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Originally Posted by superslow
(Post 11704756)
Is everyone running stock diff fluid what are they anyway
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Started my build and I installed the drivetrain. I found the rear center driveshaft (the short one) has no play. The front driveshaft has some play but the rear seems a little tight. There appears to be room (the dog bone is not bottomed out in the drive cup) but I can't move it back and forth like I can with the front shaft. Is this normally? will it loosen/free up after I run?
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Originally Posted by Shark413
(Post 11704909)
Started my build and I installed the drivetrain. I found the rear center driveshaft (the short one) has no play. The front driveshaft has some play but the rear seems a little tight. There appears to be room (the dog bone is not bottomed out in the drive cup) but I can't move it back and forth like I can with the front shaft. Is this normally? will it loosen/free up after I run?
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First run today. Had horrible speedo problems. The VTX8 just didn't like 2s. Wasted practice time and first qualy. Put RX8 in and qualed 5th out of 20 trucks. After getting punted in the main, stayed fifth. My buddy qualed 4th and finished 3rd. He loves the truck too.
Gotta learn how to chase traction. It went away badly, and I was stuck with a high bite setup. Think adding droop as the day goes on may be the answer. The track is crazy high bite clay, but dried out today. I have the droop down 5 mm from stock all the way around, and it rocks on high bite. As the days goes, I think I'll add some to get it back to stock. The truck was skatey in the main. What do you guys think? |
Originally Posted by sramos420
(Post 11704985)
Did you grind the pinion shaft flat spot out or shim as update suggests?
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...psaabba3fa.jpg Here is a shot of the rear shaft. You can see there appears to be clearance for the bone to move, but it is tight (i.e. no play). |
Rcmiket were you using the rear and center brace
And I have an 1/8th inch of rear dog bone play on my eb48 |
Originally Posted by Shark413
(Post 11705068)
Yes I ground the pinion shaft. The drive cup fits flush with the gear case. Like I said there seems to be clearance (between the short dog bone and the drive cups) it just seems the dog bone is kind of tight in the drive cup and I can't move it back and forth. With the front center shaft I can move it back and forth about 4mm's. I guess I need to take the center diff off and check the rear dog bone plunge and see if the bone is sticking in the drive cup.
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...psaabba3fa.jpg Here is a shot of the rear shaft. You can see there appears to be clearance for the bone to move, but it is tight (i.e. no play). |
Originally Posted by sramos420
(Post 11704676)
seems like both charts are correct. there both referencing to the CST wt which in that case losi 35 and losi 27 1/2 would be closest to there (teknos)#450 and #350 shock oils. and if thats the case it looks as if losi is actually a lil heavier then ae which i always thought it was the other way. seems losi vs ae are pretty similar on first chart. but if your looking to compare to a CST weighted oil you would pick the 2 1/2 lighter oil to better match up the CST rating.....can some one else shed some light on this
....and that second chart is from kyosho, i bet if losi made/had one it would prolly be diff because there referencing oils to there own......im confusing myself You are making it way too difficult LOL!!! AE is thicker (Scale wise) than Losi according to everything I have read and that chart I posted as a quick reference. Look at the chart.....a Losi's equivalent of 25wt AE is 27.5. It takes a thicker Losi oil (27.5) to equal the same weight AE (25) I can't help you on the Tekno stuff. |
Originally Posted by fireflysti
(Post 11704506)
thanks
That's correct, Sean... it is the FTW Diambondback, body. FTW did an awesome job with the lines on it and look even better in person. Pyro (https://www.facebook.com/scott.beran) is one of the best painters in the world (does lots of the Pros' lids)... lucky to have him living right here in the 'Natti. I can at least look fast. :) Sean, haven't had time to catch up on this thread, did you get your issues resolved? If not, meet me up at the Factory on Thursday night and I am sure we can figure it out. |
So are the team guys not running center and rear brace?
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Originally Posted by umpy907
(Post 11705270)
So are the team guys not running center and rear brace?
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Originally Posted by sramos420
(Post 11703041)
I use the inside to increase the mechanical resolution of the steering. By having a shorter arm on the servo the servo has to turn more to achieve the same degree of overall steering. Here's an exaggerated pic of what I'm talking about.
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/...ps98f35f65.jpg so by your explanation does that make it softer? i guess what im asking is how/will i feel a difference on my wheel when im steering? SO( -X-) SCTE owners whats the verdict???I think this truck is the real competition for the Losi so that's who I would like to hear from AS FAR AS A COMPARISON.Thanx!! |
I ran mine bone stock today except the rear hubs with outer for camber. Trucks better than my lightened scte for sure. Its more nimble but more stable as well. Think its because of the shocks. Overall very happy with it.
I had horrible luck with the wheels though. They stripped the plastics kept coming loose (used premount gridirons SS). Is the losi aluminum hexes a direct bolt on? Also the servo horn is junk stripped in one whack. Put the tlr in and its golden. Ran a 16 pinion and temps are fine but will need a fan in summer. Ran a 18T as well but ESC was going nuts HW scte pro with 4000 kv hobbywing. I might run the tekin 3300 with 3s and rx8 for more speed maybe. Overall I love this truck!! Thanks tekno!! |
Is everybody else's truck a bit noisy I'm used to my Durango it was very quit so wasn't sure if a little noisy was normal.
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what size are the turnbuckles?
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