he bought it used, it already needs a diff rebuild to be done by him. One of the things I would suggest for anyone buying something used. And how new is newly? It was newly rebuilt last night or newly rebuilt 3 years ago?

I have a older rtr sc10 and want to upgrade the slipper clutch with the Associated 7486 FT-Factory Team V2 Slipper Spring & Washer. Do i need to use the v slipper hub as well, or can i just use the rtr hubs?
thx.

I'll be curious to see the responses for this as I'm in the same boat.

What avid springs are u guys running? I have all of the batch 2 springs. Thanks.

Yellow F/R is dialed for me.

Yes you need the new slipper hub because of the larger spring that is used. The V2 hub has a larger diameter where the spring sets on the hub than the rtr one. With that said get the VTS slipper used on the 4x4, the part number is 91175. The VTS slipper is more consistent by having more surface area to dissipate heat.

10.5 with 19/87 gearing.
I looked in the manual and 19/84 is probably wrong.
So im gonna go with 19/87 with a 10.5 Viper motor.
I should be able to get the motor in a week or so.

+1 but I am unsure if the v2 spring is the best. I think AE used the b44 spring with the light 1/10 cars and trucks.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...per-Spring-B44

Just got an SC10 factory team kit, ready built, second hand. All seems in good order. I'm new to the hobby and also have a blitz (which my 8yo son uses)

Questions:

I'd like to run 12mm hexes front and rear AND I would like to gain a little extra offset and thus a little more width. What is the best way to do this? Is there a way to be able to use the same wheels on both the blitz and the sc10?

I would like to get some sort of protective cover to go over the chassis. Are the jconcepts plastics ones OK? Do they not cause the ESC to overheat through lack of air flow?

I took it to the track today and noticed it suffered parachuting way, way more than the blitz does. What is my best course of action to prevent this?

Any idea if the blitz skorpion body fits the sc10? (sue me, I love that body!)

I intend on switching out the suspension arms for RPM replacements. I also intend on getting an RPM chassis brace. Anything else I should get to improve the durability of the truck? I will be bashing with it, that's a given.

It's running a novak 8.5t brushless motor. I believe current gearing is stock. Any thoughts as to what size pinions I should consider trying to find an acceleration/top speed sweet spot? At the moment the ESC remains cool after a full 5800mah lipo pack. The motor I can hold my finger against for at least 10 seconds before it starts to get a little toasty, so I assume there is room to wiggle here.

Lastly, what are the spares I should keep on hand? What are the parts that break most often with these trucks? Unfortunately my local hobbyshop doesn't stock AE parts (they're pretty much traxxas and HPI only) and buying AE parts in Australia can be very expensive. More than twice as much as buying from the USA. So I really need to put in a fairly comprehensive spares order to make the price of postage worthwhile.

Thanks in advance for help and advice

Matt.

so any questions...... with the hexes you can get the +3mm SC10 wheels from AVID or JConcepts. For spares, I mainly go through ballstuds, ubraces and front a-arms. The RPM arms are pretty strong, but more flex. I have no idea on the HPI wheels, I assume no though. Also, no idea on the bodies.

Blitz bodies are wider than normal sc bodies. It will look strange on the sc10

I like to tune a ball diff. On my indoor SC10 it has a ball diff.
I put a gear diff on my outdoor SC10. I will get to experiment with differences.

How do you guys adjust your slipper? Not sure I like holding the rear tires and goosing the throttle method.

3.5 turns from the nut being flush is the best setting I found

Alright cool even when the pads have worn some? I just got so pissed yesterday cause I had my new rebuild diff so freakin smooth then I slipped it a bit adjusting the slipper holding the wheels and ruined that glass smoothness.