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Old 07-29-2016, 03:11 PM
  #11206  
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Will the 16 body fit the 15?
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:45 AM
  #11207  
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Originally Posted by Pekr.da.skurl
Will the 16 body fit the 15?
Yes, perfectly!
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Old 07-31-2016, 04:09 AM
  #11208  
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Originally Posted by Pekr.da.skurl
Will the 16 body fit the 15?
The front body mount is in a different position so don't use the front scribed hole in the body. Rear is the same.
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Old 07-31-2016, 04:29 AM
  #11209  
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Originally Posted by rraden
The front body mount is in a different position so don't use the front scribed hole in the body. Rear is the same.
I use Velcro to hold it down and it fits fine along the side guards. I don't like using body clip. The Velcro keeps a nice seal on the sides.
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Old 07-31-2016, 06:06 AM
  #11210  
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Has anyone had a problem with the 14' version car eating up the rear pinion bevel gear? I have went thru 2 lately. Thanks
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Old 07-31-2016, 07:19 PM
  #11211  
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Originally Posted by JAE
ECS driveshafts - anyone using these on clay? Any point in upgrading the rear or is this primarily for chatter on the front end turning on power? Have an xb2 as well so was going to try out some rears, as they are interchangeable, and who knows when I'll bend a rear drive shaft and may be in need. is there is a point, or is my money is better spent on just the xb4 fronts. Thx all
i got them for just the xb4 fronts. they definitely help with smoother and sharper cornering, especially on carpet, but also helpful on high bite clay and increased front traction.

as far as the rears go, they supposedly help increase rear traction but since the rear wheels don't turn and only are affected by camber changes from the suspension moving, i can't imagine that being all that significant. i would personally say run just the xb4 fronts and if you bend the rears on either car, maybe try the ecs out back.

also keep in mind that the standard drive shafts are likely to be less expensive and easier to maintain and/or replace. plus they might be a little more durable and last longer being that the design is more simple with less moving parts and wear.

just my .02
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Old 08-13-2016, 12:34 PM
  #11212  
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Thx! Changed out medium chassis and braces for medium bite clay track. Moved rear shock to inner hole on rear tower like my xb2. Helped tremendously. Still not as much rear grip as I'd like. Anyone adding weight to the rear without buying brass hangers? How much and where? I imagine with the battery to one side one would weight the left, but I don't have scales for the corners?... He all
Originally Posted by lyons238
i got them for just the xb4 fronts. they definitely help with smoother and sharper cornering, especially on carpet, but also helpful on high bite clay and increased front traction.

as far as the rears go, they supposedly help increase rear traction but since the rear wheels don't turn and only are affected by camber changes from the suspension moving, i can't imagine that being all that significant. i would personally say run just the xb4 fronts and if you bend the rears on either car, maybe try the ecs out back.

also keep in mind that the standard drive shafts are likely to be less expensive and easier to maintain and/or replace. plus they might be a little more durable and last longer being that the design is more simple with less moving parts and wear.

just my .02
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Old 08-13-2016, 04:23 PM
  #11213  
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I have 15 grams in the rear and helped a ton running on clay.

Again I am running the avid 2+2 pistons and the avid springs, purple front and white rear.
Attached Thumbnails Xray XB4 thread-13511028_1154538127920928_2425897050534075511_n.jpg  
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Old 08-13-2016, 04:51 PM
  #11214  
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Edit: best advice ever. Buggy came alive. 40/35 20 percent rebound. AE blue front. 1 dot rear. Going to try a little softer on spring.


You're not chassis slapping with a 1.89 soft rear spring?
Originally Posted by randy0025
I have 15 grams in the rear and helped a ton running on clay.

Again I am running the avid 2+2 pistons and the avid springs, purple front and white rear.

Last edited by JAE; 08-13-2016 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 08-14-2016, 09:11 AM
  #11215  
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Originally Posted by JAE
Thx! Changed out medium chassis and braces for medium bite clay track. Moved rear shock to inner hole on rear tower like my xb2. Helped tremendously. Still not as much rear grip as I'd like. Anyone adding weight to the rear without buying brass hangers? How much and where? I imagine with the battery to one side one would weight the left, but I don't have scales for the corners?... He all
I to was looking for a little more rear grip. I put the rear shocks on the back side of the tower and that made a noticeable difference.
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:02 PM
  #11216  
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Originally Posted by JAE
Edit: best advice ever. Buggy came alive. 40/35 20 percent rebound. AE blue front. 1 dot rear. Going to try a little softer on spring.


You're not chassis slapping with a 1.89 soft rear spring?

I am glad I was able to help and you like it. I am personally running the Avid white rear springs which is 1.94lb and It will slap if I miss down side jump alittle bit on the real big ones but if i land it right or even alititle of I find thats the best spring for me all around the track. I am also running 42.5wt and 37.5wt which is pretty close to what you are running now.
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 4s losi
I to was looking for a little more rear grip. I put the rear shocks on the back side of the tower and that made a noticeable difference.

You can add alittle weight or also go down alittle on your rear diff oil. Also I went with a softer rear sway bar which will help give you alittle more rear traction. Also maybe increasing rear toe (more toe in)... Those are some things i have tried and have worked.

Also not sure if you got the medium rear braces or sides but there really do work as I really didnt think i would be able to notice a change but I did. Kinda feels like I got more traction by going to the medium from the stock hard ones.
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Old 08-14-2016, 01:47 PM
  #11218  
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Originally Posted by randy0025
You can add alittle weight or also go down alittle on your rear diff oil. Also I went with a softer rear sway bar which will help give you alittle more rear traction. Also maybe increasing rear toe (more toe in)... Those are some things i have tried and have worked.
Also not sure if you got the medium rear braces or sides but there really do work as I really didnt think i would be able to notice a change but I did. Kinda feels like I got more traction by going to the medium from the stock hard ones.
I do have all the medium grip stuff on mine and I'm running 1000 weight rear diff oil. I tend to drive real aggressive into the turns so it's pry more me than the car but I've got it real close. If I can just tone the rear down a bit it will be spot on
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Old 08-14-2016, 06:23 PM
  #11219  
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Originally Posted by 4s losi
I do have all the medium grip stuff on mine and I'm running 1000 weight rear diff oil. I tend to drive real aggressive into the turns so it's pry more me than the car but I've got it real close. If I can just tone the rear down a bit it will be spot on

1k or 10k in the rear, I have never ran anything under 3k in the rear on a normal bases. I think I tried 2k once but never again. I would love to know what the rest of your oils are if your running 1k in the rear. I am normally at 7k,200k,5k or 5k,300k,3k with sometime going up to 500k in the center diff.
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Old 08-14-2016, 07:13 PM
  #11220  
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i run 10k 500k 10k

think of going 8k in the rear

also i run the steel diff gears

on med-high bite clay (primes or electrons)
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