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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-15-2013, 10:56 AM
  #8971  
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So this is how I have it setup.


I dont know why the pictures are sideways.
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-20131215_104159.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-20131215_104248.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-20131215_104303.jpg  
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Old 12-15-2013, 02:58 PM
  #8972  
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Whats the purpose of the foam under the ball studs!? Does it matter? Ive built the car without them but it seems some people do and others dont?
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Old 12-15-2013, 03:41 PM
  #8973  
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Originally Posted by FallenAllDay
Whats the purpose of the foam under the ball studs!? Does it matter? Ive built the car without them but it seems some people do and others dont?
To keep dirt from getting under the ballcups so they move freely.
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Old 12-15-2013, 03:59 PM
  #8974  
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If you race indoor really no point. Just good on outdoor sandy tracks.
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Old 12-15-2013, 04:49 PM
  #8975  
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What tires you guys use on front for mid motor set up indoor clay?

Bar codes seem to not hook up.

I'm using bar codes on the back..
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:41 PM
  #8976  
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Does Exotek make an aluminum Wide-Rear-Inner-Suspension-Holder? All I see is the outer one on their website ?
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Old 12-15-2013, 10:15 PM
  #8977  
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Originally Posted by yodace
Does Exotek make an aluminum Wide-Rear-Inner-Suspension-Holder? All I see is the outer one on their website ?
For mid motor or rear motor?
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Old 12-16-2013, 01:26 AM
  #8978  
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Originally Posted by iMarky
What tires you guys use on front for mid motor set up indoor clay?

Bar codes seem to not hook up.

I'm using bar codes on the back..
I've been liking the Pro Line Suburbs in MC on the front. Seems like it has more steering with out over steering.
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Old 12-16-2013, 01:28 AM
  #8979  
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Originally Posted by nickdawg18
For mid motor or rear motor?
Yes for mid motor
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:28 AM
  #8980  
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Originally Posted by nickdawg18
i had a problem today that cost me the A main. I came down from a jump and kinda overshot the landing so there was a little chassis slap. The positive battery wire slapped the damn mode button on my esc. I was like WTF. It happened twice. but the buggy ran awesome. TQ'd and led the majority of the race until that crap happened. but you live and you learn. I think I'm gonna ditch tekin in 1/10th scale and and go orion.
Looking at your pics I see how your battery wire can press buttons. I have a gen 1 and I removed the buttons. Remove the 4 screws from the back and open the case up. The buttons are really just extensions. Save them for later and use your .05 allen to push the mode button. I assume the gen 2 would work the same. I think tekin is great and would hate to change to anything else. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:37 AM
  #8981  
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Originally Posted by Arcain41
Looking at your pics I see how your battery wire can press buttons. I have a gen 1 and I removed the buttons. Remove the 4 screws from the back and open the case up. The buttons are really just extensions. Save them for later and use your .05 allen to push the mode button. I assume the gen 2 would work the same. I think tekin is great and would hate to change to anything else. Hope this helps.
I think the way that i have the two wires zip tied together is gonna solve that problem. The positive wire was the one hitting the mode button and that was before i zip tied them together. The way i have it now, there's no way it can hit the button. But I like your idea of taking out the buttons. I might just do that. Will it void the warranty if I open it up though?
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:13 AM
  #8982  
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Originally Posted by nickdawg18
So this is how I have it setup.
The best config I've tried for my track is motor, esc, saddles, rec, and servo. I do think this config requires high bite to really shine as the balance of the car in sweepers is phenomenally good. It pivots well and probably the easiest driving config I've tried on the RB6.

I know I've posted this before but with forums......not everyone gets a chance to see all the posts.

http://2wdmod.com/2013/11/14/2wd-clo...winning-setup/

I recommend trying this setup it if you track is medium to high grip. If it's not marked in the setup sheet...then it's box stock.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:18 AM
  #8983  
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing
I've been liking the Pro Line Suburbs in MC on the front. Seems like it has more steering with out over steering.
What inner foam are you using?

I tired a close cell before but seems to push due to its a stiffer foam.. I used the stock foams that came with the tire also but it don't last long.. The foam degrade before the tire wears out.. I do the the stock foam for a rear tire and cut 3/4 of it and stuff it on the front tires..
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Old 12-16-2013, 11:10 AM
  #8984  
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We've been running 4wd closed cell in the front of our 2wd buggies at our track for club racing. It pushes the first few runs, but it's good after that, and lasts forever. The closed cell stuff doesn't hold up that well either with the kind of grip we have at times, so the 4wd foams really help in the wear department.
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Old 12-16-2013, 07:25 PM
  #8985  
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I'm checking everything and I did forget to trim the bulk head due to its supposed be bind but I notice it's not.. looks like this been fixed by factory ?

What you think? Don't want to take it apart again knowing it's not binding. .
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