172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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02-07-2014, 07:51 PM
#9737
[quote=glenng;12986379]
I tightened it good, I did leave the brass shim in, as the elim doesn't fit to replace it.
Mine fit on fine, it sticks out too far so the gear cover doesn't fit, I practiced with it anyway, worked fine. I am going to file down the back part so it sits closer to the back plate like it should, this will also give more threads on the lock nut.[/QUOTE
Interesting. Was it just the behind the backplate part that fit? Or u even got a snug fit on front shaft part? If its the backplate part, maybe i need to try again and squeeze it on harder. I dont like putting too much pressure on the shaft out of fear of bending it. Also, did u have to remove the kyosho brass spacer? And if so did u shim the gap? And was the behind backplate fitment really snug/tight requiring force? Thanks Mike!
Interesting. Was it just the behind the backplate part that fit? Or u even got a snug fit on front shaft part? If its the backplate part, maybe i need to try again and squeeze it on harder. I dont like putting too much pressure on the shaft out of fear of bending it. Also, did u have to remove the kyosho brass spacer? And if so did u shim the gap? And was the behind backplate fitment really snug/tight requiring force? Thanks Mike!
02-07-2014, 08:00 PM
#9738
02-07-2014, 09:50 PM
#9739
Is it possible to get a jcon finisher c4.2 body on a rb6 mid motor? I just got a fresh lid for my c4 and then decided to get a rb6. Hoping it will fit.
02-08-2014, 09:37 AM
#9741
02-08-2014, 02:57 PM
#9742
I had the same issue on my rb5, nothing I did helped, tried shims everywhere. Eventually I filed the stock hexes hole out just enough to fit over the avid axle and that worked, its like the pin recess on the avid hex was too deep and the axle was as far out as it could go.
Easier.
Ciao,
02-08-2014, 08:32 PM
#9743
Hey guys, I was seriously having some traction issues with my mid motor rb6 with our recent track rebuild. It wasn't horrible, but it wasn't good. I didn't want to go to a lighter spring in the rear (running golds) so I opted to go with 1mm more front droop. This got me the on power traction I was missing, and a significant amount of low speed steering as well. Since I am running the 5 hole pistons in the front, I went up in oil to 37.5 from 35 to calm the front down on corner entry. I then lowered the rear roll center (no washers on the hubs) for a bit more off power traction in slow sections.
Been really happy with these changes. Definitely a good move for our slow low speed and slippery layout that would probably deal better with a rear motor car.
Wayne
Been really happy with these changes. Definitely a good move for our slow low speed and slippery layout that would probably deal better with a rear motor car.
Wayne
02-09-2014, 02:14 PM
#9744
Can somebody measure the wing mounts for me? Center to center? Thanks in advance!
02-09-2014, 05:58 PM
#9747
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I think he said what he did to it in his post but wasn't 100% clear....
02-09-2014, 07:04 PM
#9749
http://www.fastlanemachine.net/products.php?cat=Kyosho
02-09-2014, 09:06 PM
#9750
Personally I think it depends more on track type, layout and driving style more then anything else. See how the fast guys at your track are running it. If you have a heavy trigger finger and enter the corners very aggressively then Rm will be more forgiving, if your a smooth fluid driver then I think MM will be advantageous to use.