R/C Tech Forums - SC10 Thread Part 2

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Quote:

Originally Posted by heavyjeffd (Post 11478382)

I would not recommend a 17mm hex conversion for the truck at all. It would be terrible to drive with big ol buggy tires.

? I weighted my wheels and a buggy wheel is only about 15g heavier (105g) than a SCT one (90g), that's not so much IMO

Just found this thread, it seems to work..
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...gy-wheels.html

I forgot to mention..Here is my SC10 converted to a SCB
http://img4.hostingpics.net/pics/583243SANY0066.jpg

I wanted a 1/8 2wd buggy and now I have it :lol:, so it would make sense to install 1/8 wheels too

can anyone tell me if the MIP09134 ball diff gear is a direct replacement for the factory team sc10 ball diff gear? (NOTE GEAR ONLY) I'm just looking for a stronger gear then factory, but cant find any information if the MIP gear is a direct bolt in to the stock diff...without replacing the entire unit with the MIP set up

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pulse_ (Post 11478405)

? I weighted my wheels and a buggy wheel is only about 15g heavier (105g) than a SCT one (90g), that's not so much IMO

No, 15g does not sound like much, until you realize it represents a weight increase of 17%.

Quote:

Originally Posted by parallelfish (Post 11478614)

No, 15g does not sound like much, until you realize it represents a weight increase of 17%.

Don't worry I did the calculation too :lol:

From the feedback I read the handling is better with buggy wheels, that's the only thing that counts for me ;) I want to use my SCB on a 1/8 scale track. But more than the added weight I care more about having too much slop with the hex conversion. I checked the reviews on amain about the STRC conversion and they are not good, no idea about the AKA kit

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rawwolf (Post 11478029)

I have seen all sorts of parts break on the SC10. Saw 2 chassis break tonight, one at the front and one at the rear. I have broke rear axles, rear drive pins, both front and rear arms, rear chassis plate, Shock bolts, front c-hubs, Steering bellcranks and inner rear ball stud. I am wondering if you got a bad batch of axles. Were all of them bought from the same place(a-main/LHS)? I have bought 4 sets of front axles and have never had a problem with any of them. I have ran both the plastic AE hexes and the clamping JC hexes. What wheels are you running? I have only run regular offset. Are you running the +3 rims? Hate to see you switch brands over this.

I am running the Avid hexes with Avid +3mm Sabertooth wheels. I did buy the axles all from the same place. I actually bought 3 more packages. Thinking about trying to harden them myself. It's really ticking me off because I bought all hex wheels and I can't even find regular bearing hub wheels for the front that have the +3mm.

In my opinion the truck is 3mm too narrow so if I can't figure it out, I will be forced to get something else. I run indoor, tacky clay track and I traction roll like a mother. I have to really drive slow with stock offset wheels. No fun at all.

Drive shaft problems? Try these...I have had no problems with these upgrade axles.
http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...product_id=732

They're talking about the front hex axle. But I've been eyeing the STRC rear universals as well. I've been running MIP for a while now and the drive pins eventually get sloppy and slip out. There's not much you can do about that from what I've seen. A firmer press fit would be better.

What springs are u guys using for the big bores? I know you guys have been testing. I making the purchase today and I want a good base setup. Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by njnewc (Post 11479073)

What springs are u guys using for the big bores? I know you guys have been testing. I making the purchase today and I want a good base setup. Thanks.

Blue up front and white in the rear.

I think part of it is people are over tightening the wheel nuts. They don't need to be nearly as tight as I see some people putting them on if you are using nylock nuts.

are you running the plastic or alum hexes? I think the alum hexes might help support the axles better.

Avid hexes. I always run clamping hexes, they reduce a lot of stress on the axle pin.

Contrary to popular belief, the wheel nuts do not need to be white knuckle tight. :)

when my axle broke, the hex was not tightened. the screw was stripped out. so i think the bad hex was my issue. i use nylon hex nuts and never crank on them. i know people that use the serrated flanged like to crank them down.

That doesn't even make sense. If you use a serrated nut it can be run even looser since they bite. People are weird. :D

I run the really heavy duty nylocks that I got from Avid, they don't come loose for anything.

Quote:

Originally Posted by njnewc (Post 11479073)

What springs are u guys using for the big bores? I know you guys have been testing. I making the purchase today and I want a good base setup. Thanks.

Avid red's front and rear.

I don't tighten my nuts any more than I do when I run the solid axle with bearing wheels. Plus the rear axle is the same diameter so there's gotta be something wrong with the materials on the front axles.