Originally Posted by ScottKelly911

Here's my Shorty in my truck, I'm running high grip indoor clay and running the shorty forward as you can see in this pic.


I'm actually going to try something next week and I'll report back. Don't tell the TLR guys this, shhhhh but I'm going to rebuild my diff with the AE Parts (already running the internal diff parts like the screw, the nut, the spring and thrust washers) But I'm going to ditch the Avid slipper (it's been pretty good actually, but I'm looking for something else just to try) in favor of the SC10 4x4 FT VTS Slipper system http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Conversion-Set. I'll have to use an AE spur, but I'm not worried about that lol I've been running an AE spur on my 22T/SC conversion since i first built it. I'll report back once it's up and running.


Hopefully the sway bars will help that. But, I have a fix for body roll that's not associated with the suspension. I commissioned SNR to make me some braces that tie the body posts together. Look for my next post to have lots of pix of it! But I want to give that a separate post. It definitely lessened the amount of body roll though.

Looks great! The only thing I worry is that with the big cut outs on the sides of the bed, that looks to be asking for cracking. Be sure to really reinforce your body before running it.

Looks awesome easye!

Originally Posted by ScottKelly911

Now that the TLR 22sct has been out a little while, are there any Running changes that you'd like to see for our beloved truck? Me personally, I like to use the wheel disc's in the rear, unfortunately, I've lost the rear wheel twice (once in a race). This is because they don't mount to anything, the nut just screws onto it and holds it firmly against the wheel. In this day and age of high power/low turn brushless motors and lipo batteries, even cranked down, they slip against the wheel and slowly back the nut off of the axle. I'd like to see new discs come out that use the same screw system as the Beadlock rings, maybe even clear Lexan ones that mount from the inside of the wheel. Anyone agree or have any other things they'd like to see running changes on? This is meant to bring out new ideas, not a complaint section, so please if you have criticism, be tactful about it, this will benefit ALL of us in the long run

Originally Posted by dbracn

I see some setups that run buggy white springs rear...Why do the setups call for a buggy rear spring instead of the truck? Looking at the chart, they are the same rate, does it have to do with progression? Also what would i notice running the buggy vs truck springs?

Thanks,

Dave

Originally Posted by dbracn

I see some setups that run buggy white springs rear...Why do the setups call for a buggy rear spring instead of the truck? Looking at the chart, they are the same rate, does it have to do with progression? Also what would i notice running the buggy vs truck springs?

Thanks,

Dave

Originally Posted by ScottKelly911

I just wanted to share with everyone a new part that'll be available immediately. I noticed there's quite a bit of flexibility on the body mounts and thought that there should be a brace to link the two body posts together on each body mount. I've been running one made of Carbon Fiber made by SNRGraphite.com on my SC10 Body mount on my 22SCT conversion for quite some time. But now that I'm running my Factory TLR 22SCT, I felt I needed one for both front and rear. After seeing Tylor's (Member Weavty1) pic of Dustin Evans car that had one put in place in the rear mount, I knew I was not alone in that thinking. I commissioned Steve at SNR Graphite to make me braces for both the front and rear. The following pix are the result. I want to preface this, I do not work for him, I am not sponsored by him. I'm just a fellow racer who has used his products and in the past and helped him in developing a few parts in the past as some of you may remember from the SCTE. They're not listed on his site yet, but they ARE available as of now. Price is $17.99 for either the Front or Rear braces or you can get the pair for $29.99. Be sure to CA glue the edges just as you would with ANY Carbon Fiber product. These are nice and thick and really tie the posts together. Again, I know I sound like a salesmen, I'm not. I get NOTHING out of his sales, I'm just a happy customer that turned into a friend of his. To my knowledge nobody else has these for sale yet. If anyone has any questions, I'll be happy to answer them based on my experience with them. I ran them for the first time today and they definitely made a noticeable difference in body roll. Once the Sway bars come out, I think my truck will stay pretty flat through the turns.
















Edit: They fit VERY snug and need to be pressed pretty firmly to get them down the post, no further measures are needed to make them stay in place.

Originally Posted by NPETRO

I was using white buggy rear springs, and yesterday I swapped them out for the truck springs (white). To get proper ride height the collars had to really compress the buggy springs, alot, which made the rear feel a little more stiff than that of the truck springs. I have not run it yet using the truck springs, once I do I'll let you know how it feels.

Originally Posted by Jimmy Lauri

Scott, thanks for the post on the SNR Graphite body post stiffeners. I placed my order! Jimmy

Originally Posted by GVizzle

For you guys that like the dish, get the new DE wheels.

Originally Posted by Cloaked

Snapped my Diff bolt.... bugger.

Still too loose for my liking, may try a gear diff.

Originally Posted by Pete Martinez

i noticed u run bar codes rear and pressure points fronts does it comm the steering down or is the your preferred chose of tires.

Originally Posted by ScottKelly911

You're welcome, I'm glad to hear it!

yeah, I might do that. The one thing that I liked about using the discs was that I could run the yellow wheel with black discs so it still looked similar to my fronts that I run the beadlock ring with. But performance is more important than looks anyway, but if you could have both, why not


I've gone to using the Associated diff bolt, nut, spring and thrust washers. Try that out first before going to the gear diff. Part Number ASC7677 http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...al-Rebuild-Kit


Hi Pete, yeah I like how the Pressure Points still have ton of steering (indoor high bight clay track) but they seem more predictable and easier to drive than when I tried running Barcodes up front.