aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

The reason I asked is because with shorter ends, and 23.5 ride height, the preload is so high on the xgear springs (it acts like a spring one-two rates stiffer) that it looses traction in the bumpy stuff and has trouble sticking not so perfect landings (xgears are a progressive type of spring). So I need to run longish shock ends and reduce droop. Of course I can also run pink xgears (running whites cody king setup), but my stock car is exactly 1505 grams, so might need something softer than pinks if I ran short shock ends alongwith 24/23.5 ride heights.

Gonna test a couple of 1.5x2 tapered and non tapered pistons, for now loving the tapers conical part facing the sky.

eper

iTrader: (14)

The longer shock ends should be used with the gulwing arms. The shape of the arm actually won't work well with the shorter shock end. You won't get enough droop. Lack of droop will make the car jump differently and not so good in the ruff.

glenng

iTrader: (1)

with the shorty transverse against the motor, i used it. also have a lo pro servo, so needed more steering and it helped a lot. re-building car right now for inline shorty against motor and going back to aluminum piece.

Ultraspeed84

iTrader: (45)

delete problem solved.

ColbyRichards

iTrader: (1)

Any one have a good low traction dirt set up for mid motor?

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

Honestly I have ran the mid motor on low traction. I ran tebo's OCRC setup. It worked but I switched to rear motor and was faster. Mid motor will not work as good. Rear motor just feels more planted

Jason.Dias

Try this looser style track setup

Front:
35wt Losi Oil/Losi 55 Pistons/Pink Spring/Medium Shock End Used
Outside location on tower / Outside location on arm (front shock shaft length exposed 20.5mm)
Middle on bulkhead with 1mm shim under ballstud / 1mm shim under casterblock ballstud
Casterblocks spaced in middle position on the arm
Spindle in Upper Position / No bump steer spacers used
Ackerman bar ran in standard position as in the Manual / No ball stud spacers used
Caster Inserts and RB6 Front Axles used the same as in the Manual
25 with no spacer

Rear:
27.5wt Losi Oil/Losi 55 Pistons/White Spring/Short Shock End Used
1 hole out on tower / Middle hole on RB5 arm UM521-1 (rear shock shaft length exposed was 27mm)
Outside on bulkhead with 2mm shim under ballstud / 2mm shim under ballstud in back/outside hole on .5 degree aluminum hubs
Hubs spaced in middle position on the arm
Wide plastic front and rear suspension mounts

Ride Height: 25mm front and 24mm rear

Team Orion Shorty 4000mah Battery used spaced back in standard direction with ESC located in front location by Servo.

Tires Used:
Front: AKA Super Soft 3-Ribs with Red Foam
Rear: AKA Super Soft Impacts with Red Foam

Ultraspeed84

iTrader: (45)

anyone know what D/in and D/in will give me for rear toe? scratch that just found the link for all the inserts

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...5UMW706UMW707/

Gayosaka

When using the same value front and rear (like here with D/in D/in), you get the same toe as stock (3° for each wheel) and only play with rear width.

Eric Tomczyk

iTrader: (96)

True, and to add to that, one letter change is 0.5* two letters difference is 1*, etc...

chad508

iTrader: (6)

if i use the stock plastic narrow rf hanger and adjustable rr hanger what is the narrowest i can go and still have 3* toe. or better yet what does the narrow rf hanger equal to on the adjustable hanger

K_King

iTrader: (47)

Anyone try the 521-1 arms lately with the new chassis?

Johnn27

iTrader: (89)

Will be running it this friday nite in midship configuration!

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

I put all carbon LW parts on my car yesterday, crazy weight savings, towers are 3 grams less, each arm around 2.5, shaved off close to 20 plus grams! great for stock racing to reduce unsprung weight.