TLR5182- Front spring 3.5lb- $4.59
TLR5163- Rear spring 1.8lb- $4.59
TLR5095- Bottom cups- $7.29
TRA3768- Traxxas upper spring retainer-$2.79 x2
Total= $22.05 +shipping
Estimate from amainhobbies.com

TLR5162 Rear spring 2.0lbs $4.59, might be a good idea, I'm trying it out this weekend at my local track.

The Traxxes comes with bottoms, but are no good they will clog and hold dirt on your shock shaft which will dirty your shock fluid faster. The losi one are better because they have holes in the cup for dirt to drain out of.

Bearings
 

Check the link for sweet bearing kits by Boca Bearings for the SC10 smoother roll means less friction and equals reduced heat and faster lap times!!!

http://www.bocabearings.com/search.a...202WD&Feature=

-----> :tire::tire::tire:

I'm guessing you are talking about using the blue FT hardware that comes with the truck? The aluminum eats away at the plastic as it wears doubling the slop in the shock.

I got some great advice from the co owner of our local track. 26+ years in rc and a big AE guy. He is also fast to point out AE short comings. When I bought my new FT he told me this parts list to make shock mounts stay tight for a long time. In your case you will need the following.

FT shock end #1777
Shock end GT #7660 you will need (2)
Shock bushings #6473
New shock caps #6443

Take the GT steel swivel balls and put them in the FT plastic shock ends. You could just use the GT end but the plastic is softer and the FT ends have extra material around where the swivel goes. Use plastic shock bushings and new bleeder caps and you will have a pretty tight shock mount. Since I use BB springs I have to use additional washers/nuts to get proper spacing.

My truck is a little over 3 months old now, I race a minimum of once a week. I swear the setup is damn near as tight as the day I put it together. The FT blingy blue hardware is pretty to look at, but does not last long at all. The dusty and messy track conditions will make it wear even faster than a nice clay track setup.

Has anyone tried to put the 4x4 VTS slipper clutch on the SC10?

I will try those out!! Thanks. I actually have all those items, but in two's. I have an old GT laying around still. :p

Its really over kill and unneeded additional rotating mass. Just use the vented slipper plates, high torque 4x4 pad on the inside, standard high torque on the outside, and compress the spring with pliers. This setup works from mod to stock.

Yes and works amazing! Its super consistent running mod at TRCR Cody. Well worth the $$.

Kody

I have a new part for AE shocks that works well. Its a bushing kit that replaces the stock shock bushing with a CNC machined bushing that guides the shock shaft correctly. Stock shock bushing has over .030 clearance between it and the shock shaft so this leaves the orings to do all the work of a bushing. My bushings have a .002 clearance and are machined from a Ultra slick material. We have found that the car is more consistant and seals last longer as they do not have to hold the side to side movement of the shock shaft. Shock oil stays cleaner also.

www.factoryone-rc.com Sorry for the self promotion but im just a little guy in a big fish world...LOL

i have a question for you guys out there, i want to make my truck a little more responsive in turns and take away some of the body roll. i seen a few guys at my track and they are runing the sway bars and i have drove some of them and they felt planted and responsive in the turns and take away the body roll. i want my truck to feel the same but minus the sway bars, so im wondering if i could just add limiters in my shocks to get ther same effect and how many should i add. i have 5 in the front and 2 in the rear right, please a little help you guys

Simplest solution, spend the 5 to 10$ and get the sway bar. If you like how their trucks run, why not get one? I dont understand the point

i can get the rears but idk how in the devil how to make the fronts and the fast guys arent there often enough to show me lol

What bumper are you running right now on the front?

If you are running the RPM bumper, you can do the mod found here: http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...f-road-10.html I believe it is the second post on the last page

It will actually work with either bumper. The sway bar mounts to the front shock tower and uses the holes intended for the T4.1 body posts. I will have to update the thread asap. Works great and only costs about $15 for the whole setup.

Finally got a new Body. Paint was done by Trackside Paintz.
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...z_Method-2.jpg