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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-13-2012, 11:24 AM   #2551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
The axle hole on the wheel seems smaller? If so, just open it up a little bit with a reamer or xacto if need be. No need to change axles. In fact, I ream all of my non-kyosho wheels to make the holes bigger.

If the hole in the wheel is to big I wouldn't worry about it because it will become centered on the hex instead.
The problem with the avids in front is the hex is too deep so it binds up quite easily on the fronts. The rears are fine if you use a serrated nut. The closest are the jconcepts mono. I have not tried aka but they look like they would work from what I saw in the LHS.
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:47 AM   #2552
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I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but when we were initially testing setups, Derek enlightened me that if you swap the front caster bushings from side to side (run the B side bushing on the front right, but hole on the inside) it will have the opposite effect, i.e. it will subtract that value of caster angle (2, 4 degress). So, with two different bulkhead/kickup settings, and 5 possible caster insert settings, you can end up with the following total caster angles:

Bulkhead @ 25deg: 21 (rf = B4 bushing), 23 (rf = B2 bushing), 25 (rf = A0 bushing), 27 (rf = A2 bushing), 29 (rf = A4 bushing).

Bulkhead @ 30deg: 26 (rf = B4 bushing), 28 (rf = B2 bushing), 30 (rf = A0 bushing), 32 (rf = A2 bushing), 34 (rf = A4 bushing).

If for some reason you wanted to run the holes on the outside, it would be the opposite of this, i.e. the B on the right side would add caster, A would subtract.
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:14 PM   #2553
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Anyone using the Jconcepts or AKA wheels on their RB6?
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:28 PM   #2554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyscott View Post
Anyone using the Jconcepts or AKA wheels on their RB6?
JC and AKA both fit good. AKA fronts fit better than JC (more snug, less wobble). Serrated nut recommended for both brand rears.

Dean
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:32 PM   #2555
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Originally Posted by DeanV View Post
JC and AKA both fit good. AKA fronts fit better than JC (more snug, less wobble). Serrated nut recommended for both brand rears.

Dean
Cheers,

From what I saw there isn't enough thread on the rear axle, even with the standard non nylon m4 nuts.

I have some AKA wheels at present. Just mulling JC wheels as my normal retailer for Kyosho wheels is out of stock for fronts.

M
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:56 PM   #2556
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I always run the Losi serrated nuts on my Kyosho cars. Never lost a wheel. I have tried the JC wheels and they are ok...just look beat up after a couple days.
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Old 11-13-2012, 01:39 PM   #2557
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I just ordered the Exotek steering rack and I wanted to see if anyone tried their steering crank. Is it worth getting or is the stock one just fine?
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:03 PM   #2558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pekow91 View Post
I just ordered the Exotek steering rack and I wanted to see if anyone tried their steering crank. Is it worth getting or is the stock one just fine?
i haven't ordered the cranks but i do have the rack. exotek has great quality, i don't thing you can go wrong with any hop-ups. i don't like to have all that alloy there and no servo saver so i'll keep mine plastic as they're holding up fine.

i'm really interested in hubs and rear hangers next.
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:11 PM   #2559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
i haven't ordered the cranks but i do have the rack. exotek has great quality, i don't thing you can go wrong with any hop-ups. i don't like to have all that alloy there and no servo saver so i'll keep mine plastic as they're holding up fine.

i'm really interested in hubs and rear hangers next.
Ok thanks. I will keep the stock ones then. I dont want to make a bunch of upgrades that are unnecessary. I have used their products before and they are top notch. I am excited to see what else they put out.
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:33 PM   #2560
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Agreed on the rear hubs and frnt spindles as well. I dont see the need to upgrade anything other than the rack for the steering as well.
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:46 PM   #2561
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i've read that upgrading ball studs may be a good idea
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:47 PM   #2562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
i haven't ordered the cranks but i do have the rack. exotek has great quality, i don't thing you can go wrong with any hop-ups. i don't like to have all that alloy there and no servo saver so i'll keep mine plastic as they're holding up fine.

i'm really interested in hubs and rear hangers next.
If they make front hubs that will be very nice. Tired of stripping out the stock plastic pieces. But on the upside I have a few sets that have the longer ball studs in them with all the different caster inserts. easy swap if I want to make a change.
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Old 11-13-2012, 03:16 PM   #2563
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People, in a track like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADMB3Rpvuh0

do you think gold/gold springs + 450F/550R (ultimate) oils with the stock pistons could be a good setup? It's 100% astro.

Cheers
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:04 PM   #2564
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
If they make front hubs that will be very nice. Tired of stripping out the stock plastic pieces. But on the upside I have a few sets that have the longer ball studs in them with all the different caster inserts. easy swap if I want to make a change.
I never stripped that. Are you adding 3mm set screws in the unoccupied hole? That seems to help a lot with stripping.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:35 PM   #2565
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i've read that upgrading ball studs may be a good idea
The K studs are awesome. Just use the mediums in the caster blocks. I have found that using Lunsford (or any that use a hex driver in the center of the ball) in the rear camber block is the way to go. You cant get a stud to go in straight using a nut driver.
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