aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

The problem with the avids in front is the hex is too deep so it binds up quite easily on the fronts. The rears are fine if you use a serrated nut. The closest are the jconcepts mono. I have not tried aka but they look like they would work from what I saw in the LHS.

AZRC4Me

iTrader: (8)

I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but when we were initially testing setups, Derek enlightened me that if you swap the front caster bushings from side to side (run the B side bushing on the front right, but hole on the inside) it will have the opposite effect, i.e. it will subtract that value of caster angle (2, 4 degress). So, with two different bulkhead/kickup settings, and 5 possible caster insert settings, you can end up with the following total caster angles:

Bulkhead @ 25deg: 21 (rf = B4 bushing), 23 (rf = B2 bushing), 25 (rf = A0 bushing), 27 (rf = A2 bushing), 29 (rf = A4 bushing).

Bulkhead @ 30deg: 26 (rf = B4 bushing), 28 (rf = B2 bushing), 30 (rf = A0 bushing), 32 (rf = A2 bushing), 34 (rf = A4 bushing).

If for some reason you wanted to run the holes on the outside, it would be the opposite of this, i.e. the B on the right side would add caster, A would subtract.

mikeyscott

Anyone using the Jconcepts or AKA wheels on their RB6?

DeanV

iTrader: (6)

JC and AKA both fit good. AKA fronts fit better than JC (more snug, less wobble). Serrated nut recommended for both brand rears.

Dean

mikeyscott

Cheers,

From what I saw there isn't enough thread on the rear axle, even with the standard non nylon m4 nuts.

I have some AKA wheels at present. Just mulling JC wheels as my normal retailer for Kyosho wheels is out of stock for fronts.

M

lbckevin

iTrader: (107)

I always run the Losi serrated nuts on my Kyosho cars. Never lost a wheel. I have tried the JC wheels and they are ok...just look beat up after a couple days.

pekow91

iTrader: (45)

I just ordered the Exotek steering rack and I wanted to see if anyone tried their steering crank. Is it worth getting or is the stock one just fine?

t8rtot

iTrader: (14)

i haven't ordered the cranks but i do have the rack. exotek has great quality, i don't thing you can go wrong with any hop-ups. i don't like to have all that alloy there and no servo saver so i'll keep mine plastic as they're holding up fine.

i'm really interested in hubs and rear hangers next.

pekow91

iTrader: (45)

Ok thanks. I will keep the stock ones then. I dont want to make a bunch of upgrades that are unnecessary. I have used their products before and they are top notch. I am excited to see what else they put out.

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Agreed on the rear hubs and frnt spindles as well. I dont see the need to upgrade anything other than the rack for the steering as well.

toast.

iTrader: (14)

i've read that upgrading ball studs may be a good idea

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

If they make front hubs that will be very nice. Tired of stripping out the stock plastic pieces. But on the upside I have a few sets that have the longer ball studs in them with all the different caster inserts. easy swap if I want to make a change.

Energyzer

People, in a track like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADMB3Rpvuh0

do you think gold/gold springs + 450F/550R (ultimate) oils with the stock pistons could be a good setup? It's 100% astro.

Cheers

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

I never stripped that. Are you adding 3mm set screws in the unoccupied hole? That seems to help a lot with stripping.

Yeti AS3

iTrader: (77)

The K studs are awesome. Just use the mediums in the caster blocks. I have found that using Lunsford (or any that use a hex driver in the center of the ball) in the rear camber block is the way to go. You cant get a stud to go in straight using a nut driver.