172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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10-11-2012, 07:25 PM
#1412
what tires was your buddy running? and is that out of box setup?
10-11-2012, 07:28 PM
#1413
He's running Proline Suburbs M4 compound front and rear. Closed cell foams front and rear.
The set up is a little different from out of the box. I'm sure he could post it up for you guys once he's done testing... it's still in the developing stages.
Our track is low-medium bite topsoil/clay mix.
10-11-2012, 07:30 PM
#1414
Yeah it looks pretty darn good huh? He's a real talented driver as well but a car this good doesn't hurt!
He's running Proline Suburbs M4 compound all around.
The set up is a little different from out of the box. I'm sure he could post it up for you guys once he's done testing... it's still in the developing stages.
Our track is low-medium bite topsoil/clay mix.
He's running Proline Suburbs M4 compound all around.
The set up is a little different from out of the box. I'm sure he could post it up for you guys once he's done testing... it's still in the developing stages.
Our track is low-medium bite topsoil/clay mix.
Of course now I sorta want it but my rb5 is pulling low 17s and that's 3 days on it.
10-11-2012, 07:38 PM
#1415
10-11-2012, 07:41 PM
#1417
Ok great, here's where you discuss the RB5 if you weren't sure: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...hread-337.html
Haven't seen you in a while hopefully there is a good mod turn out. Anyways. About this car I'm driving licatas tmrw. It looks stupid fast
10-11-2012, 07:44 PM
#1418
Yeah it looks pretty darn good huh? He's a real talented driver as well but a car this good doesn't hurt!
He's running Proline Suburbs M4 compound front and rear. Closed cell foams front and rear.
The set up is a little different from out of the box. I'm sure he could post it up for you guys once he's done testing... it's still in the developing stages.
Our track is low-medium bite topsoil/clay mix.
He's running Proline Suburbs M4 compound front and rear. Closed cell foams front and rear.
The set up is a little different from out of the box. I'm sure he could post it up for you guys once he's done testing... it's still in the developing stages.
Our track is low-medium bite topsoil/clay mix.
10-11-2012, 08:19 PM
#1421
Tech Regular
Jason,
Your set-up states you are not running a slipper and 64 pitch gears. I was just wondering how is this achieved and who's gears are you running?
Also not sure how the calculation on 64 pitch gears is but isn't
88/33 * 2.6 = 6.9333 FDR?
Your set up looks fast, I'd like to try this when my RB6 comes
Cheers,
Your set-up states you are not running a slipper and 64 pitch gears. I was just wondering how is this achieved and who's gears are you running?
Also not sure how the calculation on 64 pitch gears is but isn't
88/33 * 2.6 = 6.9333 FDR?
Your set up looks fast, I'd like to try this when my RB6 comes
Cheers,
Also oops that's a typo, it should be a 43 not 33
In 48p it's like running 66/32, or 72/35 which doesn't fit unless you grind the motor plate and shave the gear cover.
To calculate between 48p and 64p
88/2 x 1.5 = 66
43/2 x 1.5 = 33 (rounded up)
This gearing gives the car power much higher in the rpm range (not much torque), which means if you slow down to much in a corner or scrub speed it takes a little more to get going, or it might be harder to clear a jump if you don't keep the speed up. I recommend you start a little lower to be honest, 72/33 48pitch and go up or down from there.
10-11-2012, 08:38 PM
#1422
10-11-2012, 08:38 PM
#1423
Tech Master
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I am using Kimbrough gears and something similar to this http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=322&id=7716
Also oops that's a typo, it should be a 43 not 33
In 48p it's like running 66/32, or 72/35 which doesn't fit unless you grind the motor plate and shave the gear cover.
To calculate between 48p and 64p
88/2 x 1.5 = 66
43/2 x 1.5 = 33 (rounded up)
This gearing gives the car power much higher in the rpm range (not much torque), which means if you slow down to much in a corner or scrub speed it takes a little more to get going, or it might be harder to clear a jump if you don't keep the speed up. I recommend you start a little lower to be honest, 72/33 48pitch and go up or down from there.
Also oops that's a typo, it should be a 43 not 33
In 48p it's like running 66/32, or 72/35 which doesn't fit unless you grind the motor plate and shave the gear cover.
To calculate between 48p and 64p
88/2 x 1.5 = 66
43/2 x 1.5 = 33 (rounded up)
This gearing gives the car power much higher in the rpm range (not much torque), which means if you slow down to much in a corner or scrub speed it takes a little more to get going, or it might be harder to clear a jump if you don't keep the speed up. I recommend you start a little lower to be honest, 72/33 48pitch and go up or down from there.
10-11-2012, 08:39 PM
#1424
Thanks for the help on the plugs guys!
I've built the front end, and the arms are quite stuck... Not moving freely! I don't know what i've done wrong, but i checked it and the shaft that goes inside the arm gets tightened when it reachs the arm... Don't know if i'm being clear enough!
Laters
I've built the front end, and the arms are quite stuck... Not moving freely! I don't know what i've done wrong, but i checked it and the shaft that goes inside the arm gets tightened when it reachs the arm... Don't know if i'm being clear enough!
Laters
10-11-2012, 08:42 PM
#1425
Tech Regular
I just updated my setup from last night, this will probably be the last "club racing" setup I post for the current layout.
http://jasondias.com/2012/10/12/kyos...st-rc-raceway/