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Originally Posted by RC_nooberton
(Post 11476477)
Hey guys I'm looking for a little more rear side bite especially when trying to get back on the throttle in the middle and towards the exit of the corner. I realize any suggestions you offer are guidelines only and depend on my individual set up. But generally speaking could it help to lean the rear shocks over a little? Currently they are inside hole on tower and inside on arm. Also the rear camber link is inside on the brace and on the b hole at the hub. I added 2 ball stud washers to the inside rear camber link already (previously was running with no washers) but haven't been to the track yet to test it out. I'm running the 0* hubs and have 3.0 inboard toe.
Thanks! |
Originally Posted by JsK
(Post 11476950)
More rear toe, try the 1deg hubs.
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How often do u guys clean ur motors? What do u use? Any tips? If u use electrical cleaner do u spray the bearings? If so what do u use to re lubricate them? Thanks
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Originally Posted by JsK
(Post 11472496)
Inline electronics placement. Still have to track test it,but according to the
scale it carries close to the same weight front to rear and left to right as the old setup. http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...-48-19-586.jpg |
Originally Posted by RC_nooberton
(Post 11476477)
Hey guys I'm looking for a little more rear side bite especially when trying to get back on the throttle in the middle and towards the exit of the corner. I realize any suggestions you offer are guidelines only and depend on my individual set up. But generally speaking could it help to lean the rear shocks over a little? Currently they are inside hole on tower and inside on arm. Also the rear camber link is inside on the brace and on the b hole at the hub. I added 2 ball stud washers to the inside rear camber link already (previously was running with no washers) but haven't been to the track yet to test it out. I'm running the 0* hubs and have 3.0 inboard toe.
Thanks! I'm new but have researched a bunch...also camber works. I was having huge traction problems...on my trucks it was using the wrong tires and my buggie had tooo much throttle so I lowered it by half and no more spin outs |
Originally Posted by i am cornholio
(Post 11460435)
lol..u hardly crash?? come on dave..anways..must have been a bad batch..i have had these for over a year..and if you know me..im not easy on things..never broke mine..and probably well over 200 packs thru them..
Any one know if a Blitz, Losi or Traxxas front spindel/axle combo will fit on the sc10's? Otherwise I will have to switch brands. I can't even finish a qualifier with this truck. |
Originally Posted by J_Fitz
(Post 11477769)
I am breaking these axles left and right. I switched to stock solid axle and I had zero issues. Of course I had to borrow tires all day. I'm fed up with the poor materials these are made from.
Any one know if a Blitz, Losi or Traxxas front spindel/axle combo will fit on the sc10's? Otherwise I will have to switch brands. I can't even finish a qualifier with this truck. |
Originally Posted by njnewc
(Post 11477490)
How often do u guys clean ur motors? What do u use? Any tips? If u use electrical cleaner do u spray the bearings? If so what do u use to re lubricate them? Thanks
For brushed Spray the motor out with motor spray from your Hobby shop and then let it dry out and re lube the bearings with preferably bearing oil or 3 way oil will work too. |
Brushless
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Originally Posted by njnewc
(Post 11478080)
Brushless
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Originally Posted by Rawwolf
(Post 11478029)
I have seen all sorts of parts break on the SC10. Saw 2 chassis break tonight, one at the front and one at the rear. I have broke rear axles, rear drive pins, both front and rear arms, rear chassis plate, Shock bolts, front c-hubs, Steering bellcranks and inner rear ball stud. I am wondering if you got a bad batch of axles. Were all of them bought from the same place(a-main/LHS)? I have bought 4 sets of front axles and have never had a problem with any of them. I have ran both the plastic AE hexes and the clamping JC hexes. What wheels are you running? I have only run regular offset. Are you running the +3 rims? Hate to see you switch brands over this.
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Do the Avid hex conversion. You won't be sorry. :)
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Hey all, I'm new to the SC10FT. I got one last week, basically built it on Friday, raced it today and did pretty good, ending up winning out of a field of about 20 at a club race, not too shabby. :D
I'm running more or less the box setup with the Avid hex conversion, Triad slipper, steering rack and 12mm spring conversion (spring cups and preload collars). So far I'm really impressed with how great it is to drive, I like it a lot more than my 4wd and basically put it up for sale, lol. Honestly, I just find it more fun to drive. I do have too much power, but it was all I had motor-wise and really didn't want to buy one, so I'm running an RSPro and a 6.5. I just have it turned way down and honestly it feels fine, it's not difficult to drive or anything. I need to experiment with weights (need to find some good weights to buy) and drag brake. Who's running an RSPro with drag brake and how much? it would give me a good starting point. If any of ya'll were on the fence about the Triad slipper, it's fantastic. I love the thing, so easy to drive. :) |
Originally Posted by Pulse_
(Post 11475896)
What 17mm hex conversion kit would you advice for the SC10?
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I would not recommend a 17mm hex conversion for the truck at all. It would be terrible to drive with big ol buggy tires.
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