Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Tech Regular
My RB6 build went great. However, my car weighs in at 1480g. Heres a list of whats on my car:
Lunsford Ti turnbuckles,hinge pins, and ball studs
Kyosho Ti screw kit
Kyosho alloy steering rack,rf and rr hangars, 0 degree hubs
MM 3 gear mod
Ceramic bearings throughout
Side pods and light chassis milled to run battery sideways and flat
MIP pucks
Kyosho light slipper plates
B4 modified carbon fiber battery strap
Align servo
Hobbywing Stock Spec esc
Lrp X20 17.5
Orion Carbon shorty
Airtronics 471 receiver
Amb 2 wire transponder
Kyosho wheels with Proline Primes
JC body and wing
Kyosho chassis protector
The rest is kit parts
I bought 2 cars with lots of upgrades for 300 bucks with lots of spares. Spent a couple hundred on the other upgrades. Did a full dissemble and rebuild from ground up. I have enough parts and spares to build a fresh RM next
Anybody interested in a TLR 22 2.0???LOL!
Lunsford Ti turnbuckles,hinge pins, and ball studs
Kyosho Ti screw kit
Kyosho alloy steering rack,rf and rr hangars, 0 degree hubs
MM 3 gear mod
Ceramic bearings throughout
Side pods and light chassis milled to run battery sideways and flat
MIP pucks
Kyosho light slipper plates
B4 modified carbon fiber battery strap
Align servo
Hobbywing Stock Spec esc
Lrp X20 17.5
Orion Carbon shorty
Airtronics 471 receiver
Amb 2 wire transponder
Kyosho wheels with Proline Primes
JC body and wing
Kyosho chassis protector
The rest is kit parts
I bought 2 cars with lots of upgrades for 300 bucks with lots of spares. Spent a couple hundred on the other upgrades. Did a full dissemble and rebuild from ground up. I have enough parts and spares to build a fresh RM next
Anybody interested in a TLR 22 2.0???LOL!
My RB6 build went great. However, my car weighs in at 1480g. Heres a list of whats on my car:
Lunsford Ti turnbuckles,hinge pins, and ball studs
Kyosho Ti screw kit
Kyosho alloy steering rack,rf and rr hangars, 0 degree hubs
MM 3 gear mod
Ceramic bearings throughout
Side pods and light chassis milled to run battery sideways and flat
MIP pucks
Kyosho light slipper plates
B4 modified carbon fiber battery strap
Align servo
Hobbywing Stock Spec esc
Lrp X20 17.5
Orion Carbon shorty
Airtronics 471 receiver
Amb 2 wire transponder
Kyosho wheels with Proline Primes
JC body and wing
Kyosho chassis protector
The rest is kit parts
I bought 2 cars with lots of upgrades for 300 bucks with lots of spares. Spent a couple hundred on the other upgrades. Did a full dissemble and rebuild from ground up. I have enough parts and spares to build a fresh RM next
Anybody interested in a TLR 22 2.0???LOL!
Lunsford Ti turnbuckles,hinge pins, and ball studs
Kyosho Ti screw kit
Kyosho alloy steering rack,rf and rr hangars, 0 degree hubs
MM 3 gear mod
Ceramic bearings throughout
Side pods and light chassis milled to run battery sideways and flat
MIP pucks
Kyosho light slipper plates
B4 modified carbon fiber battery strap
Align servo
Hobbywing Stock Spec esc
Lrp X20 17.5
Orion Carbon shorty
Airtronics 471 receiver
Amb 2 wire transponder
Kyosho wheels with Proline Primes
JC body and wing
Kyosho chassis protector
The rest is kit parts
I bought 2 cars with lots of upgrades for 300 bucks with lots of spares. Spent a couple hundred on the other upgrades. Did a full dissemble and rebuild from ground up. I have enough parts and spares to build a fresh RM next
Anybody interested in a TLR 22 2.0???LOL!
Tech Regular
Tech Initiate
Im looking to switch over from my B5M to a RB6. A few guys at my local track have them and they seem to be doing pretty well. I know you have to mill the chassis out to run the battery sideways from what i have seen with the cars they have and what i have seen on the internet. has anyone milled the chassis out and not had the ends of the battery exposed on the sides of the car? Any other issues or tips for the car? they wouldnt happen to be coming out with a RB7 anytime soon would they haha?
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
I run my battery sideway with untouched chassis and had to add 3mm of rubber under the battery and space up the waterfall and battery mount 3mm to make it all work.
On my sons car we milled the chassis as far as it would go without having a gap between the side guard and chassis and had to add 1mm of rubber and spacers.
To put the battery flat on the chassis you will have a gap.
Even with 3mm spacers I like it better than inline battery.
On my sons car we milled the chassis as far as it would go without having a gap between the side guard and chassis and had to add 1mm of rubber and spacers.
To put the battery flat on the chassis you will have a gap.
Even with 3mm spacers I like it better than inline battery.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
I run my battery sideway with untouched chassis and had to add 3mm of rubber under the battery and space up the waterfall and battery mount 3mm to make it all work.
On my sons car we milled the chassis as far as it would go without having a gap between the side guard and chassis and had to add 1mm of rubber and spacers.
To put the battery flat on the chassis you will have a gap.
Even with 3mm spacers I like it better than inline battery.
On my sons car we milled the chassis as far as it would go without having a gap between the side guard and chassis and had to add 1mm of rubber and spacers.
To put the battery flat on the chassis you will have a gap.
Even with 3mm spacers I like it better than inline battery.
Like mine better inline. More agile. The rb already has the trans case more rearward then most other mm's. Running on low grip and still have more then enough rear grip running inline.
Found transverse battery to be lazy to react.
100% agree. My local indoor track is medium/high grip clay and inline batt just feels faster and more agile. I'm thinking sideways for outdoor season though.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
This may be true. We've only been in the hobby for a year so we're still pretty green but for an 11 year old and a 45 year old man, lazy means easier to drive which means faster lap times. Our local hard pack dry slick track wants all the rear weight you can get. On medium/high bite I find myself looking for more steering.
This may be true. We've only been in the hobby for a year so we're still pretty green but for an 11 year old and a 45 year old man, lazy means easier to drive which means faster lap times. Our local hard pack dry slick track wants all the rear weight you can get. On medium/high bite I find myself looking for more steering.
Tech Regular
I milled my chassis with a flush fit for the battery with no exposed battery on the side pods underneath. Its ultra thin there now so i assume it might get torn. I used an end mill with the side pods mounted. It came out good. might try to get a chassis protector that isn't precut to cover up the edges too for protection of the side pod. My first chassis I practiced on a wadded one that came with the car with a dremel. It came out ok, same result being super thin on the side pod.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (31)
I'm sure it's been asked but I didn't see it in my search...is there a rear motor to mid-motor conversion for RB6? I just got a rear motor RB6 but I'm not seeing a mid-motor conversion for it anywhere....
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
There really is no "conversion kit" because a new kit comes with both. You just need to buy the mid motor parts.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (31)
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
wouldnt in spin just like a rear motor since its on the same side and direction? Sorry was talking about a picture of Jared's car with new flat chassis and three gear transmission