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Old 11-02-2016, 07:48 AM   #11581
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if you are running center diff with thin diff grease, it will be easy to drive but front tires wear lot faster. with thin I mean 50-200k oil.
try it with 300k-1M and you will feel the difference in jumping, acceleration and more even tire wear.
I run 500k on indoor clay and I notice more front tire wear, i figure some of that is from steering but I also can feel the front end pulling my car and spinning a bit. I wonder if it would be worth running 1M or not?


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i run a 5.5t with a WTF Windy as well - I can run 20 minutes and come off at 140. If I run 5-10 mins usually come off in the 130's. Without the fan the motor gets up to the 160-170 range during long practice sessions and about 150 during a 7 min main.
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Old 11-02-2016, 08:05 AM   #11582
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So, I have a 1st gen XB4, is there any way to convert it to a 16' edition or is it better to just buy a new?
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Old 11-02-2016, 08:18 AM   #11583
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So, I have a 1st gen XB4, is there any way to convert it to a 16' edition or is it better to just buy a new?
DEFINITELY BUY NEW.

If you upgrade the original you're going to replace practically every part besides a few and it will cost you $1,000 bucks and then you still have old bearings and drive pins and diff gears, etc...

even though the cars look similar, mostly everything has been updated now, the bulkheads, the chassis, the towers, the motor mount and position, the center driveshafts, etc etc...
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Old 11-02-2016, 09:52 AM   #11584
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Martin Bayer's new setup I saw online has the pills facing up in both front hangers and down in the rear hangers. I've always had somewhat matching roll centers with he pills. Has anyone tried this and what does it achieve? Thx all
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Old 11-02-2016, 09:57 AM   #11585
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Originally Posted by Peakki View Post
if you are running center diff with thin diff grease, it will be easy to drive but front tires wear lot faster. with thin I mean 50-200k oil.
try it with 300k-1M and you will feel the difference in jumping, acceleration and more even tire wear.
Even when running the slipper, I have always noticed the front tires wearing significantly faster than the rears. Seems to be a wheeler thing, my 1:8 scale tires wear pretty evenly on the same track.
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Old 11-02-2016, 10:03 AM   #11586
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Martin Bayer's new setup I saw online has the pills facing up in both front hangers and down in the rear hangers. I've always had somewhat matching roll centers with he pills. Has anyone tried this and what does it achieve? Thx all
He still runs down in front and up in rear as we always do on EOS carpet.

We do however adjust from 1 to 3 degrees toe in the rear depending on track layout (tight to open).

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Old 11-02-2016, 10:23 AM   #11587
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We do however adjust from 1 to 3 degrees toe in the rear depending on track layout (tight to open).

Bent
Bent could you explain the rear toe on tight to open? I'm assuming you run less toe in on tight tracks?
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Old 11-02-2016, 10:42 AM   #11588
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Bent could you explain the rear toe on tight to open? I'm assuming you run less toe in on tight tracks?
Less toe gives better corner speed and quicker rotation on high grip tracks like the ones using EOS carpet

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Old 11-02-2016, 11:06 AM   #11589
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Bent - this may be a loaded question but can you explain when you have the rear pills facing downward vs upward etc? Which conditions? I run anything from medium bite to super high bite clay. Thx very much
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Less toe gives better corner speed and quicker rotation on high grip tracks like the ones using EOS carpet

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Old 11-02-2016, 11:36 AM   #11590
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Bent - this may be a loaded question but can you explain when you have the rear pills facing downward vs upward etc? Which conditions? I run anything from medium bite to super high bite clay. Thx very much
A very basic explanation would be;

Pills down gives more roll and traction.

Pills up gives less roll and takes away traction.

So we run them down in the front to add steering and up in the rear to free it up to add rotation.

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Old 11-02-2016, 11:40 AM   #11591
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^^ Perfect: thank you!
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Old 11-02-2016, 12:20 PM   #11592
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yup this is exactly what i do on carpet i found it to be the best on my own after testing.

on clay i go either 0 or up .5 in the front and down in the rear. this improves rear traction and reduces over steer. if you go from sliding out and over steering then bring the front back down to 0 and it should be good.

On a side note is anyone having trouble cracking the 12mm XRAY Aerodisk wheels?

My track added a new big triple and I started noticing all my front wheels cracking - I keep gluing them for now but I'm wondering if it's just bound to happen no matter what wheel or maybe if the XRAY wheels are a tad thinner or what.
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Last edited by lyons238; 11-02-2016 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 11-02-2016, 01:19 PM   #11593
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On clay large shims on spindles on top or bottom for more aggressive steering mid turn?
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Old 11-02-2016, 01:33 PM   #11594
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On clay large shims on spindles on top or bottom for more aggressive steering mid turn?
mine are on top i believe so i don't think that's the issue. i think it's just hard landings - but im wondering if the xray wheels flex too much compared to other wheels or if it will happen regardless.

the add page says they wont crack lol and im cracking them left and right. granted it is a HUGE triple with very a slim margin for a smooth landing...
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Old 11-02-2016, 01:47 PM   #11595
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Center Diff question, I've been trying to read thru and follow thru the pages when I can.
I see that the Center Diff comes with Composite Gears and Composite Cross pin, is there an option for buying metal center diff gears and pins?

I run on medium-high bite tracks if that helps out.

Also contemplating switching brands, I've been running the D413 for about 1.5 yrs
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