172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
12-28-2015, 01:34 PM
Gear diff... This 1/8th driver really misses gears 
I've seen a couple, but tuning the rear ball diff seems more like black magic than science. Does anyone have a really good tutorial for this? Or if I'm running on a relatively high grip track, is a ball diff really the better option?
I've seen a couple, but tuning the rear ball diff seems more like black magic than science. Does anyone have a really good tutorial for this? Or if I'm running on a relatively high grip track, is a ball diff really the better option?
12-28-2015, 03:59 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
I really didn't get much out of his videos honestly, the diff build and diff break in set, which I just watched. I know from back in the day how to build a diff, but it's been a really long time since I used one. You see him constantly adjusting, spinning tires, and commenting on loose and tight, but no where does he actually describe HOW he determines if it's too loose or tight and what the right test feel is. The only comment is about a "honk" from the diff when setting his slipper. This is also a good process during initial break-in, but does not explain how to test when adjusting or after it's on the track for a while.
12-28-2015, 04:34 PM
I believe he says that on his "spin test" 3/4 to 1 turn when he spins the wheels in opposite directions.
Then he sets the slipper and honks the diff a bit.
https://youtu.be/Uf0do3YArfM
This tells me the diff is set just a touch tighter than the slipper by his method.... if that makes sense.
I set mine this way and it doesn't honk and lasts a long time but I honestly have no idea how to adjust it for track conditions. I sometimes think about tightening it but don't want to lose low speed steering. Never notice it "diffing out" through the corner so I really don't mess with it.
Hearing about 7K and 10K gear diff fluid makes me think I run my diff too loose though.
Then he sets the slipper and honks the diff a bit.
https://youtu.be/Uf0do3YArfM
This tells me the diff is set just a touch tighter than the slipper by his method.... if that makes sense.
I set mine this way and it doesn't honk and lasts a long time but I honestly have no idea how to adjust it for track conditions. I sometimes think about tightening it but don't want to lose low speed steering. Never notice it "diffing out" through the corner so I really don't mess with it.
Hearing about 7K and 10K gear diff fluid makes me think I run my diff too loose though.
12-28-2015, 05:25 PM
I believe he says that on his "spin test" 3/4 to 1 turn when he spins the wheels in opposite directions.
Then he sets the slipper and honks the diff a bit.
https://youtu.be/Uf0do3YArfM
This tells me the diff is set just a touch tighter than the slipper by his method.... if that makes sense.
I set mine this way and it doesn't honk and lasts a long time but I honestly have no idea how to adjust it for track conditions. I sometimes think about tightening it but don't want to lose low speed steering. Never notice it "diffing out" through the corner so I really don't mess with it.
Hearing about 7K and 10K gear diff fluid makes me think I run my diff too loose though.
Then he sets the slipper and honks the diff a bit.
https://youtu.be/Uf0do3YArfM
This tells me the diff is set just a touch tighter than the slipper by his method.... if that makes sense.
I set mine this way and it doesn't honk and lasts a long time but I honestly have no idea how to adjust it for track conditions. I sometimes think about tightening it but don't want to lose low speed steering. Never notice it "diffing out" through the corner so I really don't mess with it.
Hearing about 7K and 10K gear diff fluid makes me think I run my diff too loose though.
12-28-2015, 06:10 PM
Dearest RED ARMY,
I had a head on collision with an 8th scale tonight and did this.....
Here's my dilema,
We might be leaving Thursday morning headed for Trackside in Wisconsin and have no way to afforably get parts here by then. Anyone in here from Trackside have a set? Even stock arms will do.
Maybe I could have a set shipped there.
Guh....never thought I'd break these.
I had a head on collision with an 8th scale tonight and did this.....
Here's my dilema,
We might be leaving Thursday morning headed for Trackside in Wisconsin and have no way to afforably get parts here by then. Anyone in here from Trackside have a set? Even stock arms will do.
Maybe I could have a set shipped there.
Guh....never thought I'd break these.
Impessive. Almost more than the brass bulkhead twisted into a new shape.
Your best bet is to call trackside and have them order you one. If they can't I could meet you in the madison, wi area with parts.
