Originally Posted by USMC STONE

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Unfortunately you will more than likely need a lot more than a club point series victory to get any sponsors especially if only 4-5 people are even in the running in the point series at your local track. You will need to travel to major events and series and also win those and win often against much stiffer competition than you will see at any local track. I know someone that has even won the roar 1/8 buggy/truggy and Sc series and state races in our area and He is lucky to get 50-75%. OS won't sponsor him. Plus if your old like me then they aren't really interested

Originally Posted by justpoet

As others have mentioned, having stiffer springs on hand is a really good idea. As for how much stiffer and how much thicker on oil or smaller/fewer holes on pistons, that will depend largely on how smooth and high bite the indoor clay is.

Having 8x1.3 pistons to try is good and you can make 8x1.2's to test with by gluing 2 holes on the stock 10x1.2 together if you think you need even more pack than the 8x1.3.

I personally like the CF shock towers a lot, as they help to lower the CG a bit and make traction rolling less likely. If I were on super loose conditions though, I'd keep the stockers (or more likely get the EB48 thicker ones) so I had the roll to put more weight on the outside and get some grip.

I really like the extra oomph I got from switching to the al driveshaft. Most would recommend NOT changing out the chassis, as you want the weight lower to counteract the body's weight up high.

If you don't have huge 1/8 jumps that make other 10th scales cry in fear of breaking, also give the air guards a shot.

My wife's truck runs mostly the bary baker setup with yellow Tekno springs all around, both indoors on packed dirt (medium bite when in great damp condition) and outdoors on our super high grip (might as well be sandpaper surface) with reasonable results.
I run 2 different setups, but after my last outdoor podium I stopped working on that setup further as it is now time to go indoors. I didn't think it was worthy of posting yet, but it basically boiled down to putting the rear and center braces back in, changing a rear camber link, putting the rear hubs all the way back, using stiffer front springs, stiffer anti-sway bars, and limiting droop more than normal. I normally run Tekno yellow in the rear with Kyosho orange up front for indoor and Kyosho light blue up front for outdoor (Tekno Yellow is closest to light blue).

I would suggest having some stiffer sway bars around to try messing with too. You can achieve similar results in some areas by just swapping springs, just swapping pistons, just swapping fluids, or just swapping sway bars...but other areas will change a bit different depending on which you use.

Originally Posted by BOLISARIO

Thanks for your help, much appreciated!

The SCT410 is in my shopping cart as we speak, los like I'm going to be a Tekno owner very soon.

Is the build pretty straightforward and no mods or changes needed? Unlike some other kits where you have trim a part here or add a washer here,etc.

Originally Posted by XRated SCT

build is good to go, only thing is rear inner camber link screws need to be reversed, check out first page, also I'd get the aluminum servo horn and aluminum hexes

Originally Posted by fq06

Also add in the new angled rear diff case and the 2 larger 5x13x4mm bearings for it.
Its not necessary, but a nice upgrade that you won't have to do later since your building it, might as well. Check gear mesh but you probably won't need washers next to the bearings with the angled rear diff like you do with the standard front diff.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Angled-Gearbox

The build is very straight forward, nothing needed other than what's in the manual and like xrated mentioned check the 1st page of this thread for the rear camber screw mod and also which side guards go where.

Originally Posted by BOLISARIO

Thanks fellas, I'll add those parts to the list.

Too bad we can't add a sticky to the first post for all the mods,tips, updated parts,etc.

Originally Posted by cpt_RedBeard

I got my BCE Tekno T1 Pro Chassis in the mail today.

First impression was wow.. Beautiful finish and milling.

The chassis feels lighter (no scale sorry) and is defiantly different. The battery back is slid back in the chassis thus requiring the battery tray to be modified. Also a good note is that you must start with a standard battery tray and cut it.

Side by side comparison


A look at how far back the battery is moved. Black sock chassis under BCE chassis


Shot of area up front of battery tray that needs modifying


Shot of rear (mech brake area) that needs cut off


Shot of chassis after battery side tray mod


Final completion shot



I'm going to try to get some testing in wednesday night, but if not I will be running the chassis this weekend for sure. I'll report back on my impressions.

Originally Posted by Lazi

I`m new on this tread so i don`t want to be harsh on any body but this whole battery tray mod is just for who too lazy to work a little bit on the suspension setups!

Originally Posted by Lazi

I`m new on this tread so i don`t want to be harsh on any body but this whole battery tray mod is just for who too lazy to work a little bit on the suspension setups! i got the sct410 last week and the first run YES my car was nose diving bad! but after a few small change voila the car jumping great and even parachuting but easier to bring the noise down with brake, than bringing up with throttle punch!
i will post my setup sheet if u like. the track was 140x70 perfect for both sct or ebuggy!
oh i forget to tell! i was tq and winning both sct410 and eb48 last weekend.

btw: i`m pretty sure before tekno release the sct410, teat it for a few months, and if they have the nose dive issue they will fix that before putting on the market! its a well made car for sure!