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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-22-2015, 01:37 PM
  #12871  
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
why C-in/C-in? 3.0 deg of toe
Sorry still learning the Buggy pills.

and A/A is 3.0 deg of toe.

and B-out/B-out is 3.0 deg of toe

and C-out / C-out is 3.0 deg of toe

and B-in / B-in is 3 deg of toe

and D-in / D-in is 3 deg of toe

Why so many 3.0 deg settings?

Thank you M
The pills change the pivot width at either the front or the rear of the rear arm blocks. Using the same pill letter for the front and back will change the track width but this also has an affect on the roll center. Using different pill letters will change the sweep of the arms and also the toe on the rear tires.
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Old 12-22-2015, 01:43 PM
  #12872  
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Originally Posted by cnelson3
The pills change the pivot width at either the front or the rear of the rear arm blocks. Using the same pill letter for the front and back will change the track width but this also has an affect on the roll center. Using different pill letters will change the sweep of the arms and also the toe on the rear tires.
I have C out and C out now.

Should I go to C in and C in?
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Old 12-22-2015, 01:55 PM
  #12873  
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
I have C out and C out now.

Should I go to C in and C in?
For an indoor track, I'm currently running b in /b in. What are you looking to gain
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Old 12-22-2015, 02:37 PM
  #12874  
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Good question? Sir.

What should I start off with?

C in or b in

3.5

C in front and B in worked great Tues.. Thanks for your help

Last edited by Motorman007; 12-23-2015 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 12-22-2015, 08:47 PM
  #12875  
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Okay, since Avid has ceased production on the shock/turnbuckle tool, what is everyone using to adjust the turnbuckles and removing the shock cartridge?
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Old 12-22-2015, 09:15 PM
  #12876  
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Originally Posted by lyork
Okay, since Avid has ceased production on the shock/turnbuckle tool, what is everyone using to adjust the turnbuckles and removing the shock cartridge?
small mini monkey wrench
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Old 12-23-2015, 05:18 AM
  #12877  
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I need to replace the pin in the axles with something stronger anyone have a idea what I can use?

Do kyosho make these stronger or any other company?

or just some old AE pins are my best bet?
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-associated_universal_axle_spring_roll_pin.jpg  
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Old 12-23-2015, 05:35 AM
  #12878  
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
I need to replace the pin in the axles with something stronger anyone have a idea what I can use?

Do kyosho make these stronger or any other company?

or just some old AE pins are my best bet?

For real?? I can't imagine breaking or even wearing out hex pins.

I wouldn't use spring pins. They'd be a pain to get in and out.
Maybe cut the end off a high speed steel drill bit of the proper size but that's basically what the stock pin is. Or a carbide drill bit.

Stock pins are very hard. You may have other problems.
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Old 12-23-2015, 05:43 AM
  #12879  
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Originally Posted by oPAULo
For real?? I can't imagine breaking or even wearing out hex pins.

I wouldn't use spring pins. They'd be a pain to get in and out.
Maybe cut the end off a high speed steel drill bit of the proper size but that's basically what the stock pin is. Or a carbide drill bit.

Stock pins are very hard. You may have other problems.
Yeah i got it 2nd hand it had some ##$$$# pins sir. And one broke. So they are not the stock ones. If can get the stock ones I would?

And this is a great idea sir. I will do just that. Brill bit.

Thanx
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Old 12-23-2015, 08:08 AM
  #12880  
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I've used cut up body clips without issue. I can't remember breaking a pin in the axle.

The axle usually snaps first.
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Old 12-23-2015, 12:18 PM
  #12881  
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My LHS is selling the RB6 for $300, which seems like an amazing deal. Someone convince me why I should buy this car instead of a 22 3.0, which is about the same price, I need an excuse!
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Old 12-23-2015, 12:57 PM
  #12882  
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I've seen a lot of new 3.0's at the track and haven't seen any miracles.
Mid pack drivers are still mid pack.
Fast guys are still fast.
A couple fast guys seem to have gotten a touch slower and say they're still figuring out the new platform.

I've looked real close at B5M's and 3.0's and I'm sticking with the RB6 a while longer.

I've also been following the 3.0 thread. Some are still running KYO springs and they still compare the shocks to the RB6 shocks.
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Old 12-23-2015, 01:09 PM
  #12883  
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When are the new chassis and side pods supposed to be out? Wonder if they're on the boat and just not available yet...
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Old 12-23-2015, 04:10 PM
  #12884  
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Simple question, adding shims under rear hanger/bumper will decrease anti squat? No shims anywhere just bumper =2 degree. Right?
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Old 12-23-2015, 06:02 PM
  #12885  
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Originally Posted by nitro2be
Simple question, adding shims under rear hanger/bumper will decrease anti squat? No shims anywhere just bumper =2 degree. Right?
Ok. You asked for it...

#1.
The manual calls for 1mm worth of shim either on top of or below the rear hinge pin holder, OR, 0.5mm in each spot.
This keeps the distance from the chassis to the transmission mount at the stack up dimension it was designed to have.

My measurements are as follow.
No shim under the rear hinge pin mount = 2.225 degrees
0.5mm under = 1.484 degrees
1mm under = 0.742 degrees

Here's my math.
Any input is welcome.
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