I agree to a point. I know when I am at the track for practice or testing a setup I am not going as hard as I would in a main. You really never know how long a battery will last untill you put it in a main and run it. I would see what others use at your track and use that as a guide line to what you should get. If I had to throw out a guess a 6000mah-7500mah would be a good area to be in. That is my opinion.

Of course. The obvious default answer with no other details today is roughly 7200 regardless (if you ignore weight savings), as that's as good as batteries get currently.

SPC makes a really good, low price 8200 mAh 2S lipo that works great in 4wd SCT. It's not a hard case lipo, but unless you're going to a ROAR race, who cares?

BCE Chassis Build
 

Got my pretty BCE chassis from Bill yesterday and sat down for a 3 hour wrench session. Went together perfectly specs are factory (kickup,holes line up exactly of course)! Chassis is beautifully machined and light weight, around 221 grams. Also upgraded to the team sr carbon towers since the stockers were bent. Heres a few pics. I got my chassis by posting a question on their site here https://shop.bcespeed.com/contactus.sc. I believe they still have a few available for interested people.
Intial impressions are the chassis is very flexible . Going to run with rear front braces on recommendation from Bill! RTR car weight 6.4 pounds, but I think it will not need the extra weight to settle her down. It almost made me think of my touring car but without a top deck. Went with the Matt Wolter setup but with less rear toe to increase corner speed. My main setup issue with the tekno was locking the rear with that much toe. Really looking forward to testing with 3.5 degree rear toe today!
http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...psb41cfb0d.jpg
http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps3866689a.jpg
http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps82ccd679.jpg

looking forward to know what you think on the 1.2mm x 8 hole pistons.


As for the lightweight chassis style setups, would be cool if there was a way to still run the air guards in some manner unless I am missing something?

Hi Cain, Sorry I Haven't had much time to input here, as of now we are trying
many setups, and configurations, so we can achieve the most from
different combinations. I have been receiving many pics and info.
just need to get it up for you all to see.:)
Here is one of our Team drivers Jason Moberlys setups with full guards and air control. He will check in soon with alot of his experiences? tips.
If any of you Tek Guys that would like info questions just drop us a line via
our site, I can say we are really enjoying working with the Tekno line up
from all of our testers, racers. They like the SC and Buggy very much
Great Job Tekno:nod:

(Jason Moberleys Proto with Air Control and full side guards)
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...moberlytek.jpg

Not sure I'd go that far. If my old SC10.2 could turn like a Tekno it would've been the tits. That conversion was like a real Pro4 short course. Suspension soaked up any bump and any jump.
But my fondness for the Tekno is growing with more track time.

Hey Guys,
On the box setup, where do I position the front shocks? In the build directions it says to put them on the outside on the arm. In the back of the manual on the setup sheet it says the middel like the rear...hmmmm?

I have mine setup from the build instructions, which had it in the center of the 4 holes.

+1 I run these packs and I have no problem making 10 min mains.

hey guys has any one got a good setup for this type of track I race on for the sct410

+2 SPC 8200's are the only game in town for 10 minute mains!! Love em!!

They are also very small in size, and pretty dang light for their capacity

Tire compound with some 2,4-d or roundup mixed in :lol:

we try that the dame thing keep commign back lol

Well I raced my truck yesterday for the first time..
VTX8 with a 4000 Hw motor...16t, and SMC 7200... Very low temps on motor/esc/battery in a 10 min. main with no problems.. Could go up to 17t-18t if needed but had plenty of top end and lots of punch before the jumps.. This is a large 1/8th scale track here in Ga.
I have the truck set up with factory specs (except for the battery mod) just to see how it goes and BOY does it like to nose dive but you can really turn it on around corners.. Had to add 1.5oz of weight to the rear to help it in the rough ass woops the track has but will need to fix the nose diving..
I have read for awhile now that anything from yellow, pink, orange, for the front and green or red in the rear with 8 hole piston and less weight oils... Man this is going to be a pain to get right since I can only race twice a month..........lol