drepus

I've had 3 gear diffs and they all fit fine without sanding anything.

ufoDziner

iTrader: (39)

Rear or Mid motor? I have not tried to use one in a rear motor configuration.

dirt42fan

iTrader: (154)

How do u stop them from leaking? I have not figured out that part.

ufoDziner

iTrader: (39)

Mine leak through the o-rings, so I just got some new silicon o-rings to try. I'll let you know if it solves the problem.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Someone needs to source X rings for the gear diffs cuz the X rings for the shocks are leak proof.

BOLISARIO

iTrader: (57)

What are the dimensions of the O-rings? I just ordered a gear diff for my 22SCT build(I suck at building ball diffs) and want it to be leak proof the first time out.


Have you tried coating the o rings with Mobil One grease? I use it on all my gear diff o rings and works well. But if the o ring doesn't seal the outdrives well to begin with(like the early releases of the HPI Blitz), then it's back to square one.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Good luck with that. I tried brand new stock rings, I tried several aftermarket rings (including silicone), lubed them, etc... still leaked. I gave up on the TLR gear diff, but I'm glad I did as I was forced to get better at building ball diffs. Now it takes no time at all

BOLISARIO

iTrader: (57)

^^This^^ but also for MM with shorty lipo? If you can post pics that would be great.

I have the 2.0 mid/rear battery mount set but i don't think I can use the mid motor tranny brace and swivel battery holder due to the SCT tranny brace being used for the body mounts.

Or if you use the RM esc tray in front of the MM tranny brace, do you have to drill new holes on the chassis?

drepus

I have only run gear diffs mid motor on carpet. Always run ball diffs on dirt

They seem to be ok when newer but when the orings get older they definitely need the oil topped up regularity. I too would be very interested in trying an x ring type seal.

WIGMAN

iTrader: (19)

I used the 2.0 system MM on my 22sct. I just drilled a couple holes in the 22SCT tranny brace, put a battery in it, put the swivel piece on the make the top so you know where to drill the holes. pretty easy and it works great.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

For those guys looking for a setup for the 22SCT with the 22 2.0 parts, I started with Frank Root's setup today minus the raised tranny and it was really good. I highly suggest you start there first.

Oh I also did not have the 3 oz of weight behind the battery.

jrz93

iTrader: (9)

with the # TLR1049 brass 25 degree kick angle shim, does it go below the chassis above the block or above the chassis under the bulkhead? if i put it below chassis my aluminum rack binds?
on my 22t i have the horizontal steering rack , no binding
the binding occurs on the sc with aluminum rack stock slider??

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

it goes bulkhead, alum kick plate, then chassis.

Look here http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...024_Manual.pdf

Step A9. In these directions, the bulkhead and kick plate are combined in part TLR5964.

ufoDziner

iTrader: (39)

These are the o-rings I ordered:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5233t48/=pq6fmm

They fit pretty tightly, so you might want to wait and see what my results are. Although getting 50ea for $10 is what made it worth the test for me.

jrz93

iTrader: (9)

with the # TLR1049 brass 25 degree kick angle shim, does it go below the chassis above the block or above the chassis under the bulkhead? if i put it below chassis my aluminum rack binds?
on my 22t i have the horizontal steering rack , no binding
the binding occurs on the sc with aluminum rack stock slider??

this piece
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR1049





thats the stock im talking about this

-Most TLR Team drivers (and many club racers) are running the Aluminum 22 Buggy Front Pivot Part # TLR1072 with the Brass front 25 deg shim Part # TLR1049 rather than the 30 deg 22T/SCT front Pivot Part # TLR1105. This allows it to be more adjustable and so you can use less than 30 deg kick up if you so choose. They've been combining this combo with the 5 degree caster blocks Part # TLR1058 (plastic, included with original kit) or Part # TLR 1046 (aluminum) to achieve the 30 deg kick up anyway for most of the current setup sheets, but this may change in the future and this allows you to play with kick up angles of either less or more than 30 deg. This is a good article to help you understand kick-up angles http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2011/...lr-22-22t.html

so it goes bulkhead, alum kick plate, then chassis, then