248LikesXray XB4 thread
02-28-2018, 09:09 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
My '17 was the same way. As others have stated, a 68mm dog bone on the left side fixes the problem.
02-28-2018, 09:16 AM
02-28-2018, 10:14 AM
On carpet/turf, all the YZ4sf's do this forward/back yaw thing that they get rid of only by making the front so stiff the car tends to push; either way, a yaw or a push leads to less cornerspeed. On loose dirt though, that can generate grip. For 13.5, the XB4's composite internals for the diffs are nice to have, less so for mod on extreme grip carpet. I would take Yokomo's shocks over Xray's though and I'm not fond of Xray's 1 for the price of 2 spare parts pricing model either.
However, for me, all the tracks in my area are artificial surface and almost all the racing is 13.5, the choice was easily the XB4. I don't really like spec racing ($$$
) so I run a motor/battery setup in that class that isn't really the fastest but my cornspeed advantage over all the Yokomo's is great enough that unless there's enough straight for the ones of those running power setups cranked to 11 to make it back up on the straight, I can as often as not win with what is the slowest car in the a-main power-wise. YMMV.
02-28-2018, 03:02 PM
Tech Regular
I've driven both and own a XB4 but use a YZ2 as my 2w buggy so I'm very familiar with both brands. The answer is, as is often the case, it depends. What surface/class?
On carpet/turf, all the YZ4sf's do this forward/back yaw thing that they get rid of only by making the front so stiff the car tends to push; either way, a yaw or a push leads to less cornerspeed. On loose dirt though, that can generate grip. For 13.5, the XB4's composite internals for the diffs are nice to have, less so for mod on extreme grip carpet. I would take Yokomo's shocks over Xray's though and I'm not fond of Xray's 1 for the price of 2 spare parts pricing model either.
However, for me, all the tracks in my area are artificial surface and almost all the racing is 13.5, the choice was easily the XB4. I don't really like spec racing ($$$ ) so I run a motor/battery setup in that class that isn't really the fastest but my cornspeed advantage over all the Yokomo's is great enough that unless there's enough straight for the ones of those running power setups cranked to 11 to make it back up on the straight, I can as often as not win with what is the slowest car in the a-main power-wise. YMMV.
On carpet/turf, all the YZ4sf's do this forward/back yaw thing that they get rid of only by making the front so stiff the car tends to push; either way, a yaw or a push leads to less cornerspeed. On loose dirt though, that can generate grip. For 13.5, the XB4's composite internals for the diffs are nice to have, less so for mod on extreme grip carpet. I would take Yokomo's shocks over Xray's though and I'm not fond of Xray's 1 for the price of 2 spare parts pricing model either.
However, for me, all the tracks in my area are artificial surface and almost all the racing is 13.5, the choice was easily the XB4. I don't really like spec racing ($$$
) so I run a motor/battery setup in that class that isn't really the fastest but my cornspeed advantage over all the Yokomo's is great enough that unless there's enough straight for the ones of those running power setups cranked to 11 to make it back up on the straight, I can as often as not win with what is the slowest car in the a-main power-wise. YMMV.
03-01-2018, 02:02 AM
OK hope I remember everything here questioned...
Shock are same length, or they were prior to experiencing the drive shaft popping out. Even with the same internal spacers, left side still drooped lower.
Everything is straight, no binding issues.
Camber links on tower are in the same holes.
So even with shocks removed, the left arm droops down more. Without the shocks attached all that stops the arm is the drive shaft collar hitting on the arm. This leads me to think it might be in the hubs or arm not being the same.
And now you guys got me thinking about having to use a longer shaft on one side. So Measured the diff by seeing how far the outdrives stick out from the housing. An wala...there is a 1 mm difference, with the left side (gear side) being shorter.
Then I measured how far the outdrives cup stick out past the bearing and wala...1 mm shorter on the gear side..nearly the same as the drive shaft hangs out.
I even measured each outdrive and they are the same length, so that would not be the issue.
The only difference between the gear side and diff case side is that there is a bushing on the gear side. Though I can not feel any play (slop) in the bushing, I am thinking this is where the difference is at.
So next step will be to get another bushing and measure the thickness of facing that touches the bearing. (Unless someone has a new one laying around they can measure)
Though I do not think it has wore 1 mm since new...who knows, I only raced it maybe ten times.
If it turns out to be the same as new, then two options would be to either by the longer driveshaft, or add 1mm shims on the outdrive shaft to push it out. This will not effect the bearing as the bearing seats on the bevel gear not the bushing.
I just hope this leaves enough shaft to lock into the internal bevel gear.
Shock are same length, or they were prior to experiencing the drive shaft popping out. Even with the same internal spacers, left side still drooped lower.
