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-   -   Tekno SCT410 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/676777-tekno-sct410-thread.html)

Matthew_Armeni 01-20-2013 01:14 PM


Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo (Post 11702597)
The 3 MUST DO's for all you first time builders and maybe former owners of other trucks:
1: Make sure you shim the center driveline
2: Change the cap head screw on the steering link under the front wheel to a button head screw
3: Your pinion gear will be 2 teeth higher than your other truck

On #2 - I think if you just take out all 4 of the bumpsteer washers you should be able to keep running a cap head screw without rubbing the wheel.

sramos 01-20-2013 01:19 PM


Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni (Post 11703009)
im using the same horn, my question is, im using the outside hole on horn and i see your using the inside hole? i tried to match my length with the horns that were supplied and the outside hole seemed the same length. What is the difference (pros/cons) of running on inside or outside hole?

I use the inside to increase the mechanical resolution of the steering. By having a shorter arm on the servo the servo has to turn more to achieve the same degree of overall steering. Here's an exaggerated pic of what I'm talking about.
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/...ps98f35f65.jpg

so by your explanation does that make it softer? i guess what im asking is how/will i feel a difference on my wheel when im steering?

sffan15 01-20-2013 01:38 PM


Originally Posted by sramos420 (Post 11703041)
I use the inside to increase the mechanical resolution of the steering. By having a shorter arm on the servo the servo has to turn more to achieve the same degree of overall steering. Here's an exaggerated pic of what I'm talking about.
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/...ps98f35f65.jpg

so by your explanation does that make it softer? i guess what im asking is how/will i feel a difference on my wheel when im steering?

You'll have to turn the wheel further to get the truck's wheels to turn the same amount, assuming same electronic adjustments are kept (EPA, dual rate, etc). Since most of us take away from the servo's full range via EPA, this actually makes sense to do.

mdmaxx 01-20-2013 01:49 PM

my sct is all built. Just waiting on esc/motor. Build went smooth. I used the washers on the pinion gear. directions in the manual were good.

sramos 01-20-2013 01:52 PM


Originally Posted by sffan15 (Post 11703117)
You'll have to turn the wheel further to get the truck's wheels to turn the same amount, assuming same electronic adjustments are kept (EPA, dual rate, etc). Since most of us take away from the servo's full range via EPA, this actually makes sense to do.

still confused lol.......tryin to picture mechanically in my head. with a shorter arm ill have to turn wheel further? long or short arm will be more twitchy. confusing me haha

Stealth_RT 01-20-2013 02:04 PM


Originally Posted by Bernard_Jr (Post 11702378)
I just finished building the truck yesterday a.m. and drove it for the first time at a truck race we held down at Go Hard Raceway in Green Cove Springs. The track, pictured below, is a large outdoor clay track that we run 1/10 and 1/8 on. This layout was just finished this week so it was loose through practice and the first round of qualifying. There were just shy of 30 4x4 SC entries at the race.

Attachment 1020199

Slightly off topic, but your track's scoring system is whacked. It's showing the top 5 and top 10 average laps as being ~5 seconds faster than your single fastest lap. Average lap times will always be slower than your single fastest lap. How much slower, depends on your consistency. You ought to tell your race director to fix that, so you can have a real idea of your driving consistency. I always prefered the other scoring software that actually prints out a consistency number, instead of top 5 average lap times.

Back on topic :)

sffan15 01-20-2013 02:09 PM


Originally Posted by sramos420 (Post 11703179)
still confused lol.......tryin to picture mechanically in my head. with a shorter arm ill have to turn wheel further? long or short arm will be more twitchy. confusing me haha

Long should be more twitchy. Let me help (values below are not real, just to visualize further):

Radio wheel angle - Car steering angle, shorter hole - Car steering angle, longer hole
0deg - 0deg - 0deg
10deg - 8deg - 10deg
20deg - 16deg - 20deg
Etc.

jhautz 01-20-2013 02:36 PM

A longer servo arm will have the same effect on the feel as a faster servo with lower torque. A shorter arm will have the same effect as a slower servo with more torque.

justpoet 01-20-2013 02:41 PM

Regarding the timing software, our track uses the same, and I haven't noticed this issue. I *think* the issue here is that it is correctly not including the first lap (a couple seconds) at the start for fastest lap, but on their race results IS including it in the top 5 and top 10 calculations.

As for the servo screw hole thing. Further out will be more twitchy (and where you would put it if you had a high torque but slower servo with limited travel). Further in will be less twitchy (and where you'd put it if you had a low torque servo that was fast with plenty of travel).

With my servo, while it was lightning fast on the outside, it didn't really get me anything, since my servo is a .08 anyway, except some glitching on rare occasions. Moving it inward left me with an easier to steer rig (using more of the full travel and turning EPA's down less), no brownout glitching (less amp draw since it is easier on the servo to move further than to work harder moving a smaller distance), and still plenty fast.

I run a racer's edge metal clamping servo arm (what was in stock when I stripped the plastic SCTE one a while back) that is similar to the one pictured, but a little taller, so I added a shim.

suby723 01-20-2013 04:18 PM

Is the stock shock oil 37.5 for front and 30 for rear? Tekno finished 1st and 2nd today at nor cal hobbies.

JoeC 01-20-2013 04:23 PM

What body are most of you running with this?

sramos 01-20-2013 04:31 PM


Originally Posted by JoeC (Post 11703782)
What body are most of you running with this?

im running the jconcepts x-flow body now. fits well. i have a FTW diamondback body out getting painted right now and im curious how thats gonna look. that body is awesome if you havent seen it before. ill post pics when ever he gets it done

sramos 01-20-2013 04:33 PM


Originally Posted by suby723 (Post 11703744)
Is the stock shock oil 37.5 for front and 30 for rear? Tekno finished 1st and 2nd today at nor cal hobbies.

i believe that is the losi equivalent. AE equvalent would be 35fr 27.5 rr.........can tekno confirm this??

Matthew_Armeni 01-20-2013 04:51 PM


Originally Posted by suby723 (Post 11703744)
Is the stock shock oil 37.5 for front and 30 for rear? Tekno finished 1st and 2nd today at nor cal hobbies.


Originally Posted by sramos420 (Post 11703841)
i believe that is the losi equivalent. AE equvalent would be 35fr 27.5 rr.........can tekno confirm this??

Should be Losi 35 and Associated 37.5 for the front, Losi 27.5 and Associated 30 for the rear. 450 cSt front and 350 cSt rear. Honestly though, starting within 5 wt of those should be fine for your first runs. Use that as a starting point and tune from there.

Syldain 01-20-2013 05:14 PM

Just waiting on my esc....

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...1-19210129.jpg


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