I have a black exotech rack that I'm not using.
12-29-2015, 04:55 AM
Hi guys just jumped the gun and bought a brand new old spec RB6 (new 2015 spec is all sold out until end of January here in Japan).
Can somebody point out a good starting setup for mid motor on an indoor clay track with low-medium grip track? Will be running in 17.5 blinky class locally here.
Ive seen plenty of setup sheets on PetitRC and it is kinda overwhelming to choose from.
Thanks in a advance.
Can somebody point out a good starting setup for mid motor on an indoor clay track with low-medium grip track? Will be running in 17.5 blinky class locally here.
Ive seen plenty of setup sheets on PetitRC and it is kinda overwhelming to choose from.
Thanks in a advance.
12-29-2015, 06:18 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
My sideways battery mod. If you just cut the plastic and don't touch the aluminum chassis it will space a shorty off the chassis 3mm. I wanted to try this first because shaving the angles off the chassis plus removing the side plate screw is going to allow for a LOT more flex. I wanted to try one thing at a time. The extra weight over the rear helped on our local hard slick dusty track. I drilled the chassis to put the battery brace in position for an inline battery all the way back almost against the motor in case I wanted to switch back real quick. I spaced the battery clamp and waterfall up off the chassis 3mm to use the stock hold down. More testing is required.
12-29-2015, 06:39 AM
I am using the Zack Rogers setup with some minor tweaks.
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho...nmans20140821/
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho...nmans20140821/
12-29-2015, 07:11 AM
On my hometown slick track it made a quite a difference. The extra weight to the rear really helped. I was able to stay on the same lap as the local hot shoe and finished second. Even beat a couple 3.0's!!
On the big track in Indy I was right out to lunch. Same as ever. The track has much more traction and I was all setup for the little slick track. Traction rolled a couple times. I found myself moving the battery forward to put on power steering back into it. I think I had it better by the end but the steering link let go and it was over.
Hoping to hit Trackside in Wisconsin this weekend.
On the big track in Indy I was right out to lunch. Same as ever. The track has much more traction and I was all setup for the little slick track. Traction rolled a couple times. I found myself moving the battery forward to put on power steering back into it. I think I had it better by the end but the steering link let go and it was over.
Hoping to hit Trackside in Wisconsin this weekend.
12-29-2015, 07:40 AM
12-29-2015, 08:15 AM
When you guys strip an idler gear, do you usually replace the main diff gear also? I always clean all the other gears,but can never get the gears clean enough to be nice and quiet as new.... I clean all the gears with an exacto and tooth brush... Is it better to replace all of the gears when your transmission becomes noisy to avoid the idler gear stripping?
Well, I haven't had any idler gear issues yet due to only 1 test run. I have a 3 gear MM transmission on a buggy I picked up here in the forums. I am a machinist by trade, and I would say that yes if you want the best possible performance you should definitely replace the diff gear too. I'd assume that the idler gear was designed to strip first since it's the easiest to replace, and I bet that the diff gear wear is minimal, but there is always gonna be those coulle of spots that you don't see unless it's under high magnification (50x range). I also wouldn't rule out the top shaft if it has been in there for a while. It is aluminum and could definitely take some wear after time and heavy usage.
12-29-2015, 02:10 PM
When you guys strip an idler gear, do you usually replace the main diff gear also? I always clean all the other gears,but can never get the gears clean enough to be nice and quiet as new.... I clean all the gears with an exacto and tooth brush... Is it better to replace all of the gears when your transmission becomes noisy to avoid the idler gear stripping?
I went back to slippers in my 17.5s to keep my pucks outdrives happy. That seems to be working out.
12-30-2015, 11:47 AM
Has anyone tried the Xray wings on their buggy? If not maybe suggest your favorite? I generally like the thicker wings like upgrade or Xrays 1.5 or 2.0 mm wings.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...363512/p358310
or
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...363512/p358310
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...363512/p358310
or
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...363512/p358310
12-30-2015, 03:34 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Without posting the entire setup (at the track), thoughts on a fix if 2/3 the way into a corner my rear consistently tries to come around?
12-30-2015, 05:20 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)