I have tried the 0, .5 and 1.5 hubs. they all didnt no much.

maybe the driving style of the sc10 just dosent fit your style? These things have so much roll and you can soften them up and seems like traction is pretty decent,even on my kids rtr,i just softened the suspnsion up and hes running stocker tires and still hooks up ok when driving it in the dirt lot.

Stiffer 10mm front spring
 

I am mainly racing at indoor tile/carpet tracks which are very smooth and have very high traction. I am currently running the standard 10mm shocks with red spring on the front and either silver or blue on the rear.

After comprehensive testing with different setups and comparing my SC10 to the Durango DESC210R's on the track I have concluded that the red spring in the front is still to soft. Since it's the stiffest Associated 10mm spring available, I need look for something else.

- Does other manufacters have compatible springs for the standard 10mm shocks? Kyosho, Losi, etc?

I noticed that for the new AE 12mm bigbore shocks there are stiffer springs available than the red. However, I am reluctant to spend 100+ USD on just shock kits and another 30 USD for springs when you can get new car with bigbores (Durango, TLR) +/- 300 USD.

Misca, what are you trying to accomplish. Is the truck not steering, not enough traction in the rear, what? I have my SC10 dialed on many surfaces. I have raced carpet as well. I don't think that the red springs are the issue. In fact I used to run red in the rear and blue in front so your whole set-up matters. If you could provide front and rear springs and oil, shock positions, weight balance front to rear, tires, and what problem you want to fix.

On high traction surfaces I usually like less toe, stiffer rear than front with a little more weigh up front. This provides the best steering and minimizes traction rolling. I have even tested the sway bars which can help get more steering and reduce traction rolling.

SO now that the B4.2 and T4.2 have been released I am expecting a SC10.2 as well. What would you expect in a SC10.2? I hope to see:

1) Same front and rear towers as the T4.2 and SC10B
2) Big Bore shocks
3) FT rear hubs
4) Aluminum 12mm hexs
5) FT steering bellcrank
6) SC10B front arms
7) VTS Slipper

I would also like to see the RS reciever box, new body mount designs and even a new rear bumper. Does anyone have any information about a SC10.2?

It will be a t4 with a longer chassis

you can just convert the 10mm shocks to use 12mm springs. We were doing that long before the BB shocks came out.

+1 I've done this, but ended up switching back over to the 10mm springs.

guys ,how you set-up the shock "rebound" ,please any input here ,mainly racing carpet ,bumpy with grass track....

I normally run my shocks emulsion style with no rebound. This seems to be the most consistent for me. I can then select the spring for the track. I would recommend that you go to the AE Youtube site and find the shock rebuild video there.

I dont understand something. Why do you need big bores on a 2wd Corr truck.
The standard Factory team shocks were fine. Already have another type of shock to mess with. I have the older factory team truck without the big bores.

From my experience with bb on the sc10 it's Made the truck a lot better,it dosent bounce at all if you flat land and the whole truck is that much smoother.trust me on a bigger truck like this it's a big improvment

Is there a benefit for any of the steering blocks, castor blocks, etc. to change from nylon/plastic to aluminum? If so, which ones and what are the benefits?
I have the SC10RS RTR.

Maybe I can run my current Factory Team truck in stock class.
I put my Novak 17.5 system in it. I buy the new truck to run in MODIFIED.
That's what the BIG BORES should be in handy for, is mod class.

I just picked up a set of HD aluminum castor blocks from Integy for my SC10FT just because there are five camber link mounting options.