1LikesTLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)
02-26-2014, 08:00 AM
#9511
Hey Frank, one thing that I forgot to mention is that I never did switch to the 2.0 buggy axles. I am still running the stock axles.
Will going to the 2.0 axles on the truck (with no shim) have a similar effect as it did on the buggy when I went from running the shim to not running the shim?
actually let me rephrase that. Will it have as significant of an effect? I felt on the buggy this was a huge change.
Will going to the 2.0 axles on the truck (with no shim) have a similar effect as it did on the buggy when I went from running the shim to not running the shim?
actually let me rephrase that. Will it have as significant of an effect? I felt on the buggy this was a huge change.
02-26-2014, 08:19 AM
#9512
Second biggest is A vs D camber link.
Springs, oils, pistons... they all make changes (obviously) but honestly there are so many combinations that feel good. And when you look at the variations in setups, you will see that everyone is in the same ball park for oils, pistons, and springs. Maybe a half weight difference here or there, one step softer spring here or there, etc.
When I changed from 1-A to 1-D, my car rotated significantly less and gave a more confident feel when driving. If the surface is high bite, I tend to leave 1-A on. If the grip is anything less than high bite, I usually go with 1-D so that I can give the car a little more locked in feel.
now I know that the link choices we run on the truck are different, but the mechanics behind them aren't. If you want more rotation in the turns, go 1 step shorter, etc.
02-26-2014, 08:24 AM
#9513
, so I might defer to setup changes for that class, same with the colder temps.Usually, when the temps get colder, you need to go to a softer oil, not sure if it'll be down 2.5 front and rear or 5wt. I would need to feel that on the bench.
02-26-2014, 08:44 AM
#9514
when I removed the shim from the buggy, it immediately locked the rear end in. It was by far the biggest change I have made in the car. You could get on the gas quicker and power out of the turns harder. You get the feel of increasing rear Toe without having to do that. (make sense?)
Second biggest is A vs D camber link.
Springs, oils, pistons... they all make changes (obviously) but honestly there are so many combinations that feel good. And when you look at the variations in setups, you will see that everyone is in the same ball park for oils, pistons, and springs. Maybe a half weight difference here or there, one step softer spring here or there, etc.
When I changed from 1-A to 1-D, my car rotated significantly less and gave a more confident feel when driving. If the surface is high bite, I tend to leave 1-A on. If the grip is anything less than high bite, I usually go with 1-D so that I can give the car a little more locked in feel.
now I know that the link choices we run on the truck are different, but the mechanics behind them aren't. If you want more rotation in the turns, go 1 step shorter, etc.
Second biggest is A vs D camber link.
Springs, oils, pistons... they all make changes (obviously) but honestly there are so many combinations that feel good. And when you look at the variations in setups, you will see that everyone is in the same ball park for oils, pistons, and springs. Maybe a half weight difference here or there, one step softer spring here or there, etc.
When I changed from 1-A to 1-D, my car rotated significantly less and gave a more confident feel when driving. If the surface is high bite, I tend to leave 1-A on. If the grip is anything less than high bite, I usually go with 1-D so that I can give the car a little more locked in feel.
now I know that the link choices we run on the truck are different, but the mechanics behind them aren't. If you want more rotation in the turns, go 1 step shorter, etc.
Bob, what shim are you guys talking about, I think i missed something somewhere.
02-26-2014, 06:26 PM
#9517
Tech Rookie
Tranny lift
So I was trying to do the 1mm tyranny lift, and while on a rear mount it is straight forward, trying to do a mid motor mount has me scratching my head. Does the mid motor even need it, if so do I need more spacers as I see 3 trans mounting spots on mm setup
02-27-2014, 05:16 AM
#9518
when I removed the shim from the buggy, it immediately locked the rear end in. It was by far the biggest change I have made in the car. You could get on the gas quicker and power out of the turns harder. You get the feel of increasing rear Toe without having to do that. (make sense?)
Second biggest is A vs D camber link.
Springs, oils, pistons... they all make changes (obviously) but honestly there are so many combinations that feel good. And when you look at the variations in setups, you will see that everyone is in the same ball park for oils, pistons, and springs. Maybe a half weight difference here or there, one step softer spring here or there, etc.
When I changed from 1-A to 1-D, my car rotated significantly less and gave a more confident feel when driving. If the surface is high bite, I tend to leave 1-A on. If the grip is anything less than high bite, I usually go with 1-D so that I can give the car a little more locked in feel.
now I know that the link choices we run on the truck are different, but the mechanics behind them aren't. If you want more rotation in the turns, go 1 step shorter, etc.
Second biggest is A vs D camber link.
Springs, oils, pistons... they all make changes (obviously) but honestly there are so many combinations that feel good. And when you look at the variations in setups, you will see that everyone is in the same ball park for oils, pistons, and springs. Maybe a half weight difference here or there, one step softer spring here or there, etc.
When I changed from 1-A to 1-D, my car rotated significantly less and gave a more confident feel when driving. If the surface is high bite, I tend to leave 1-A on. If the grip is anything less than high bite, I usually go with 1-D so that I can give the car a little more locked in feel.
now I know that the link choices we run on the truck are different, but the mechanics behind them aren't. If you want more rotation in the turns, go 1 step shorter, etc.
02-27-2014, 07:52 AM
#9520
IF you're lifting the trans in mid motor to gain more grip you maybe better off going back to rear motor...
02-27-2014, 07:56 AM
#9521
Thanks Bob. That's the feel i'm looking for. I'm going to remove it from my 2.0 buggy and see what happens. Just waiting on some of the parts to finish up w the SCT re-build. Looking forward to trying out this new setup. Need to get it dialed in before the Showdown next month.
02-27-2014, 11:46 AM
#9523
So a little update. I cleaned up the body mounting a bit and moved the cage and body back.
This is the old spacing at the back of the cage.
Here is the new spacing. Seems much better, looks cleaner to me. I now have front body mounts from the xxx-scb.
Here are the front body mounts on the front tower.
This is the old spacing at the back of the cage.
Here is the new spacing. Seems much better, looks cleaner to me. I now have front body mounts from the xxx-scb.
Here are the front body mounts on the front tower.
02-27-2014, 12:28 PM
#9524
Hi guys. This question has probably been answered before, but I've searched many pages without finding an answer. I just ordered my 22SCT with a handful of recommended upgrades, however I ordered the 2.0 2mm Aluminum front spindle set without checking if it will properly fit, or whether it comes with the kingpins like the older 4mm set?