Well if it is extremely bumpy 4 hole pistons might be the way to go.....

I just got the JConcepts sway bar kit for an indoor carpet track. They won't do you much good outside on a loose track.

Ok thanks are any of you guys running a outdoor dusty loose track if so how are y'all running your shocks and gearing ?

I'm running black grease in a gear diff
2 hole pistons , 27.5 front 25 rear blue springs front and rear .25-75 gearing Stock setup other than that

You will have to be more specific as there are 3 different 2 hole pistons. Also, it seems your oil might be a little light. Big bore, small bore?

Small bore stock pistons

Anyone mod the rear roll center?

i use 27.5 in the front and 22 in the rear for large outdoor tracks with ae oils. for my track im geared 28 p 75 s. this is with a 17.5 novak with no timing at all. i run no shock/ spacer things in my shocks at all. this way i can get as much drop as possible. arms leveled in the front. use bones level for the rear and i take first a lot when i race it. cant remember my shock postilion but i think im for the front im in the second hole on tower and outer hole on arm. for the rear i think im on the outter hole on the tower and outer hole on the arm. spring what ever came with the ft kit i think red front gray rear. with number 2 piston i think. truck hanldles great for my driving style which is a little on the power side in turns. but if you yank the trigger the back end will kick out easy.

So, in spite of having a chassis brace and not having too many hard crashes my chassis has cracked in the brace either side of the servo.

Is it likely to get worse, or now that it's broken maybe it'll just flex a bit there and not move along further?

Bleh.

Gear Suggestion...
I am running a Reedy Sonic 8.5T
Track is medium traction dusty, its a fairly big track more suitable for 1/8th. all turns are 90 and 180 no sweeping turns. has one long straight with a jump.
can you guys help me with a good starting point ?
Thanks

sounds like my local track. im running 87- 20 you can run87-21 just up to feel for you

83/19 with a small bump of endbell timing

Basically the same as what was stated above; but smaller spur, smaller pinion (less weight) and moves the motor forward a touch.

Yes you can, but it just depends on the your available traction.

The shaved brace/C hubs are rarely used on the SC10.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ll-center.html

Avids. They have a conversion table so you can compare the 2-hole units to their 4 hole pistons.

Yes, they are slightly better on rough tracks at slower speeds and still give good pack on the big stuff.

Of course you can make your own as well, but you'll need a numbered drill bit set. #61-80. If using AE stock pistons, start by adding 2 holes with a #63 bit and try it. They are looser in the bore than Avid, so you can use a slightly smaller hole.

If you're going to replace it, yes.

There's not a huge difference to be found unless you're running on high grip indoor surfaces.

The graphite is stronger, but will "pop" rather than distorting around the ballstud.

At absolute full compression, the tires may rub at the top.

However, the Proline Raptor shell isn't quite wide enough when running +3mm, Especially if you're using PL tires (they're wider/square shoulder makes it worse).

You have to have the body perfectly centered over the rear end. Mine barely touches and I run the body as low as possible. I had to open up the wheel arches in the rear a bit beyond the trim lines. Not a huge deal for the most part they don't touch.