easye

iTrader: (3)

X2

AlienModified

iTrader: (6)

Won my first B-main since I started racing SCT! This is the first time I've made the A-main when there were enough cars to have a B-main.

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

I was looking or more general set up advise on how to move motor weight to the rear, IE raise the front ride height 1mm, more droop in front (which is what I did, help some, but would like a little more rear bite still. Might add more weight via a full size battery.)

Going to have to ask what intel you speak of. When there is only one side of an argument thats not intel. I am sure the rear motor works great, but the kit doesn't even have a base mid motor set up in it. So I am going to have to go with not even the factory has tried it that much or not enough to be cofident with a base set up.

I seem to be the only one brave enough to try Mid Motor. Everyone else seems to be to scared to test it out. Yes it takes more time than just copying a factory drivers set-up but thats what I enjoy. Tweeking and testing, just needed some advise.

vito

droping off the truck at lhs to get the motor hook up and esc set up

Antimullet

iTrader: (65)

Proffessor bravery really? Didn't you ask for opinions? Its known that rear motor has better bite than mid.

Its not that people are scared we just know what to run on dirt.....

You can try harder front and softer rear springs. Lighter rear shock oil. Maybe a front swaybar. Reduce rear antisquat. Move the battery aft.

Some of those may help with mid motor.

NOS1K

iTrader: (4)

What about some different front tires for more push? The fullsize battery has to also put more on rear,but also also some more in front at same time?? Ive actually been running your midmotor setup on med bite clay and had same issue, had to put less grip tires in front for huge improvement. Im a novice and running within .5sec of the pros running rear motor. I'm like you in going against the grain trying to be different. I still have faith in this setup but i have yet to run on loose surface so time will tell.

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

I have thought of trying that, but not sure about the predictablity/consistancy of that kind of set-up. I also as of now only have 3 sets of tires and really dont want to shell out anymore $$$. The blockades and hole shots actually work about the same, and the MC compound suburbs I am afraid would push so bad that it would do more harm than good.

Thanks for the advice. I'll try try it as soon as I can get some more tires. I am thinking Tazers m3/m4, mabey some m2 holeshots/blockades. And good luck on your mid motor. Maybe the tide will turn against "convintional wisdom". More and more companies are offering both, or conversions, so I think we are just ahead of the game. I think the trick to the mid motor on meim/low grip surfaces is weight. I added a ton to my MM 22 (front and rear) and now its awesome. I just dont have anymore right now to test on the truck.

vito

not much room for the motor tabs it tight fit

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Mid motor on medium to low grip? Yeah thats gonna suck!
I ran mid motor on my 22T at a medium/high grip indoor clay track and it sucked there! Went rear motor and it was lights out!

But good uck there, maybe you could try a lil more rear toe, the 4 degree blocks perhaps? Or a lil more rear weight.

NPETRO

iTrader: (5)

I just received my Hot Rc sway bar kit....very good quality. Im running rear motor and the front end of the car looks easy to install the sway bar, but I'm scratching my head trying to figure out how to install the rear end. Would anyone mind posting a pic. of the rear end where the sway bar gets mounted? Thanks

Cloaked

iTrader: (15)

Kit Setup with the following changes.

AKA Grid Irons on all four corners.
32.5wt in Front Shocks
30wt in the Rears.
Full battery pack pushed all the way back.
10g Weight on top of the servo.

Im loving my 22SCT on the exact same track conditions as yours, with a 10.5T motor I am Wheelieing down the main straight yes I have that much grip, its fantastic that a near stock setup took 2.5 second avg off of my lap time over my FT SC10.

Losi57

The metal piece with the two hole in it that came with the sway bar kit gets screwed into the chassis just in front of the rear shock tower with the grooves for the sway bar facing up.Then put the 2 small screws thru the cone washer and screw them in to lock the sway bar in.Im sure you figured out where the two sway links get screwed into the a arms? Sorry dont have a camera with me.Hope this helps.

Adonis_mp

iTrader: (9)

Here's a nubs question, when measuring front ride height do you measure the very front of the chassi or the lowest part of the chassis?

ScottKelly911

iTrader: (9)

Proffesor, I agree with you about thinking the trick to running mm is weight distribution. Have you tried running a shorty pack as far rearward as it'll go or maybe run 1 foam behind the battery? I have a feeling this will give you a little more rear weight bias to give you better forward grip. This is totally just speculation on my part, so take it with a grain of salt but it's such an easy thing to try out, that it can't hurt. BTW, I'm running a shorty pack almost as far forward as it'll go while running rear motor so by me running it all the way forward and you running it all the way rearward, it might put us at similar weight biases.
Don't know that this pic really helps you but maybe it will
under the low point of the chassis right behind where the skid plate clips in, just rearward of the kickup. Here's a great video that shows how to check ride height on a 22 based vehicle because of the two different kicks (1 in front and 1 in rear)

+ YouTube Video

NPETRO

iTrader: (5)

Thanks ScottKelly911 & Losi57, I followed the diagram and used the gold rear swaybar....have not tested the swaybars on the track yet, but boy does it take out alot of the chassis roll. I'm sure my chassis will be better planted, as before the chassis would roll too much in high speed turns.