to snuff. Thanks again man!
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:26 PM
  #11490  
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Originally Posted by King DORK
Hey Tekno brothers. Raced my truck for the first time this weekend. Now, my 4600 Pro4 motor was a screamer in my FT SC10 4x4 last year. Felt lazy in my Tekno, even before pinion and esc changes. Had to turn punch down a lot to keep temps in check which made it even less exciting. Thinking that I may need a ballsier motor. Thinking either the 4700 Hobbywing or 4300 Pro4 HD. If you had a 4600 Pro4 and switched to either of these, what are your thoughts and did either motor run cooler? The truck felt good otherwise but needs a little adjusting. Thanks fellas. As always, great info and great guys offering help on this thread.
I'd personally go with the 4000Kv hobbywing. Has a ton of torque and was super fast down the straight. I'm geared @ 18t and i was outrunning guys with the 4700Kv version on the straight. You really want something with torque to propel this heavy beast. Also, i've heard 4300Kv HD is a little too much for most people and some ended up selling them in favor of the 3500Kv version. I just don't like the feel of the 4600-4700 Kv motors in this truck.
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