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The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread

The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread

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Old 02-15-2013, 08:50 AM
  #3016  
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That was a really nice one on breaking in the diff.

Racer53's video shows him alternating between holding the left wheel while spinning the right, and holding the right wheel while spinning the left. I'm guessing that alternating long end with short end in the chuck would do the same thing.

Last edited by kevinrc; 02-15-2013 at 09:29 AM.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
I use 5% on all my indoor electrics. Makes the car feel "right" on the tight indoor surfaces and have just enough self-deceleration for tight slow corners so you're not constantly trying to battle between tiny amounts of brake without spinning around and coasting into the pipe on the other side of the corner.
This.

On both my 2WD and 4WD buggies, I run 1-1.5 LEDs worth of drag brake on my Tekins. I think that amounts to 5-10%, but I'm not sure, it just feels right.
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:13 PM
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Good man for the videos. Now I gotta take some time to actually build out the FAQ for this thread!

And that was me that said I loosen my diffs up each time before I leave the track until I run next time. As you said, no negative affect, and maybe it's just placebo, but it seems like they stay smoother for longer, to me at least.
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:16 PM
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lol....

"Alrightyyyyy"
"Alrightyy"
"Okaaaaaaaaay"

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Old 02-15-2013, 01:22 PM
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Hideeho
My B44.1 should be here tomorrow. I've got a servo to go in for the time being, but I am going to need to get another one. I'm thinking seriously about the savox 1251 low profile. I'm want to put all my electronics on the same side for balance. I have a spektrum 3100 receiver & an rs pro esc. Will all that fit with a standard size servo (savox 1257) or will need the low profile (1251)?
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by kevinrc View Post
That was a really nice one on breaking in the diff.

Racer53's video shows him alternating between holding the left wheel while spinning the right, and holding the right wheel while spinning the left. I'm guessing that alternating long end with short end in the chuck would do the same thing.
Or just rev. the drill rotation.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rigor View Post
Good man for the videos. Now I gotta take some time to actually build out the FAQ for this thread!

And that was me that said I loosen my diffs up each time before I leave the track until I run next time. As you said, no negative affect, and maybe it's just placebo, but it seems like they stay smoother for longer, to me at least.
Thanks, I will get the gear boxes done tonight. Trying to keep the vids short and sweet. I think I will start rehearsing more before doing each vid to. Like when I say barking diff I should be saying slipping diff etc.

I am going to use your diff loosening tip from now on. It just makes sense to do it. And seems how the diff tool makes it so easy may as well......

BTW Part 1/2 are really the most important and a must do in the build. Part 3 is just an option I like when I am building mine. I will still do a demo on the kit when its done showing all the final settings.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:43 PM
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UN4,

Do you find that the chuck it in a drill method works better than the table method where you hold one wheel at a time?

I guess you can feel what the diff is doing better with your method and easier to feel tension on the screw as you tighten up between sessions.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by UN4RACING View Post
Thanks, I will get the gear boxes done tonight. Trying to keep the vids short and sweet. I think I will start rehearsing more before doing each vid to. Like when I say barking diff I should be saying slipping diff etc.

I am going to use your diff loosening tip from now on. It just makes sense to do it. And seems how the diff tool makes it so easy may as well......

BTW Part 1/2 are really the most important and a must do in the build. Part 3 is just an option I like when I am building mine. I will still do a demo on the kit when its done showing all the final settings.
I'm lazy and usually don't do this. But after a long break in on the bench it is good to fully disassemble clean and re lube. This will clean out any grit kicked up by the break in.
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:04 PM
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For what it's worth, on the diff break-in, I use the wheel on table method and I don't change wheels /direction.
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
I use 5% on all my indoor electrics. Makes the car feel "right" on the tight indoor surfaces and have just enough self-deceleration for tight slow corners so you're not constantly trying to battle between tiny amounts of brake without spinning around and coasting into the pipe on the other side of the corner.
I programmed in 5% today and took it to the track. It took about one lap to get used to it and I love it. I reduced my lap times dramatically today.

I wish Tekin had an Android App for the Hotwire so I could bring my Tablet to make changes on the fly. I'm wondering if more drag would it be even better. What I noticed was I could keep a better line on 180 deg turns (in faster, out faster). In addition, I was able to get power back on the track smoother and faster after all the doubles in my track's current layout.
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
For what it's worth, on the diff break-in, I use the wheel on table method and I don't change wheels /direction.
It's worth something to me: I'll break in my diffs that way, and save learning to pull diffs for another day.

(But next time I'll do it UN4's way.)
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by fq06 View Post
UN4,

Do you find that the chuck it in a drill method works better than the table method where you hold one wheel at a time?

I guess you can feel what the diff is doing better with your method and easier to feel tension on the screw as you tighten up between sessions.
I like both methods. But if you do it on the table holding the tire most just set it to stock setting and then just break it in one time. In most cases don't get the rings seated real well. On the table if you do it slow a little at a time like with the drill its the same difference. Holding the tire method works in most cases just fine if you allow the rings to seat, but slow on the table while building it is best and if it goes wrong easy to fix before hitting the track the first time.

Heck in the old days we set it and did figure 8's on the ground for about half a pack and we did just fine. As long as you get them seated real good before really running it hard is the key.
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RCmayor View Post
I'm lazy and usually don't do this. But after a long break in on the bench it is good to fully disassemble clean and re lube. This will clean out any grit kicked up by the break in.
Funny huh? I have done that one time that I can think of LOL, but yeah if you want to take it all the way its a good idea. And a must if you use the sanded rings method. This way the diff is out and less a chore than after its built and in the kit.

Smooth or sanded you can bet something is in there after a break in.

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Old 02-15-2013, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by kevinrc View Post
It's worth something to me: I'll break in my diffs that way, and save learning to pull diffs for another day.

(But next time I'll do it UN4's way.)
I tell ya when you redo your diffs it really only adds about 5 minutes to each diff build.
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