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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-28-2015, 02:34 PM   #12901
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Gear diff... This 1/8th driver really misses gears

I've seen a couple, but tuning the rear ball diff seems more like black magic than science. Does anyone have a really good tutorial for this? Or if I'm running on a relatively high grip track, is a ball diff really the better option?
Hi bite like carpet,yes gear diff, ball diff on all dirt tracks unless blue groove.. The ball diff is really easy to set up,especially if you watch tebos's diff setup video techniques
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Old 12-28-2015, 04:59 PM   #12902
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Hi bite like carpet,yes gear diff, ball diff on all dirt tracks unless blue groove.. The ball diff is really easy to set up,especially if you watch tebos's diff setup video techniques
I really didn't get much out of his videos honestly, the diff build and diff break in set, which I just watched. I know from back in the day how to build a diff, but it's been a really long time since I used one. You see him constantly adjusting, spinning tires, and commenting on loose and tight, but no where does he actually describe HOW he determines if it's too loose or tight and what the right test feel is. The only comment is about a "honk" from the diff when setting his slipper. This is also a good process during initial break-in, but does not explain how to test when adjusting or after it's on the track for a while.
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:34 PM   #12903
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I believe he says that on his "spin test" 3/4 to 1 turn when he spins the wheels in opposite directions.
Then he sets the slipper and honks the diff a bit.

https://youtu.be/Uf0do3YArfM

This tells me the diff is set just a touch tighter than the slipper by his method.... if that makes sense.
I set mine this way and it doesn't honk and lasts a long time but I honestly have no idea how to adjust it for track conditions. I sometimes think about tightening it but don't want to lose low speed steering. Never notice it "diffing out" through the corner so I really don't mess with it.
Hearing about 7K and 10K gear diff fluid makes me think I run my diff too loose though.
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Old 12-28-2015, 06:25 PM   #12904
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Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
I believe he says that on his "spin test" 3/4 to 1 turn when he spins the wheels in opposite directions.
Then he sets the slipper and honks the diff a bit.

https://youtu.be/Uf0do3YArfM

This tells me the diff is set just a touch tighter than the slipper by his method.... if that makes sense.
I set mine this way and it doesn't honk and lasts a long time but I honestly have no idea how to adjust it for track conditions. I sometimes think about tightening it but don't want to lose low speed steering. Never notice it "diffing out" through the corner so I really don't mess with it.
Hearing about 7K and 10K gear diff fluid makes me think I run my diff too loose though.
Yea, I have always went by how many revolutions my wheel spins to determine wether it's too loose or too tight,it has always worked for me,same concept from older cars as well....
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Old 12-28-2015, 07:10 PM   #12905
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Dearest RED ARMY,

I had a head on collision with an 8th scale tonight and did this.....


Here's my dilema,
We might be leaving Thursday morning headed for Trackside in Wisconsin and have no way to afforably get parts here by then. Anyone in here from Trackside have a set? Even stock arms will do.
Maybe I could have a set shipped there.
Guh....never thought I'd break these.

Impessive. Almost more than the brass bulkhead twisted into a new shape.

Your best bet is to call trackside and have them order you one. If they can't I could meet you in the madison, wi area with parts. I have a black exotech rack that I'm not using.
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Old 12-29-2015, 05:55 AM   #12906
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Hi guys just jumped the gun and bought a brand new old spec RB6 (new 2015 spec is all sold out until end of January here in Japan).

Can somebody point out a good starting setup for mid motor on an indoor clay track with low-medium grip track? Will be running in 17.5 blinky class locally here.

Ive seen plenty of setup sheets on PetitRC and it is kinda overwhelming to choose from.

Thanks in a advance.
Anyone?
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Old 12-29-2015, 07:18 AM   #12907
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My sideways battery mod. If you just cut the plastic and don't touch the aluminum chassis it will space a shorty off the chassis 3mm. I wanted to try this first because shaving the angles off the chassis plus removing the side plate screw is going to allow for a LOT more flex. I wanted to try one thing at a time. The extra weight over the rear helped on our local hard slick dusty track. I drilled the chassis to put the battery brace in position for an inline battery all the way back almost against the motor in case I wanted to switch back real quick. I spaced the battery clamp and waterfall up off the chassis 3mm to use the stock hold down. More testing is required.
How'd it do? just did the same thing this AM to test.
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Old 12-29-2015, 07:39 AM   #12908
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Anyone?
I am using the Zack Rogers setup with some minor tweaks.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho...nmans20140821/
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Old 12-29-2015, 08:11 AM   #12909
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How'd it do? just did the same thing this AM to test.
On my hometown slick track it made a quite a difference. The extra weight to the rear really helped. I was able to stay on the same lap as the local hot shoe and finished second. Even beat a couple 3.0's!!

On the big track in Indy I was right out to lunch. Same as ever. The track has much more traction and I was all setup for the little slick track. Traction rolled a couple times. I found myself moving the battery forward to put on power steering back into it. I think I had it better by the end but the steering link let go and it was over.

Hoping to hit Trackside in Wisconsin this weekend.
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Old 12-29-2015, 08:40 AM   #12910
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Anyone?
Also check king/tebo setup at 2015 reedy race at ocrc.. I like kings setup
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Old 12-29-2015, 09:15 AM   #12911
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When you guys strip an idler gear, do you usually replace the main diff gear also? I always clean all the other gears,but can never get the gears clean enough to be nice and quiet as new.... I clean all the gears with an exacto and tooth brush... Is it better to replace all of the gears when your transmission becomes noisy to avoid the idler gear stripping?

Well, I haven't had any idler gear issues yet due to only 1 test run. I have a 3 gear MM transmission on a buggy I picked up here in the forums. I am a machinist by trade, and I would say that yes if you want the best possible performance you should definitely replace the diff gear too. I'd assume that the idler gear was designed to strip first since it's the easiest to replace, and I bet that the diff gear wear is minimal, but there is always gonna be those coulle of spots that you don't see unless it's under high magnification (50x range). I also wouldn't rule out the top shaft if it has been in there for a while. It is aluminum and could definitely take some wear after time and heavy usage.
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Old 12-29-2015, 03:10 PM   #12912
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
When you guys strip an idler gear, do you usually replace the main diff gear also? I always clean all the other gears,but can never get the gears clean enough to be nice and quiet as new.... I clean all the gears with an exacto and tooth brush... Is it better to replace all of the gears when your transmission becomes noisy to avoid the idler gear stripping?
Yup, I replace the diff gear along with the idlers. The only thing I reinstall is the top shaft as long as it is not showing any significant wear. A tiny bit a of a tacky grease on the gears is a good idea too. Luckily I only had it happen once and since then I set my slippers a little looser.

I went back to slippers in my 17.5s to keep my pucks outdrives happy. That seems to be working out.
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Old 12-30-2015, 12:47 PM   #12913
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Has anyone tried the Xray wings on their buggy? If not maybe suggest your favorite? I generally like the thicker wings like upgrade or Xrays 1.5 or 2.0 mm wings.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...363512/p358310

or

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...363512/p358310
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Old 12-30-2015, 04:34 PM   #12914
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Without posting the entire setup (at the track), thoughts on a fix if 2/3 the way into a corner my rear consistently tries to come around?
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Old 12-30-2015, 06:20 PM   #12915
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Without posting the entire setup (at the track), thoughts on a fix if 2/3 the way into a corner my rear consistently tries to come around?
Ended up with 1 softer springs in rear (white) and took the shim off the rear hub to lower roll center. Worked well (thanks Rodney).
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