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-   -   SC10 Thread Part 2 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/632899-sc10-thread-part-2-a.html)

J_Bone 06-23-2012 12:48 AM


Originally Posted by Jeckler (Post 10893109)
Yea, I'm waiting for an overtray and Flotek body before coming back out. :)

Yeah, they get a little dirty if you are one of the first ones out after watering.
I might be running my son's RS body this weekend. After the chassis broke, the body is toast as well.

imrob 06-23-2012 06:08 AM


Originally Posted by drolmaeye (Post 10892864)
Here is the link for the avid springs:

http://www.avidrc.com/product/19/springs/

While you are there, check out the site, the format and products are definitely easy on the eyes. You will need to get different shock spring retainers; check earlier posts (page or two back) for options (including Avid).

Yes, I made my shocks as instructed in the manual. I think 1/10 scale shocks typically have no bladder and zero rebound, but a more experienced rc'er can correct me.

Make sure your spring retainers are on correctly. They should slide over the eyelet with a nice sliding fit and hold the spring quite reliably. Maybe you have them upside down?

Regarding the horn, were you using the one as instructed by the manual? There is maybe a little aluminum ring that keeps the plastic gear in tact. I am not aware of an aluminum horn, but with something like the sc10, chances are there's an aluminum anything somewhere. Maybe someone else will point you there.

Hope your wife enjoys it.

yes i did it all by the manual. and it the stock horn that came in the box it was just bad. Thanks for the link i might try there bearings too. Seem you have to upgrade the whole truck to avid to use there springs. but i guess it might be worth it ill she how it handlels for her first.

drolmaeye 06-23-2012 06:20 AM


Originally Posted by imrob (Post 10893787)
. . . Thanks for the link i might try there bearings too. Seem you have to upgrade the whole truck to avid to use there springs. . . .

Check back a few pages, I think guys were saying they were using traxxas and tlr for the upper and lower spring cups (can also use Avid, but these other options are less expensive).

Yeah, I think Avid is good for bearings, buck a piece unless you want ceramic. Just select bearings, then kit, and use the drop down menu to select your ride. You can get a complete kit replacement for like 18 bucks.

I haven't put anything new on my SC10 for a long time, but I'm about two steps away from getting the Avid springs, just so she (my truck) knows I still care about her.

imrob 06-23-2012 08:10 AM

alumiun servo horn
 
so far for an aluminum servo hor the only one that i could find that use 4/40 is the losi. i have no idea if this will work yet or not but i might buy one and try it out and see. all the rest have a 3mill thread so unless there a conversion i dont know about to get the ball to work.. the losi might be best. im a little mad the ft team did not come with the 12mm hexes bummed out there so there like 3 or 5 more things to get now. do those avid hexes get a ride of all those shim for the rear tire or do you still need them?

gamedog1966 06-23-2012 08:55 AM

hey guys i have a lot of slop in one of my trucks in both front and rear end, should i just tear it down and rebuild them? are the castor blocks that are stock in the ft kit 30 deg? one truck has enough space to place one washer on the axle to set the height and the other truck dont have enough space for any, so how do i go about setting the axle height if i can place shims in there or can only use one?:confused:

beidle99 06-24-2012 08:38 AM

I'm sorry if this has been asked before but I couldn't find any info...for installing the ballast weight (part # 7488) whats the trick to reinstalling the arm mount? I can't get mine to go back far enough to get the screws back in. The mount seems to be hitting the weight.

gamedog1966 06-24-2012 09:30 AM


Originally Posted by beidle99 (Post 10897306)
I'm sorry if this has been asked before but I couldn't find any info...for installing the ballast weight (part # 7488) whats the trick to reinstalling the arm mount? I can't get mine to go back far enough to get the screws back in. The mount seems to be hitting the weight.

you have to make sure that you have the hinge pins going thru the holes on the arm mount, then you shouldnt have any probs man :nod:

drtdvl4 06-24-2012 09:54 AM

Avid lower cups are now available. I was ready to buy a complete Avid setup, but they are still out of rear springs! :mad:

beidle99 06-24-2012 09:55 AM


Originally Posted by gamedog1966 (Post 10897492)
you have to make sure that you have the hinge pins going thru the holes on the arm mount, then you shouldnt have any probs man :nod:

I got it, a small piece of flashing was blocking the pin from going all the way in.

Jeckler 06-24-2012 10:19 AM


Originally Posted by imrob (Post 10894116)
so far for an aluminum servo hor the only one that i could find that use 4/40 is the losi. i have no idea if this will work yet or not but i might buy one and try it out and see. all the rest have a 3mill thread so unless there a conversion i dont know about to get the ball to work.. the losi might be best.

Why not drill the horn for the ball stud, and use a nut? Of course, you'd have to make sure it'd clear the top plate. And that the ball stud/cup clears the servo too.

Cravin 06-24-2012 11:40 AM

The Losi horn works great.

J_Bone 06-24-2012 11:45 AM


Originally Posted by gamedog1966 (Post 10894243)
hey guys i have a lot of slop in one of my trucks in both front and rear end, should i just tear it down and rebuild them? are the castor blocks that are stock in the ft kit 30 deg? one truck has enough space to place one washer on the axle to set the height and the other truck dont have enough space for any, so how do i go about setting the axle height if i can place shims in there or can only use one?:confused:

My front was sloppy too. I went ahead and shimmed the top of the steering block to get rid of the slop since I don't want to rebuild everything every 2-3 months. I'll try and prolong it if I can. Some things you might not, but if I can I will. What drives me nuts is the plastic shock caps and shock ends. They wear out fast! I'm on my 3rd set this year. I've noticed most people just drive with them sloppy. So I'm going to do that as well and see.


Originally Posted by Jeckler (Post 10897629)
Why not drill the horn for the ball stud, and use a nut? Of course, you'd have to make sure it'd clear the top plate. And that the ball stud/cup clears the servo too.

Racer Edge servo horns are metric too. I got one thinking I can just throw it on at the track. Wrong..Had to borrow a stock plastic one at the track. I was thinking of drilling it out as well. Looks like there's enough room to use a nut on the back side. Just haven't gotten around to it. Been spending too much time rebuilding my truck and T4.:mad:

Micah123 06-24-2012 12:12 PM

FT Update??????????
 
Wondering if anyone knows when Associated plans on updating the FT SC10 with hexes, big bore shocks, etc.

EvanAZ 06-24-2012 12:21 PM

Can someone please post the need parts to convert over to 12mm hex rims. I know the rears, mainly need the fronts. Wanting to convert all our SC10s over so the wheels all interchange with our others.

Thanks,
Vince

J_Bone 06-24-2012 12:34 PM


Originally Posted by Micah123 (Post 10897917)
Wondering if anyone knows when Associated plans on updating the FT SC10 with hexes, big bore shocks, etc.

Hexes...?? Don't think it's in the plans. But you never know.
Big bores. I've heard from different drivers with different times frames. From July of this year to March of 2013. :confused:


Originally Posted by EvanAZ (Post 10897945)
Can someone please post the need parts to convert over to 12mm hex rims. I know the rears, mainly need the fronts. Wanting to convert all our SC10s over so the wheels all interchange with our others.

Thanks,
Vince

Part # 9880, 9881, 9882 & 4449. Then run what ever hexes you want. Avid or Jconcepts.


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