Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Playing with your front roll center really isn't going to affect on-power steering (much). Roll center affects roll resistance, but exiting a corner you are lifting weight off the front tires, and pulling that end of the car OUT of it's roll. You can keep more weight on the front tires with the following:

1. More static weight on the front of the car
2. Less front droop
3. More Anti-squat
4. Stiffer rear springs/oil

???E-Racer

iTrader: (3)

Alright guys im about to jump the gun and get one of these cars.
After reading most of the thread this morning, this is probably
a better choice to the Losi 22 which is in fact kinda similar.
I notice most of you are running 22-23 tooth pinions with an 8.5 motor.

Are you guys using the kit included shock oil? Or would it better to change it?
Thanks, because im probably gonna be running on a dusty outdoor track.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

It's not similar to the 22, other than it has an aluminum chassis. So does the gold pan RC10. But you are right in that it is certainly a better choice, as long as parts and support is adequate for you. Both cars get around the track.

The kit shock oil is a tad light

t8rtot

iTrader: (14)

hahaha the joke in that is that there isn't oils included in the kit.

t8rtot

iTrader: (14)

use the Japan set up, its on here somewhere, that was at a track similar to your track as described.

Posvar

iTrader: (470)

Amazing that a car with aluminum chassis and a narrow look must be exactly like a 22. Lol
I will never miss my 22. This wasn't directed at anyone in particular but it is just laughable that all over the Internet the car is being called a 22 copy. It will be great when the 22 cars at my track get lapped!!!

Entr0phy

iTrader: (2)

First thing you want to do is remove any flashings off the arms or bulkhead. These little plastic pieces, from when you break the arms off the tree, will obviously cause binding. Secondly, make sure the holes in the arms and bulkhead are not too tight for the hinge pin. Sometimes, you will need to take an xacto blade and make the holes larger, so that the hinge pins can move freely. Just be careful not to make them too large. A body reamer will also work well for this task. I would also check to make sure that your hinge pins are inserted in the front bulkhead/arms in the proper orientation. There is a long and short segment on either side of the space for the set screw. I believe the short side goes in first, while the long side is up front and captured by the hinge pin brace ( I could be mistaking on the direction, defer to your manual to make sure). Also, make sure your set screw is not overtightened, if it is, this will bind up the arms. I had absolutely no binding when I built this car...hopefully this helps.

eper

iTrader: (14)

you could try moving the rear hubs back a bit to remove a little forward bite which would then give back some on power steering

???E-Racer

iTrader: (3)

I knew you guys would get a good laugh. Well shock oil is pretty cheap
so they probably didnt include it because the car really needs to be adjusted
to your driving style. Most people dont use the kit oil anyhow
unless it's an AE kit. Yeah I wanna kick some 22 butt with the Kyosho as well. LOL

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Yep.. same reason they don't include tires.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

No shock oil is included.

steam

iTrader: (10)

Mine didn't come with shock oil

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

Will the Lunsford RB5 titanium turnbuckle kit fit the rb6? And which one, it seems that they make a couple different kits depending on which rb5 you have. Thanks.

Jason.Dias

The one on the inside? 2mm? I have it on the front side.

K_King

iTrader: (47)

Ahhhh I ran mine in the rear. I'm guessing that's a huge adjustment.