I took a picture of my tackle box the other day. Not pictured is the shock oils that I bought.
http://distilleryimage4.s3.amazonaws...0a1f8afc_7.jpg

Since I will be replacing the rear brace, original part number is 9564. I see Associated has a graphite replacement 9565, would that be worth getting?

MMP/Tekin 10.5 Set Up
 

Anyone running this set up? Motor end bell comes new set at 12 degrees. Read that I should set motor end bell to 0 degrees and set timing via the field card. If so, what is the suggested timing and what affect will it have on my truck. Also read about setting the rpm range. Does not look like that is an option on the field card. Is it necessary? Again, what are the suggested rpm settings and their affect. Thanks all.

i hope this helps

How Are Motor & ESC Timing Different?

It's all about the timing. We don't mean your ability to hold a tune, or your rhythm over the back side doubles. This is about ESC and Motor Timing!

There are two types of “timing” when you are talking to a racer about their ESC and motor:

Motor Timing- the "Endbell" or static timing of the motor
ESC Timing- The ESC's electronic timing advance

MOTOR TIMING (Static Timing)

Motor timing is static, or mechanical in that it gets set based on the physical position of the sensors inside your motor. As you increase the timing of the motor, you are doing two basic things to the operational characteristics.

The motor's maximum RPM goes up
The motor's minimum RPM goes up as well

The maximum RPM increasing makes sense to most. More timing means more RPM. However, the confusion comes with the response of the motor's lower RPM and when this change happens. As you increase the timing of the motor, the RPM across the board tends to go up. Even the low-speed RPM. So your may feel an increase in “punch” from the motor as well. Often the same thing happens when you increase the pinion size. However, too much timing, or too much gearing, and this does not happen. You actually get a boggy feel. This feel is good way to know you've got something set up incorrectly as well. For the most part, a modern brushless motor won't suffer much bogging or lack of punch from proper gearing or timing increases. As you increase the timing, you are increasing the amount of power the motor is going to want to use “all” the time. This means it will run hotter and require close attention.

There is no ideal static timing. Some setups run great with lower timing and bigger gearing, other setups require lots of timing and very safe gearing. Static motor timing is more the RPM and temperature adjuster. The idea that it “adds power” is not really true. You do in fact “use” more power, but you do not really "make" more power. The motor only has so much power to give, moving the timing around simply shifts how the motor makes that power. More timing will give you power in the High RPM ranges, and require small pinions to keep the temperature of the motor in check. Some vehicles have limited gearing options, and the motor's timing can be used when gearing changes are not possible. Lowering the motor's timing is a great way to “tone them down” or "take off the edge". Most, if not all brushless motors, feel softer with less timing. The opposite of what average racers assume.

ESC TIMING (Electric Timing)

ESC electronic timing is the ability for the firing sequence of the motor controller to be altered, or advanced, to increase motor RPM. This can be done on the fly. The idea is that the racer gets the best of both worlds. A motor setup for optimal low timing, with a smaller pinion gear, and the ESC kicking in the boost to increase the motors RPM down the straight sections. The balance of efficiency and power can be reached a bit more directly. The motor can be tuned for ideal low speed, and the ESC will easily take care of the high speed. This can also be used when running mild motors on larger tracks. Slippery conditions may require a tame motor, but the size of the track needs the higher RPM of fast motors. Dynamic Timing Advance allows you to fine tune when and how your timing kicks in for the long straights while maintaining mild, low-to-medium speed throttle control from the mild motor!

SPEC RACING AND TIMING

If you have club raced you have likely raced stock or what is more commonly called Spec Class. These are fixed rules over the power plants of the cars. Depending on where you race, you may find some very complex rules in place to govern the classes. Most places require a certain turn of motor to be used for their stock/spec class, but that is all. Rules after that can be foggy, and motor timing adjustments, to the motor itself are typically always permitted. ESC timing however is another story. Be sure to check the track's rules for Spec Class, and the ESC technology they allow. It is common to find “Blinky” rules in place. This name is given to classes that run no ESC timing. The ESCs are not allowed to operate the motors with any advanced timing and have a special mode they operate in, and often “blink” a light to prove they are in the mode. Not all ESC's actually blink, but the name became catchy over the years!

Just for the record I don't use any timing at all on the motor or esc I don't see why it needed

The graphite piece is stiffer, its more rigid. Think a bit lighter. Its also more fragile, it will break easier will the old one might give more. Imo if you pretty good at staying of walls and keeping her of the lid the graphite one is nice to have.

thanks imrob.............very informative............still would be interesting to hear from tekin 10.5 users with mmp speed controls........would like to know their timing setups for the motor and speed control and the effect it had on their truck. do not want to miss anything that could possibly help me get faster lap times....... I am used to a 7.5 so thinking I might be able to handle a fired up 10.5. thanks again.

True that:nod::nod:

Get a castle link and do it via computer if you want to run timing. Leave the endbell alone, they set them at the factory for ideal power. If you add timing via the field card it puts timing in across the entire rpm range which is terribly inefficient as timing does not help low end grunt. Set the esc to 0 timing in smart sense mode and gear it so you can run at least 6 mins and still come off around 100°. Then with the castle link program switch to sensor only and play with cheat mode. A good start rpm would be about 4k and end at about 9-10k with 15° timing. If it still runs cool bump up the timing a little at a time.
These settings are a starting point it really needs to be dialed to your track and driving conditions.

vfrninja,

thanks for the info. called tekin and they suggested setting the motor to 0 degrees and use the esc to set timing,etc. I am running 21/84 pinion/spur ratio and will see how things run. Probably stay with smartsense mode and just use the card to start. Thanks again.

Well I kinda feel a bit dumb now after reading up on it, but I figured I'd come to the community for suggestions. I picked up a proline raptor/flotek body, I thought it was great, etc. I run the +3 wheels on my sc10, and they don't fit at all in the wheel wells.. has anyone else dealt with this, and how did you manage it. Also, Jconcepts all the way now, they just care more about racing it seems.

I went nuts with the lexan scissors and mounted the whole body a CM or so away from where the little indents suggested.... Was all I could do. I won't be buying any more proline bodies.

Well that's rather disappointing to hear :/. How far did you cut the wheel wells out? All the way to the shelf (flat top of the fender)?

A LOT... Give me about 18 hours and I'll post a pic.

Alright man, I appreciate that. But next time, Jconcepts all the way.