rustyus

iTrader: (1)

Shock oil, ramp approach, lip of jump, body, throttle control...lots of possibilities. I recently had a day at the track with headwinds kicking up...I was outside of course. Having two SC10 platforms to run, each with a different body, gave me a chance to compare. One SC10, with stock Contender body and no vent holes, flew like doo doo. The other SC10 with Pro-Line EVO SC body gave me much better attitude during flight. Those vents on the EVO body helped immensely. I will confess, running outdoors is a gamble. At times no amount of body venting, or throttle control will help when a big breeze comes at your ride...hang on and hope for the best.

FastGT94

iTrader: (1)

masoncwright

Thank you for the ballast advice. I will try with and without and report my average lap times on the High Traction clay track. I am not running Stock Class but that does make sense about removing weight. I always wondered why there was this big ballast weight at the same time trying to shave weight from every part you can. The only thought I had was that maybe stock class has a weight restriction like in pine wood racing, and that you wanted to be able to move the most amount of weight where you needed it most.

FastGT94

iTrader: (1)

On carpet (highest grip) I have the battery all the way forward and 1.5oz under the front tower. Seems to do ok. would love to have less weight but then it was kind of pushy in the turns.

rustyus

iTrader: (1)

I've seen all kinds of places where people would put added weight to their SC. The one that got me scratching my head was the added weight off of one guy's rear bumper. To me, that would have me thinking it would act like a pendulum, and kick your SC's rear end out more often than not. Like I said before, it's just a way of fine tuning. Different driving styles need different setups. For me, it's not that important, but I try and keep my stick on weights as low and centralized as possible.

BugleBoy10

iTrader: (11)

Is there a guide to weight tuning somewhere? Maybe it's just because this is my first SCT and I only had experience with buggies and stadium trucks before that, but my SC10 seems very sensitive to inputs. A tiny bit too much or too little throttle, or a tiny bit too early or too late, and the truck is slamming its tail or nose on the ground when landing.

a1

iTrader: (9)

I have never see a guide to weight tuning, had sc10 for 5 years. Best i can tell you is go to petitrc. Look up their setup pages on sc10. Find a similar track ,grip ,smooth, bumpy. Open up a couple of different set ups and compare where using weight. The great thing about sc10 is that there are tons of set up sheets. Sc10 . Folks usually like weight below tower, weight at triangles, my trucks have responded nicely to added weight

BugleBoy10

iTrader: (11)

I actually did that, copying Maifield's setup from this exact track as close as I could. It did make it a little more driveable than bone stock. Figured that's as good of a starting point as any, and will go from there. Thanks!

a1

iTrader: (9)

you got it right. Use it as a starting point make one change at a time. Alot of folks ,including me, think that the pros set up should work, and I never found one that did. They have a pros driving style and Im not a pro. Great starting point though but dont hesitate to change up. Heres a couple links to when setting up. Some are two wheel buggy but setup ideas should be pretty close.
RC10 B4 - Charlie Perez' Setup Hints
R/C Car Handling - An Introduction To Vehicle Dynamics
Indoor Tire Prep 101

BugleBoy10

iTrader: (11)

ok, so I shredded my idler last week (that was fun, picking bits of gear tooth out of the other gears) and was looking up why. Comments here and on other sites suggest the slipper was too tight. How do I tell how tight to set it? I put a new idler in and reassembled the tranny, and now I need to adjust the diff so it doesn't do that again.

rustyus

iTrader: (1)

First, when tightening down the tranny bolts, I make sure there is no unnecessary force needed to turn tranny by hand. I like to adjust the slipper clutch at the track/surface I'm running on. Or if my RC is clean, I'll adjust slipper in house; on the carpet for a great baseline setting...slipping for about 2' when pulling trigger to full throttle. This way, when I go to the track and get into some loose conditions, I can still induce some rear end fishtailing fun on my 2wd platforms.

You'll see some folk holding down both rear tires, and trying to get the front end lift off the ground when pulling the trigger full throttle. Not the best idea, especially for 2wd short course trucks as the front end is considerably heavier than a buggy, or stadium truck. Doing so puts too much unneeded stress on diffs/tranny. I push my RCs away from me, then yank on the throttle while listening for the slippage I want. The video below (@ 7:28) is basically how I always set my slipper clutch on all my RCs.

BugleBoy10

iTrader: (11)

Thanks. I did make sure the tranny could be turned easily by hand, although I was surprised at just how loose that required the screws to be. I'll be checking a few times when I get to the track to make sure they don't come out, and maybe picking up some purple Loctite. I'll see if I can get it to slip for about 2'. I should have expected that it was too tight from the factory with how easily it pulled wheelies. Thanks again!

BugleBoy10

iTrader: (11)

Another question: Does anyone else run DE Trinidad wheels? If so, what socket or nut driver do you use? I can't get any of mine to fit inside the recess of the wheel, except for the plastic one that came with the truck, and that's only if I push hard enough to squish the plastic down a little. Might try trimming it away a little.

rustyus

iTrader: (1)

I have not used DE wheels, but I have used a good ol' grinding wheel to trim down nut drivers. Dr. Emel and/or a bench grinder come in handy around the house, especially owning a lawnmower and such.

rustyus

iTrader: (1)

So, parts are drying up fast. The good stuff is gone, unless you want to pay dearly to have an essential part shipped/imported from different parts of the world. I am currently trying to extend the life of parts that I have for my SC10s. Finally got around to replacing a few dogbone pins on my CVA/CVDs.

I was going to go with a RC specific tool for removing 2.5mm pins, but was told, by the company, there was a greater risk of breaking the tool while trying to use it on T4/B4/SC10 3/32 (2.38mm) pins. I opted to use a lower cost motorcycle chain breaker for my first go around at removing pin. Worked real well. After receiving the chain breaker in the mail, and setting it up,I was able to press a worn out pin through the ball of the dogbone within 30 seconds.

Putting new pin in...I took a different approach. I placed the dogbone on top of 5/32 (or 4mm) socket, and used a hammer to tap new pin in.