AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

given the 22 1.0 and (current) 22sct both use the same spindles, I would think that with such a large 3.0" inner diameter wheel SCT's currently work with, I would think an update of similar spec to the 22 2.0 would be possible.
I can't complain too much about the current kit, 8 months and no broken parts, but IMO a little smoother steering would make it perfect.
I have in fact ordered the 22 2.0 spindles, blocks and rack and the new shock x-rings, would love to give them a try.
and with 22 2.0 buggy kits shipping already, they may be here soon.....

nitro_mt_racer

iTrader: (241)

Can't imagine we'd see anything in the near future as that truck is just a year old.

Maddog94

iTrader: (44)

Hey guys I have a diff question. I like the way my truck drives with the ball diff but I hate the constant maintenance, the barking, the adjusting... so, I'm considering dropping in a gear diff.

My question is, what diff oil would be comparable to a properly adjusted ball diff?

3D-Seth

iTrader: (36)

I'll preface this by saying not that familiar with the truck, nor the TLR gear diff, but I've played with a few on my 1/8th scale, as well as my touring car.

I would think something around 3000 to start with. If it needs free'd up more, then go lighter, if it feels loose or all over the place then go a bit heavier.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I think somewhere around 5K is right

But... and a big but (and I cannot lie)... the TLR gear diff sucks. It will leak, it's very annoying. Trust me, I shared your frustrations and wasted a lot of time trying to get the gear diff to work. Not worth it.

The fact that you mentioned barking your ball diff leads me to believe that you're not breaking it in correctly. You should never let the ball diff bark, once you do.. might as well rebuild it again. If you build it properly, it should last a while. Having said all that, I switched to the B-Fast ball diff and it is much, much nicer and lasts much longer.

Ant73

iTrader: (6)

I can't quite gauge....

Will the 2.0 spindle, caster blocks and rack be advantageous on the SCT over the current parts? If so, does that mean there are no geometry improvements on the 22 2.0 front arms? Just the hole change or is there a geometry change as well and if there is, how then will it be an advantage to apply it to the sct?

Just read this after I typed and posted about front arms....
"The outer shock mounting location is omitted, and the front shock mounting locations are moved 2mm to the front, so the steering link will clear the shock spring."

So it looks like the new stuff won't fit on the old 22 front arms but will it on the SCT and is it worth it?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

You should try building a diff with a Casper-RC thrust bearing. BFast stuff is good but you need to try a grooved thrust washer setup!

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

That plus the new post heat treat machined out drives. The 22 diffs in the SCT and Truck have been pretty terrible but these two changes should help quite a bit.

spider882009

iTrader: (7)

Is the new steering rack from TLR out for the 22SCT??? If so what is the part #... Mine has been good, but started having some steering problems lately. Can't ??? mine it has had over 100 races on carpet and dirt. Dont want the exotek! Hoping it is the rack and not the servo.

silvercrxsir

I was going through the setup database and found the Mitch newred setup which happens to be my local track,problem I came across was the kick up and caster settings werent checked off,is there a basic standard caster and kick up setting or something I think my truck ha 30 kickup and 10 caster

Cpt Obvious

I've never had any trouble out of either of my trucks diffs at all, what sort of issue were you having?
Yep, 30*/10* stock. I've also been surprised that the section was left blank on all the TLR setup sheets. 30*/0* seems to be the most common, I've run the 25*/5* and 30*/0* on a high bite outdoor track, and only noticed a slight difference in mid corner speed and better initial turn-in

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

grooved thrust bearings IMO are way better. no break-in for the thrust washers makes it a lot easier to reach a setting.

from what i have seen lately, most everybody is running 30/0 or 25/5.
if its a high bite track, probably 25/5.

silvercrxsir

Ya its high bite,ill try 30 and 0 and see how that works,if not I'm prob sure ill run into Jr Mitch pretty soon and ill ask him

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I already have your thrust washer, it's what I've been using until my last rebuild with B-Fast. I will admit that the captured balls in grooved rings was super easy to assemble. But, I like to try different things, so now I'm trying ceramic thrust balls

Brian L

iTrader: (21)

Part #231013 for the new slider. I believe it shows it will not be in stock till around the 20th.

I am going to try some of the new 2.0 front end parts. I was told they will not make as much of a difference as the buggy cause of the offset of the wheel on the SC.

The set-up sheet I have for J.R. at Newred has 30/0 on it.