Everything is straight, no binding issues.
Camber links on tower are in the same holes.
So even with shocks removed, the left arm droops down more. Without the shocks attached all that stops the arm is the drive shaft collar hitting on the arm. This leads me to think it might be in the hubs or arm not being the same.
And now you guys got me thinking about having to use a longer shaft on one side. So Measured the diff by seeing how far the outdrives stick out from the housing. An wala...there is a 1 mm difference, with the left side (gear side) being shorter.
Then I measured how far the outdrives cup stick out past the bearing and wala...1 mm shorter on the gear side..nearly the same as the drive shaft hangs out.
I even measured each outdrive and they are the same length, so that would not be the issue.
The only difference between the gear side and diff case side is that there is a bushing on the gear side. Though I can not feel any play (slop) in the bushing, I am thinking this is where the difference is at.
So next step will be to get another bushing and measure the thickness of facing that touches the bearing. (Unless someone has a new one laying around they can measure)
Though I do not think it has wore 1 mm since new...who knows, I only raced it maybe ten times.
If it turns out to be the same as new, then two options would be to either by the longer driveshaft, or add 1mm shims on the outdrive shaft to push it out. This will not effect the bearing as the bearing seats on the bevel gear not the bushing.
I just hope this leaves enough shaft to lock into the internal bevel gear.
03-01-2018, 04:28 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
If this is a known issue which seems to be because others have already said they have the same problem of having to run a longer drive shaft on one side then why hasn't Xray fixed it?
Last edited by roysays; 03-01-2018 at 04:51 AM.
03-01-2018, 05:16 AM
OK hope I remember everything here questioned...
Shock are same length, or they were prior to experiencing the drive shaft popping out. Even with the same internal spacers, left side still drooped lower.
Everything is straight, no binding issues.
Camber links on tower are in the same holes.
So even with shocks removed, the left arm droops down more. Without the shocks attached all that stops the arm is the drive shaft collar hitting on the arm. This leads me to think it might be in the hubs or arm not being the same.
And now you guys got me thinking about having to use a longer shaft on one side. So Measured the diff by seeing how far the outdrives stick out from the housing. An wala...there is a 1 mm difference, with the left side (gear side) being shorter.
Then I measured how far the outdrives cup stick out past the bearing and wala...1 mm shorter on the gear side..nearly the same as the drive shaft hangs out.
I even measured each outdrive and they are the same length, so that would not be the issue.
The only difference between the gear side and diff case side is that there is a bushing on the gear side. Though I can not feel any play (slop) in the bushing, I am thinking this is where the difference is at.
So next step will be to get another bushing and measure the thickness of facing that touches the bearing. (Unless someone has a new one laying around they can measure)
Though I do not think it has wore 1 mm since new...who knows, I only raced it maybe ten times.
If it turns out to be the same as new, then two options would be to either by the longer driveshaft, or add 1mm shims on the outdrive shaft to push it out. This will not effect the bearing as the bearing seats on the bevel gear not the bushing.
I just hope this leaves enough shaft to lock into the internal bevel gear.
Shock are same length, or they were prior to experiencing the drive shaft popping out. Even with the same internal spacers, left side still drooped lower.
Everything is straight, no binding issues.
Camber links on tower are in the same holes.
So even with shocks removed, the left arm droops down more. Without the shocks attached all that stops the arm is the drive shaft collar hitting on the arm. This leads me to think it might be in the hubs or arm not being the same.
And now you guys got me thinking about having to use a longer shaft on one side. So Measured the diff by seeing how far the outdrives stick out from the housing. An wala...there is a 1 mm difference, with the left side (gear side) being shorter.
Then I measured how far the outdrives cup stick out past the bearing and wala...1 mm shorter on the gear side..nearly the same as the drive shaft hangs out.
I even measured each outdrive and they are the same length, so that would not be the issue.
The only difference between the gear side and diff case side is that there is a bushing on the gear side. Though I can not feel any play (slop) in the bushing, I am thinking this is where the difference is at.
So next step will be to get another bushing and measure the thickness of facing that touches the bearing. (Unless someone has a new one laying around they can measure)
Though I do not think it has wore 1 mm since new...who knows, I only raced it maybe ten times.
If it turns out to be the same as new, then two options would be to either by the longer driveshaft, or add 1mm shims on the outdrive shaft to push it out. This will not effect the bearing as the bearing seats on the bevel gear not the bushing.
I just hope this leaves enough shaft to lock into the internal bevel gear.
