Please put me on your ignore ...

Anyone know how Titanium diff balls compare to Ceramic and carbide? /s

Yeah I know. I just couldn't help it.

[QUOTE=JiuHaWong;11964043]Anyone know how Titanium diff balls compare to Ceramic and carbide? QUOTE]

They are even softer then carbide,ceramic harder then any metal.

When did this thread jump the shark? There is a ton of great info but all the bickering makes me want to puke. YOU ARE ALL PRETTY? Case closed. Lets move on. Again. Thanks for all the great info guys, keep up the positivity.

[QUOTE=Wild Cherry;11964199]Who cares about price...most of us will pay whatever it takes to do what we think will win.

Certain things work better on different tracks.

So moving on cause there is no need for a bunch of guys sitting around to talk about their balls any further.


So coming from a TC back round how much do you play around with roll center? I have only used the JConcepts but have you tried different bodies and does it effect jumping/handling like on-road? If so in what way does it change. I don't care about cost just how it changes the car and control.

I do a lot of roll center adjustments on this car, depending on the requirements of the track layout and surface. In general, on lower bite surfaces, I always run the rear at 21mm to get enough roll in the rear. On high bite, 20mm. From that point, using the factory A hubs I can generally raise or lower the r/c one .030 washer and get it where I want it for the right balance of low speed off power grip and on power corner exit traction. This car is incredibly sensitive to rear roll center and it is my go-to setting that sets the stage for the entire rest of the car. After our last track rebuild, it was very loose initially, and I actually went to C hubs and 2 washers to get an even lower roll center than the A hubs and no washers, which is my normal rear RC setup at my home track.

Front R/C is really just the classic exchange of responsiveness and initial steering for easy of driving and is really just driver preference. On tighter indoor tracks, I tend to run the factory R/C almost always (one washer). If it's a more high speed track where decelerating corner entry is huge, then I'll lower my front roll center so the front washes out a bit so it doesn't "hook in" on me suddenly when the car slows down and the chassis levels out. This is just from experience on various track layouts and surface conditions.

Wayne

Oh yeah, and I almost always run the front 1mm higher than the rear unless I'm on a super tight layout and just can't get steering with the tires available. If I lower the front, I almost always lower the front RC to tame it down because the car has mega turn-in at that point.

Anyone make a piece of carbon fiber in 1mm height adjustments for the rear carrier to raise or lower roll center?

Has AE made thicker or thinner top decks in the past to use for different traction settings?

You mean like the A/C hub style standoffs on the hubs? There's already a plethora of roll center options available with just the standard washers and the c hubs. C hubs (lowest outside link option) and no washers (highest inside link option) is practically unusably low, and with A hubs (highest outside link option), I've never seen people move the inside link more than 2 washers down... so I don't know what the purpose would be.

Generally speaking, there really hasn't been much done in terms of chassis stiffness turning. AE tends to adjust flex with arm compounds. There are 3 plastic compounds for rear arms--B44 plastic, B4 plastic, and carbon.

I believe he is referring to raising the inner / lower arm mount, something that is done with tc's often. This is not done as, like raz suggested, there is a plethora of roll center adjustments to be made via hub towers and ball stud washers. And no AE doesn't make different thicknesses of upper decks.

Yeah, in offroad, the springs are so soft and the cars sit so high that there's no challenge getting roll

Thank you.

Yes I understand adjusting roll center isn't a reflection of adjusting ride height. As I think you were referring to. My question is to has anyone used any adjustments to the front or do you just rely on the inner portion of the camber link? Has anyone made or tried a front roll bar?

Also still question of an aftermarket "A" or "B" rear carrier piece to adjust the roll center.

So let flaming begin. I typically run on-road the last time I ran off-road was around 98-99.