03-01-2018, 06:55 AM
something else to consider.. sometimes the arms get tweaked.. they can bend, and not break.. i have had it on my XB8, where the droop setting is different on one side than the other..
when you lay the arms on the table.. they arent exactly the same angles.. or in my case of the XB8, they were truly flat.
also.. although the arms are made in batches.. sometimes the plastic will cure differently.. be shorter.. or something.
To me.. in the picture.. looks like possibly one of the arms may not be as straight as the other..
when you lay the arms on the table.. they arent exactly the same angles.. or in my case of the XB8, they were truly flat.
also.. although the arms are made in batches.. sometimes the plastic will cure differently.. be shorter.. or something.
To me.. in the picture.. looks like possibly one of the arms may not be as straight as the other..
03-01-2018, 12:14 PM
Looking for an XB4 2016, 2017, or 2018 if anyone has one in good shape please give me a text at 909-490-975eight
03-01-2018, 01:31 PM
03-01-2018, 03:17 PM
something else to consider.. sometimes the arms get tweaked.. they can bend, and not break.. i have had it on my XB8, where the droop setting is different on one side than the other..
when you lay the arms on the table.. they arent exactly the same angles.. or in my case of the XB8, they were truly flat.
also.. although the arms are made in batches.. sometimes the plastic will cure differently.. be shorter.. or something.
To me.. in the picture.. looks like possibly one of the arms may not be as straight as the other..
when you lay the arms on the table.. they arent exactly the same angles.. or in my case of the XB8, they were truly flat.
also.. although the arms are made in batches.. sometimes the plastic will cure differently.. be shorter.. or something.
To me.. in the picture.. looks like possibly one of the arms may not be as straight as the other..
03-02-2018, 11:25 PM
Tech Adept
anyone have a suspension recommendation for low traction very bumpy tracks?
Car is running great but i just cant get it to settle like my other cars. Its quicker than my AE but if much more of a handful to drive.
Running stock springs and 550cst/500cst shock oil.
Any ideas?
Car is running great but i just cant get it to settle like my other cars. Its quicker than my AE but if much more of a handful to drive.
Running stock springs and 550cst/500cst shock oil.
Any ideas?
03-03-2018, 03:24 PM
I've driven both and own a XB4 but use a YZ2 as my 2w buggy so I'm very familiar with both brands. The answer is, as is often the case, it depends. What surface/class?
On carpet/turf, all the YZ4sf's do this forward/back yaw thing that they get rid of only by making the front so stiff the car tends to push; either way, a yaw or a push leads to less cornerspeed. On loose dirt though, that can generate grip. For 13.5, the XB4's composite internals for the diffs are nice to have, less so for mod on extreme grip carpet. I would take Yokomo's shocks over Xray's though and I'm not fond of Xray's 1 for the price of 2 spare parts pricing model either.
However, for me, all the tracks in my area are artificial surface and almost all the racing is 13.5, the choice was easily the XB4. I don't really like spec racing ($$$ ) so I run a motor/battery setup in that class that isn't really the fastest but my cornspeed advantage over all the Yokomo's is great enough that unless there's enough straight for the ones of those running power setups cranked to 11 to make it back up on the straight, I can as often as not win with what is the slowest car in the a-main power-wise. YMMV.
On carpet/turf, all the YZ4sf's do this forward/back yaw thing that they get rid of only by making the front so stiff the car tends to push; either way, a yaw or a push leads to less cornerspeed. On loose dirt though, that can generate grip. For 13.5, the XB4's composite internals for the diffs are nice to have, less so for mod on extreme grip carpet. I would take Yokomo's shocks over Xray's though and I'm not fond of Xray's 1 for the price of 2 spare parts pricing model either.
However, for me, all the tracks in my area are artificial surface and almost all the racing is 13.5, the choice was easily the XB4. I don't really like spec racing ($$$
) so I run a motor/battery setup in that class that isn't really the fastest but my cornspeed advantage over all the Yokomo's is great enough that unless there's enough straight for the ones of those running power setups cranked to 11 to make it back up on the straight, I can as often as not win with what is the slowest car in the a-main power-wise. YMMV.So the Yokomo is better on clay or outdoors on looser dirt?
03-04-2018, 06:46 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Ty and his xb4 dominated 4wd today at the cactus classic. The turn after the triple looked like a tough one especially w/ a 2wd.
03-05-2018, 06:26 AM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
anyone have a suspension recommendation for low traction very bumpy tracks?
Car is running great but i just cant get it to settle like my other cars. Its quicker than my AE but if much more of a handful to drive.
Running stock springs and 550cst/500cst shock oil.
Any ideas?
Car is running great but i just cant get it to settle like my other cars. Its quicker than my AE but if much more of a handful to drive.
Running stock springs and 550cst/500cst shock oil.
Any ideas?